Which lathe?

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 18/02/2016 11:52:04:

Posted by JA on 18/02/2016 11:40:13:

Posted by Brian John on 18/02/2016 06:04:43:

Do NOT buy an Optimum lathe !

I am sure I should be aware of the Optimum lathe but am not. It does not feature in Tony Griffiths's archives (www.lathe.co.uk). Is it a modern day Adept?

JA

.

Now justly infamous … based on Brian's experience.

MichaelG.

Brian's lathe seem to get on a lot better once some one noticed that the lead screw didn't line up with the bed. That had caused a lot of problems. How that happened is a mystery. Some chance that the lathe had been changed at one end of the lead screw or maybe the wrong part had been fitted. Personally I feel that anyone who sells them should give these lathes at least a bit of check over. On this one if the saddle was adjusted it was rather stiff in places as it was forcing the lead screw to bend – that resulted in so much force being used at the handle that the parts pushed out.

One of the problems with Chinese lathes is that they produce models to suite price brackets so an Opti Baby bears little resemblance to say an Opti Mini lathe and so it goes on up the range on all of them who ever makes them. Doesn't really matter what people think about them but at some price break industry are buying and using them. Another aspect of that is many models state hobby use, not suitable for continuous use etc. Hobby in practice can result in some one spending a high proportion of their free time using them. It seems some can take that.

One claim Opti make on one model is that they do season the bed. Unique as far as I am aware. They also make statements about the bearings they use. It might turn out that an Opti mini lathes are fine. It might not. Who knows, no one until they actually buy one same with other brands. Same for the next model up etc but it's pretty clear that they do get industrial at some point well past what people might want to spend.

John

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[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

Nigel, my apologies I confused the power of the Triumph and Master lathes. Both nice machines to work.

[Martin 100Participant @martin100]

"Myford Super 7 (with gearbox and power cross feed), a Harrison M250/M300 or later at the right price and an equivalent Colchester."

A huge range there and no obvious reason why. If you have the space for anything bigger than a Myford then why wouldn't you choose it.

Many decades ago I was denigrated by a workmate for us choosing a Boxford rather than a Myford. At the time neither my father nor I could afford anything else. But the work that lathe took on over the years was way ahead of anything I could have ever ever handled on a Myford. A bigger lathe or a gapped bed that could have handled brake disc skimming would have been nice in the past but I can easily cope without.

After messing with changewheels for years I now find the gearbox I retrofitted essential, not for screwcutting but for quickly adjusting feedrates. Power longitudinal and cross feed is also a must have for me. Far better this doesn't have the potential to cause leadscrew wear as some implementations do (yes you Myford)

Another essential is a quick change toolpost (arc euro etc) . The 4 way toolpost that cost me a fortune back in the 1980's is really only fit for the bin. Horrible things designed by a masochist. The age of shimming tools long consigned to history. Same with the vertical milling attachment, for the Boxford it cost a lot of money, and it was used quite a bit for small jobs but it's never ever a substitute for a proper genuinely rigid milling machine.

So unless I was limited to a very tiny shed and model making a Myford in any form would never be on my list, the likes of the M250/300 would always be on the list.

 

 

Edited By Martin 100 on 18/02/2016 22:23:00

Edited By Martin 100 on 18/02/2016 22:27:06

[Martin WhittleParticipant @martinwhittle67411]

Posted by Roderick I started with an old Zyto because that's what came along.

I did the same. I did a fair bit of restoration on it 30 years ago, and it has had various tweaking since. Since I took this photo, it has had a quick change tool post installed – I must take some more photos! It does not usually look this clean.

I still keep it despite having fully expected to replace it when I got my Warco WM250; in fact I would not be without it!. I find it very useful, often when I don't wish (or I am to lazy) to change the chuck or other setup on the Warco. The chuck runout is (finally) also significantly better at around or under 0.001", so useful on smaller stuff (noting the maximum diameter up the spindle is 10mm, with 1MT fitting).

There is an impressive example on fleabay at the moment, ref 262286370917, updated complete with 3-phase variable speed drive.

Good luck with whatever you choose, although I doubt you will go for the Zyto!

Martin

[JAParticipant @ja]

To be honest Metric or Imperial should be a major question but is rarely answered or addressed.

Until someone, or most persons, makes a very firm decision to go Metric this will never be resolved. I feel that those who are designing models now should only consider Metric (and I am almost 70).

JA

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

If I remember correctly some / all Zyto's were made in Germany to save money and equipped with a change wheel cover marked made in good old GB, that part was.

John

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[area3fitterParticipant @area3fitter]

Again, thanks to all for the comments, they have all been very useful.

I did call Warco and spoke to a gentleman by the name of Roger whi I note has been mentioned in a number of posts. I too found him very helpful and knowledgeable. I will try and get to their open day in March as has been suggested by other posters. That means I will have to venture across the bridge into foreign climes!

Gareth

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