S7 countershaft running hot

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S7 countershaft running hot

Home Forums Manual machine tools S7 countershaft running hot

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  • #317414
    James Dickie
    Participant
      @jamesdickie20444

      I have an S7 that hasn't been used for a long time. It doesn't appear to have been ill treated, but it hasn't been looked after. In particular, it's been run with the belts rubbing against the guards.

      I've adjusted everything that I can, cleaned and lubricated. The countershaft pulley was not locked to the shaft, so that's been fixed. This afternoon I've replaced the knackered belts with new Fenner link belts.

      I decided to run the belts in for a bit, changing the countershaft one onto the different pulley steps every 5 minutes or so. I also regularly checked the oil levels.

      After a while I noticed that the countershaft was running much hotter at the motor side. The oil cup on that side was blowing bubbles out the top when I lifted the lid.

      Any advice on what to investigate here? Also, how do the oil cups fix into the countershaft support?

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      #13049
      James Dickie
      Participant
        @jamesdickie20444
        #317469
        Nick Hulme
        Participant
          @nickhulme30114

          I've been running my Super 7 hard for something close to 20 years and I've never seen bubbles from the countershaft oil cups.

          I've never checked temperatures though as it's always ru in a way I've assumed is normal.

          Every few months I feed the countershaft some oil with Tungsten Disulphide mixed in,

          – Nick

          #317492
          Nigel Bennett
          Participant
            @nigelbennett69913

            Molybdenum disulphide, surely? My S7 ran hot in this way a while back, but I just kept topping up the oil cup with steam oil and that seems to have cured the problem.

            #317501
            SillyOldDuffer
            Moderator
              @sillyoldduffer

              Just a suggestion but that type of bearing depends on having a slow flow of oil through it. It sounds as if something is stopping the flow. Dirt is a possibility, but if the lathe has been out of service for a long time the oil may have gummed up in the bearing and then cooked on to the bearing surface blocking the flow. In the worst case it may be necessary to replace the bearing; they can run metal to metal for a short time but wear is rapid once the surface is damaged.

              Got a book that describes several different types of oiler. Some just drip, others have one or two cocks to control the flow rate. Oil containers may be sealed, open, or pressurised. There are types that limit flow with a wick syphoning oil into the bearing, or a felt pad, or a needle that vibrates against the shaft. The idea is to deliver oil fast enough to to good without wasting it. If the rate controller goes wrong oil may not get through at all.

              I'd take the oiler and bearing apart and give the whole assembly a good clean. With luck the blockage will be obvious. I've found carburetor cleaner good for removing gummy and lacquered oil.

              Dave

              #317504
              KWIL
              Participant
                @kwil

                It looks like the sintered bronze bushes (Oilite) have become blocked with gummed oil, perhaps the wrong oil used over the years. Strip down and clean seems a good starting point. You do not have to removed the bushes, just dunk the whole swing arm [once removed] in cleaner one end at a time OR cut you lossses and press in some new bushes!

                #317553
                rtm54
                Participant
                  @rtm5414924

                  James, i have de same problem with my S7. When i fill up de oil cup and run the lathe in reverse, the oil will go into the bearing.

                  Jerry

                  #317705
                  James Dickie
                  Participant
                    @jamesdickie20444

                    Thanks for all the advice yes

                    KWIL, can I withdraw the entire countershaft/clutch unit from the swing arm without dismantling it all? From reading other clutch-related threads on here then I don't yet want to go down that route if I can avoid it.

                    James

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