ml10 backgear

[brian inchParticipant @brianinch51828]

[brian inchParticipant @brianinch51828]

Hi.

I was woundering if there is some one who can help me. I’ve got a ml10 and can’t workout how the backgear works. When I engage the backgear it locks up and i can’t turn the chuck by hand. I don’t wont to turn the lathe on till I am sure this is right. I will be very grateful for any advice.

Thanks brian

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

Look at the large gear wheel on the main shaft, rotate shaft and you will see a hex. drive screw head on the chuck side of gear.

Get an allen key and shorten it so it will fit the hex head and undo it and pull upwards, and lock it up again.

Gear will now freewheel and you can engage the back gear.

 

Clive. pS lubricate the back gear shaft.

[Ian PorthouseParticipant @ianporthouse21513]

When the back gear is engaged, you will not be able to turn the chuck by hand. To check engagement I give a few pulls on the belt to check before starting the lathe.

[brian inchParticipant @brianinch51828]

thanks for your help

[brian inchParticipant @brianinch51828]

got the back gear working thank you for your help

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

Glad you worked it out Brian.

 

As an ML10 owner I have often wished for slipping cursors on the Lead screw and cross slide.

Has anyone ever done this on and ML10 or know of a source of info of doing it?

 

I have just modified the cross slide with the two thrust brgs and it has improved it no end.

I have also replaced the cross slde nut that had been mis-aligned for some reason and it was worn.

 

Clive

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Clive, have you checked the lead screw on the cross slide? A mate had similar thing with him Myford 7(something), He thought the nut was warn, but it was almost un warn, the thread on the lead screw had almost disappeared,. He was lucky, he went to the firm that had sold the lathe, and he got the parts at the price they were when they had the lathes in store, some where about $NZ5,(it’s a long time since they sold the last Myford). Ian S C

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi Clive

 

Please see “ML 10” in my photos

 

I was the happy owner of an ML10 for some years and, like you, felt the need of adjustable dials. Those for the cross slide and top slide I obtained commercially – the one for the top slide just a couple of years ago via ebay. The one on the lead screw I made from a piece of aluminium rod bored out to be a running fit on the end of the leadscrew and drilled, as you will see, to take a screw made from a piece of phosphor bronze hex rod such that it could be just nipped up to grip. The datum line is scribed on the bent piece of aluminium. The problem was engraving the 125 divisions around the circumference – the nearest I could get with the dividing equipment available was 124 divisions – I felt that I could live with that error!

I hope you have as much fun with your ML10 as I did with mine.

Regards

Norman

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

Ian, yes, the shaft is fine, it was the fact that the two screws holding the nut were loose and had been tightened up but it was biased and I could see wear on the side of the nut.. Its only Mazak or some such stuff anyway and would wear quickly.

This is much like the half nuts on the lead shaft and having to adjust that little socket head grub screw to get the contact correct.

 

Norman, I can see what you have done with the lead screw dial, looks OK.

My idea was to modify the dial with a slipping cursor but would need to destroy one to get one.

Could have used one today as I was fitting a new backplate to a chuck, all done now and all I have to do is center the chuck as its one of the type that can be adjusted with three cone screws around the outside.

At the moment its running .004 mm but I can get it better than that.

 

The cross slide collar I would like to do as it is sometimes awkward with a fixed collar.

I will look on Ebay and see if anything is suitable.

 

I have just completed a worden Tool and Cutter grinder using the ML10. It is possible but one is right at the extremeties of the machine on a few of the operations.

The tool holder base that is turned with a 15 deg. chamfer was done by centring on the faceplate and swinging by hand in a small arc, adding a cut every swing. Took me about three hours. My hands were sore even using a leather glove.

 

The Worden works fine and I have sharpened cutters up to 16mm shank dia.

It is surprising how much difference sharp cutters make when working.

 

Clive

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

What happened with the die cast nut was, some grit got inside and embedded its self,then it just ground the steel away. Its proberbly best to always change both , and start from new. Ian S C

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