Morse tapper collet release

[Piero FranchiParticipant @pierofranchi37209]

Morse taper collets in spindal

[Piero FranchiParticipant @pierofranchi37209]

Hi Guys

I am asking the question of "how well does a Morse taper 2 collet release in the spindle of a mill"

I usually use a Clarkson type chuck with collets in the Tom Senior mill.

as some of you might know, that can limit the hight of the work.

so I was thinking, as and when I had to, I could use a Morse tapper collet instead and do away with the Clarkson chuck.

my only concern is how easily it will release if tightened up properly for milling

I DON'T WISH TO, nor do I EVER smack the draw bar with a hammer to release the Clarkson chuck!!!!!

I have made a release type clamp, based on a ball joint splitter (not the hammer type) that I use when removing stuff from the spindle,

with the Morse taper collet fitting directly in the spindle, Ill have nothing to help with removal of said collet

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

If the draw bar is not tightened too much it should release with a few moderate taps. Many people come up with a scheme to retain the drawbar so that unscrewing it will push the collet out. The temptation to over tighten the drawbar is great because the collet and cutter moving can damage the job or even worse the spindle taper.

Mike

[TomfileryParticipant @tomfilery]

Piero,

I have an Axminster micromill which has an MT2 spindle and which I've owned for about 10 years. I found that milling cutters could pull out when just using the MT2 collets, so I bought a Clarkson chuck. First time I fitted it I had the devil's own job removing it. Like you, I was wary of using too much force to bash on the end of the drawbar.

In the end, I removed the drawbar and drilled out the top of the spindle to a suitable size (using a hand-held pistol drill) and tapped the top 30mm of the spindle. This allowed me to drop a length of 3/8" studding into the chuck and then apply pressure to that studding using a bolt fitted into the newly tapped thread. The bolt was M12 if I recall correctly.

This allowed the chuck to be released (with a loud bang) though not before the studding had been compressed into a wavy shape (showing how much force you can apply with a bolt).

In the case of my mill, the top of the spindle wasn't hardened – yours may well be, so check if you decide to do similar. So now if any fitting isn't released with a light tap, I can apply controlled force, via my M12 bolt.

Hope this helps.

Regards Tom

[Piero FranchiParticipant @pierofranchi37209]

 

 

I have a clamp system using the the drill chuck wedges that I place between the bottom of the spindle and the milling chuck.

 

done this way there is NO force being aplided to the spindle bearings.

its a little like a ball joint splitter as used on cars

Edited By Piero Franchi on 10/01/2018 11:20:25

[JonParticipant @jon]

You are assuming by smacking the the draw bar it has an affect on the bearings, not so. In drill mode push draw bar down, proves its not direct to bearings!

In any case the clobering on the drawbar is less than used in general use.
Undo from grollied up (no slipping) 1/2 rev a a quick sharp tap, it will unscrew. I do it about 12 times a day in as many minutes, easy.
Some MT collets will slip ie those from chester but never ever in 19 years had 27 from ARC slip, the only thing better is R8.

[OldironParticipant @oldiron]

Here is a link to similar topic. **LINK**

regards

[Author]

Posts