What mm (0.3 or 0.5mm) and what grade of pencil lead (HB, B, 2B etc)?

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

When I was in the drawing office, we had to scrape errors from film masters with a scalpel, re dress the surface with a glass fibre brush and ink in the changes. Some of the drawings looked like they had a bad case of vitiligo.

[Enough!Participant @enough]

Posted by Gordon W on 10/11/2015 09:48:21:

I would get clutch pencils with a 2mm dia. lead. As Clive says best to have different ones for different leads. Would suggest HB and 2B to start with. These clutch pencils are available on ebay, most have a point sharpener and eraser built in. For drawing a chisel point can be put on with a file.

I would agree but I'd get the proper sharpener to go with it – not rely on the built in. Also a block of EPS to stab it in after sharpening to get rid of the dust. Tap the point on a sheet before using it to slightly blunt the needle-sharp point (which will break in use anyway if you don't). For chisel points I personally used a piece of sandpaper.

I still have a number of these with different lead grades in them and a sharpener (or two) which I use at various times in the shop.

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

Its been many years since I was on a drawing board using clutch pencils with a 2mm lead and did hundreds (probably thousands) of drawings with them. Used to sharpen them regularly, almost after drawing every line. The special sharpener is a must have. (the built-in sharpener at the end of the pencil is useless)

Also used to revolve the pencil as I was drawing a line to get better detail. Later used the automatic pencils, found that they were quicker but did not produce as good a drawing. Computers and CAD made both of these redundant.

[John Smith 47Participant @johnsmith47]

Anyone tried one if these
"Self Sharpening" mechanical pencils.
Uni Kuru Toga Pencil M5-450T
**LINK**

I think the idea is that it rotates slightly after each stroke…

J

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

"When using a normal mechanical pencil at a typical writing angle, the lead point quickly becomes chisel-shaped. This leads to broader, less precise lines; and crumbling of the resulting sharp edge. The unique gear mechanism of the Kuru Toga rotates the lead every time it is touched to the paper, resulting in a clean cone-shaped tip which is sharp and resistant to breaking"

Hi John,

Have not used one of these pencils but this is why I rotate the pencil as I am drawing a line, so the lead wears evenly and produces a better line. Even with the Kuru pencil you would find that the lead is slightly chisel-shaped at the end of a line because it only rotates the lead each time that it touches the paper.

Paul.

Edited By Paul Lousick on 11/11/2015 20:59:25

[Bodgit Fixit and RunParticipant @bodgitfixitandrun]

Didn't have propelling pencils when I was an apprentice. We used H for fine lines and 2b for lining in. They had to have chiseled points though so always fine emery on hand. Prior to that it was probably chisels and mallets in stone.

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