Replacing a myford ml10 lathe chuck

[Jeremy Smith 2Participant @jeremysmith2]

I am in need of a new chuck for my myford ml10 lathe. Being relatively new to machining, I haven’t needed to outfit an aftermarket chuck to my lathe.

I was looking at purchasing this unit from amazon **LINK**

That being said, do I have to machine a backplate from scratch, or are they available to purchase? Which steps do I need to follow, to do this properly?

Could I reuse the backing plate which came off of the old burnard 100 mm chuck… or is it specific to burnerd?

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 14/06/2021 05:01:06

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 14/06/2021 05:06:28

[Jeremy Smith 2Participant @jeremysmith2]

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

I suppose the first question is – What was wrong with the Burnerd chuck ? Normally a superior quality to most other chucks.

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

Hi Jeremy

Your current chuck looks from the pictures to be an internally threaded chuck made specifically for the Myford 7and 10 lathes, so if you had to replace the chuck for a different backplate mounted type you would need to purchase a backplate from one of the suppliers. These are obtainable part machined with the spindle thread and register already done. If you look on the Lathes uk website there is a section on fitting chucks which explains very well.

Internally threaded chucks with integral backplates for Myfordsare available from places such as Rotagrip, who are a chuck specialists.

I would seek advice from the ML10 users on this forum before trying a 125mm chuck on your lathe, might be a bit big and heavy for the spindle and would increase the overhang from the bearings.

But first I would agree with Speedy builder5 that your existing chuck is of a good make and are robust, and wonder what the reason for replacing it is. Unless anything is obviously broken or strained (sometimes the scroll can be damaged by careless use) A good clean and lubricate can make a world of difference.

Dave

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

Jeremy

Further to my previous reply, just had a look in your album and saw the pictures of the chuck with apparently a jaw missing, is this correct? If this is the case as the chuck you have looks to be in fair condition, it's worth trying a wanted ad on this site and the Homeworkshop site. Rotagrip used to supply spare jaw sets but they were quite expensive, almost the price of a chuck.

 

Hope this helps

Dave

 

Edited By Dave Wootton on 14/06/2021 07:44:12

[Chris CrewParticipant @chriscrew66644]

I know there are many Sino-phobes when it comes to machines and tooling on here, but please let me recommend to you a San-Ou chuck if you intend to buy new. These chucks are accurate, supplied from within the UK and exceptionally economically priced. I bought an 8" 4-jaw self-centring chuck via a dealer on eBay which was so cheap I thought at first it was a scam. Another member of the MES to which I belong bought a smaller 'Myford' size chuck on my recommendation and he was equally delighted. I have now seen that they start as low as around £45.

You will have to fit a back-plate and you will need to take a lot if time and trouble to get the chuck nicely seated and adjusted upon fitting to achieve the most accurate results. I have always made my own back-plates for 'Myford' size chucks out of noggins of mild steel but I understand both CI castings and fully finished back-plates are available for Myford machines. You will need to face the back-plate and turn the register in situ on your machine.

I have never had any issue with buying Chinese but I know others do.

[Brian GParticipant @briang]

Hi Jeremy

I'm curious about your choice of a front-mount chuck. As the Myford has a screw thread you are unlikely to want to remove the chuck from the backplate whilst mounted on the lathe, so why choose a design that will require you to accurately drill three holes and tap them to suit the chuck?

A rear mounting chuck will already have three accurately tapped holes, and a simple paper template would be enough to position the three clearance holes you would need in the backplate. It also opens up more options when buying a chuck, although to be honest, I would agree with Chris about Sanou chucks.

Brian G

[JourneymanParticipant @journeyman]

A few observations:

• The chuck you link to is on Amazon.ca so shipping to UK is unlikely. It is also of Indian manufacture and ships from India. Worldwide shipping at present is chaotic so don't expect it any time soon.
• The price seems very high for an unknown make of chuck I am sure you can source something cheaper in the UK (assuming you are UK based).
• You query using the 'backplate' from the PB chuck, I don't think this is a backplate per say but part of the chuck, if you are referring the the item in the image above.
• If the problem is a missing jaw get a replacement set as suggested above.
• I notice in your album that you have what appears to be a brand new 'Chin Yu'  4-jaw chuck, if this fits the ML10 just use that. With a bit of practice it is almost as quick and just as accurate.

John

Edit: Typo & add a bit

Edited By Journeyman on 14/06/2021 10:33:02

[BizibilderParticipant @bizibilder]

Chronos sell a 100mm 3 jaw that will screw directly onto your lathe: HERE (usual disclaimer of course). This would save machining a backplate yourself which, as a newcomer, may be putting you off.

[Jeremy Smith 2Participant @jeremysmith2]

My bernard chuck had one tooth missing on one of the teeth…then another one broke, then another. This is all on the same tooth. Basically I dont want to replace the chuck, but need to due to damage. That, and I am in need of a replacement fairly quick here…go figure!

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

Hi Jeremy

That explains it. Myford integral threaded chucks like you already have are available from the likes of Rotagrip and i believe Chronos list them too, these will fit straight on with no machining.

If you don't mind turning the register on a part machined backplate I can recommend the very reasonably priced ones from ARC , very pleased with a chuck I bought from them, they supply backplates too.

Choice is dependent on your budget but all the above companies offer a good fast courier delivery.

Dave

[ianjParticipant @ians]

Hi Jeremy.

I have a set of OUTSIDE JAWS for sale listed in the classifieds on this site which will fit your Prat Bernerd 1588-10130 3 jaw chuck. Note these are OUTSIDE JAWS but will allow you to still use your chuck.

ian

[Jeremy Smith 2Participant @jeremysmith2]

Budget is pretty tight right now, which is why i was leaning towards an aftermarket unit.

Also, being located in canada is another concern, which Is why I wanted to purchase a unit off of amazon. With prime it would be here within a week.

I will check out those bernard jaws later today.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

That chuck you were interested on Amazon is a 5", is that ok with your lathe? Also, the chuck does not come with a backplate, so it will not be quick fit.

It would be worth checking out Chronos for a 125mm three jaw chuck, a 5" backplate,1 1/8" X 12 tpi and the cost of postage to Canada.

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/

Edited By old mart on 14/06/2021 19:41:48

[ianjParticipant @ians]

Hi again Jeremy. Photo of the jaws fitted to my 3 jaw chuck (same catalogue number as yours.) but Canada!!

[Jeremy Smith 2Participant @jeremysmith2]

Also, should i go with a 125 mm chuck, or a 100 mm chuck?

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

Just remember that any back plate mounted chuck will have a lot more over-hang than your existing internally threaded Bernard.

Robert G8RPI.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Standard chucks on ML7/S7 were 4" 3 jaw and 6" 4 jaw. ML10 is a slightly smaller lathe. I'd look for a screwed body 4", but importing to Canada might be an issue. Check with supplier before parting with cash

[Chris CrewParticipant @chriscrew66644]

I don't know, but I would find it difficult to believe that there are no importers of, or dealers in, Chinese or other manufacturer's chucks in Canada. If you elect for a Chinese made product, then I would suggest you could do no better than look out for a San Ou, especially if they are imported into Canada at the equivalent of UK prices. Also, I would say with the greatest of respect, that sometimes you just have to use your common sense when deciding what size of chuck you need or would be the most useful to you, 'newbie' or not. There will be many times when you will have to make a judgement as to how to tackle any job with individual factors coming into the decision making process such what equipment you have available etc. We all have different workshop facilities available to us, some are fortunate to be very well equipped after a lifetime of amassing tools and machines, whilst others like yourself are only just starting out. An aphorism I always bear in mind is, that in the privacy of your own workshop, there is no 'right' way or 'wrong' way to go about doing any job, there is only 'your' way. And you will never make a mistake, you will only learn lessons; many of mine are in my scrap box! Nobody is going to come round and fire you and you are not being tested on your level of skill. I think you will find that once you get really started you will have more common workshop sense than ever you thought you had and will succeed at most of the tasks you attempt. If it looks right and works right then it is right whichever way you got there so don't let 'Inspector Meticulous' tell you otherwise.

P.S. (In case you are not aware, Inspector Meticulous was a fictional character invented by the late LBSC, a major contributor to earlier Model Engineer magazines and the live steam hobby in general. He always criticised the writer's work and way of working but could never quite understand why everything turned out fine in the end)

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Chris Crew on 15/06/2021 12:35:41:

[…]

An aphorism I always bear in mind is, that in the privacy of your own workshop, there is no 'right' way or 'wrong' way to go about doing any job, there is only 'your' way. And you will never make a mistake, you will only learn lessons; […]

.

There is a lot of good sense in what you wrote, Chris … but I would just mention that crashing the Jaw[s] of an oversize chuck into the bed of an ML10 is an expensive way of learning a simple lesson.

Jeremy can, and should, work out the ‘safe working envelope’ before choosing/using his new chuck.

MichaelG.

[Chris CrewParticipant @chriscrew66644]

Michael, I have every respect for your opinion and point of view, but isn't this the very point at which 'common sense' should kick in? You can actually see if the chuck jaws are going to strike the bed or just pull the work round to check before you start the lathe. A simple judgement or two second check with a ruler will tell you what size chuck would be the most suitable, surely? I know there are a lot of people who now seem to expect to be told every single step of their lives these days and the Health & Safety brigade treats us all as if we are mentally retarded chimpanzees with a death wish as we go about our daily duties, but I am old enough to remember when a car manual informed you how to adjust points and set tappets, but now it is as likely to state,'do not drink the contents of this battery!'

Edited By Chris Crew on 15/06/2021 14:12:52

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Agreed, Chris … but I was making the point that Jeremy needs to be aware of that geometry when choosing his new chuck.

MichaelG.

.

Perhaps my remark would have been better made on his concurrent thread … but it seemed easier to respond to your post.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 15/06/2021 15:35:03

[Chris CrewParticipant @chriscrew66644]

Michael, and I sort of agree with you too. I am no 'exhibition standard' craftsman, I just always try to do my best, but I would give any 'newbie' the benefit of my limited experience and knowledge and encourage them in the hobby. I guess the point I was really trying to make was that manual lathe work, or any sort of machine shop work for that matter, is not a 'black art' and if you just sometimes stand back and appraise its requirements you will more than likely come up with a solution to any problem and identify any potential pitfalls yourself without having every little detail explained and confirmed. Good to chat with you, thanks.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Chris Crew on 15/06/2021 14:07:14:

… isn't this the very point at which 'common sense' should kick in? …

the Health & Safety brigade treats us all as if we are mentally retarded chimpanzees with a death wish as we go about our daily duties,…

Does common sense exist? I suggest it doesn't. People believe they have it, but surely 'common sense' is always the result of experience or education? Babies don't arrive in the world able to recognise all the dangers; they have to learn. And grown-ups often struggle when confronted with new challenges. We all need to learn the ropes.

In my experience failure to apply common sense never caused a workplace accident. Instead, expect ignorance, bad attitude, laziness, horse-play, tiredness, intoxication, illness, surprise, over-confidence, not reading the instructions, failing to follow the process, faulty process, training or maintenance, misunderstandings, arguments, incompetence, bad advice or work plan, and not recognising changed circumstances.

Never assume knowing your job and doing clever stuff is just common sense. Surely we're all better than that.

Dangerous and unfair to expect anything to be common sense to beginners, I think. We don't know what they don't know…

Dave

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