I must say that my experience seems to be contrary to all the above posts!
I powder coat everything that does not have to withstand heat and have not had any bad results, even in the long term. Even my machine covers, splash guards, etc are done so.
The key to success lies in the surface preparation, as with ALL painting methods, although powder coating is not a paint. Paint 'adheres' to the base material in two ways – mechanically, and chemically. If the surface is very smooth, like glass, the only possible reliable bond is a chemical one. Acid etch primers, for example, cause a chemical conversion at the contact layer, promoting the chemical bond – its more complex than that, but as this is about powder coating, I'll stop there..
Powder coating is a 'plastic' powder, flowed at its melting point, cured at around 70% of its melting point, and can only bond mechanically to the substrate.
This has to be clean, devoid of all oils, hydrocarbons, etc, fingerprints, etc. That is only one part – a truly clean, smooth, surface, does not provide a good bond to powder coats. The best way is to sand blast the surface, clean all dust with clean, DRY compressed air, and coat right away. I have made mild steel sheet metal covers, basically weather or environment 'wind and sun shields' for a solar powered electronic box that sits on a pole. These things are distributed along our north-west coast line, collecting data from Hyena and Lion collars, and are located between 50meters and 1km of the Atlantic ocean. Some have been there for 3 years now, with NO signs of coating delamination at all. It's all about surface prep.
Russ said it:
there are many different types of powder coat and like any paint job, the right powder, and the right surface prep, and proper curing are key to a proper job.
If you scratch the coating, through to the metal, post coating, then you invite trouble, but no more than if it were ordinary paint.
Joe
Edited By Joseph Noci 1 on 03/03/2020 07:29:33