Lathe Blowing Fuses

[ArtmonkeyParticipant @artmonkey]

Hi Guys

I am having a problem with the workshop lathe, a Warco GH1232VS. It blows the fuses on the incoming supply and tripps on its internal fuses. I have been happly using this machine for the last 3 years.

It is connected to a 13amp supply, and has a built in inverter for speed control.

The machine blows the fuse as soon as I turn on the wall switch.

I have checked for loose connections and found a disconnected wire, but I have a suspicion, its always been this way.

Does anyone have suggestions?

[ArtmonkeyParticipant @artmonkey]

[nigel jones 5Participant @nigeljones5]

I had a similar lathe do exactly the same – couldnt be repaired, needed new circuit board!

[ArtmonkeyParticipant @artmonkey]

Thanks fizzy

I will have a look at the inverter, and try to isolate its power supply. Then switch on the mains and see if the fuse trips sending the workshop into total darkness.

Its all an adventure

[Andrew StruthParticipant @andrewstruth32342]

I have a used CL300 Clarke lathe,it blows fuses EVERYTIME I get the cutting tool jammed.It not often I stress to point out ,but it’s annoying me to the point I’ve become over cautious when cutting.Any answers.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

What sort of size cuts are you taking, could simply be you are expecting too much of a hobby lathe

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Since the report is that the fuse blows as oon as the lathe is switched , it suggests that a short has developed during the preceding three years.

I would start by checking the plug, and then the cable, working my way towards the machine., possibly even a bit of loosewire that has found its way onto the control board (but possibly with fatal consequences ).

But that loose wire would have me worried.

Can Warco, or the manual (Wiring Diagram ) tell you where it should be located.?

Howard

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Old thread so best just answer todays question.

[Anonymous]

Posted by Andrew Struth on 13/07/2022 12:23:11:

I have a used CL300 Clarke lathe,it blows fuses EVERYTIME I get the cutting tool jammed.It not often I stress to point out ,but it’s annoying me to the point I’ve become over cautious when cutting.Any answers.

I had a similar experience with my WM16 lookalike mill. When it was imported to Canada the approval authority demanded a lower fuse rating than was fitted by the manufacturer and it was very touchy.

I wired up a new wall outlet with a resettable circuit breaker then fitted the original fuse back in the machine. Now if it gets a bit loaded, the CB flips and I'm not forever replacing fuses.

Edited By Peter Greene 🇨🇦 on 13/07/2022 21:57:14

[Tim HammondParticipant @timhammond72264]

I've had my Clarke CL300 lathe now for over 10 years; on the odd occasion that I stall it by being a bit heavy-handed, the amber "fault" light comes on and I reset it by simply moving the forward/reverse switch to "0" and then back to "forward". It has never blown a fuse since I've owned it. HTH.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Andrew Struth on 13/07/2022 12:23:11:

I have a used CL300 Clarke lathe,it blows fuses EVERYTIME I get the cutting tool jammed.It not often I stress to point out ,but it’s annoying me to the point I’ve become over cautious when cutting.Any answers.

Hard to judge from a distance or if something is wrong with the lathe. Possibly the motor is faulty but stalling puts a severe strain on the motor and electronics; blowing the fuse may be the best option! If the lathe blew fuses during normal cutting, I'd suspect a machine fault, but jamming the tool suggests something else is going on – material and/or operator causing overloads.

I learned to turn on a mini-lathe and found it had a sweet-spot between too light and too heavy cutting. Much depends on the material too. Are you using free-cutting metal or unknown scrap? My early learning was severely slowed because my scrap box happened to be full of difficult metal, and DIY store metal is nearly as bad. An unlucky start, followed by finding the lathe was much better than first thought!

Once I found mu mini-lathe's sweet-spot jamming the cutter and stalling became rare, usually due to mistakes. Certain operations are best avoided: parting off steel was too much for the lathe, and sticky Aluminium was risky too. Also threading under-power: easier to make a crank for the spindle and thread by hand. Make sure the gibs are adjusted tight, but not too tight, lock everything that can be locked, and minimise overhang from saddle to tool-tip to prevent movement. Dipping cutting edges are likely to dig-in.

Same sweet-spot principle applies to my current lathe. Although considerably more powerful and stiffer than a mini-lathe, I still drive it defensively. Roughing out: after making sure the cutter is good and at centre height, I set RPM and feed rate in the right zone for the material and diameter, then adjust depth of cut so the machine sounds as if it's noticeably working rather than idling, but not labouring.

Big lathes, and especially industrial machines, are less fussy about 'sweet-spots' than small ones, but they all work best driven within their design envelope. Mini-lathes aren't ultra-delicate, but they're hobby machines, not metal hacking bruisers.

Over cautious cutting is liable to rapidly blunt tools, so avoid doing it. I learned the dangers of 'pussy-footing' from Andrew Johnson of this forum, along with many improvements from other members. Very often forum advice has to be practised to get the best out of it, so persist.

With luck the lathe is OK,

Dave

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Remember when using the mini lathe that the motor is not particularly powerful, often on some versions 400 watts input power or maybe less. So you have less than 1/2 hp available..

You are not in 2.5 mm a side cuts and 0.5 mm per rev feed on steel, territory. That is for bigger, more rigid and powerful machines.

Stalling the machine regularly puts it at risk of damage to the motor and/or the control board, which can be an expensive pastime..

Basically, if it stalls, something is wrong with what it is being asked to do, and it is being overloaded.

Make sure that the tools are sharp,and mounted at centre height, and then use cuts and feed rates that are within the machine's capabilities.

(I think that it is a bit overcautious, but the manual for my C3 says that 0.25 mm cuts are for roughing! ).

Lots of folk do exceed such a maximum, but they work with care and know their machine.

Howard

[Bootlegger BlackyParticipant @bootleggerblacky]

Here in the UK. You can fit a “C curve” RCD.to your garage mains circuit instead of the “B curve” type. This option is more suitable for inductive loads such as Motors,Fluorescent lights etc.

google C curve RCD.

[Anonymous]

Would that help prevent the machine's fuse from blowing (which is the problem)?

 

(See also Jason's post above).

Edited By Peter Greene 🇨🇦 on 15/07/2022 01:47:32

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