Bandsaw Choice

[Kevin FParticipant @kevinf]

Thanks chris , that was my main worry with the chop saw ,any other suggestions chaps ?

[AndyfParticipant @andyf]

Kevin,

Chester do a "3×5" which is more compact than the usual 4×6 Link . I have one, and it seems to work OK. Footprint around 400×700, but the saw projects at each end so the overall length is probably around 1000mm.

Machine Mart used to sell a portable saw like Sid's, but it''s no longer on their website. The only portables they have at present seem to be expensive Makitas.

Andy

[Kevin FParticipant @kevinf]

Thank you for the link Andy , do you know the actual weight of the bandsaw ?

I looked at the machine mart one yesterday ,it weighs approx 65kgs which makes it less than portable plus it wouldn't fit under my work bench .

[ChrisHParticipant @chrish]

Hi Kevin,

The Axminster Compact Bandsaw weighs just 29kg, which makes it very easy to get out from under the workbench and put it away again afterwards. It is compact too, just 800L x 280W x 800H are max figures, but still cuts up to 100 x 150mm rectangular and 100mm dia. Worth a look.

ChrisH

[AndyfParticipant @andyf]

Unless you're accustomed to liting heavy weights, Kevin, it's too heavy to lift around on a regular basis. I'd guess about 45 or 50 Kg, or going on for a cwt. I fitted castors at the motor end, and lifting the vice end and wheeling it is easy enough. Overall height is about 950mm to the top of the motor, with the saw lowered.

The base could do with an outrigger at the motor end ; looking at Chester's pic, you can see how swinging the saw more upright would leave it in danger of falling over backwards. I think that problem afflicts some of the larger 4×6 bandsaws.

Note that there is no auto cut-off when the saw reaches the end of a cut. Nor is there provision for fixing the saw upright so the blade is vertical, and attaching a table so that you can (say) cut a 6" wide piece of plate in two by cutting first from one side and then from the other under hand guidance. That's a mod I'm considering.

Here's the portable one which Machine Mart used to sell. I have one of those, too. It cuts surprisingly well *, but is very hard to keep on line if handheld. Like Sid, I made a stand, but attaching a pivot wasn't easy because when the thing positioned so the blade cuts vertically downward, none of the surfaces of the frame are vertical or horizontal.

* Given a better blade that the one it comes with; those for Milwaukee portaband saws will fit.

Andy

Edited By Andyf on 28/12/2012 14:21:34

Edited By Andyf on 28/12/2012 14:22:05

[AndyfParticipant @andyf]

I've just realised that my last effort was somewhat superfluous; in this thread, Keith Long gave details of the same machine two weeks ago.

Andy

[Gone AwayParticipant @goneaway]

Posted by Andyf on 28/12/2012 14:20:53:

Like Sid, I made a stand, but attaching a pivot wasn't easy because when the thing positioned so the blade cuts vertically downward, none of the surfaces of the frame are vertical or horizontal.

(Just realised this thread has woken up again).

I know where you're coming from, Andy – there are surfaces at all angles compiunded by the fact that when you lay the thing down on the bench it isn't in the attitude that it would be when cutting. I sweated it for a bit too in designing a mount but it'seasier than it looks.

One of those angular surfaces was parallel to the blade (and therefore vertical in use) and that's the key. I simply bolted a piece of 1-1/2" or 2" x 1/2" bar to that surface. Since it's thin metal, I actually put a back-up piece inside, sandwiching the surface between the two. That takes care of mounting the saw and rest is just a couple of bearing-blocks from the hardware store and a piece of drill-rod or bar for a pivot shaft.

Here's another view of mine that might make it clearer:

[Kevin FParticipant @kevinf]

Posted by Andyf on 28/12/2012 14:20:53:

Unless you're accustomed to liting heavy weights, Kevin, it's too heavy to lift around on a regular basis. I'd guess about 45 or 50 Kg, or going on for a cwt. I fitted castors at the motor end, and lifting the vice end and wheeling it is easy enough. Overall height is about 950mm to the top of the motor, with the saw lowered.

Here's the portable one which Machine Mart used to sell. I have one of those, too. It cuts surprisingly well *, but is very hard to keep on line if handheld. Like Sid, I made a stand, but attaching a pivot wasn't easy because when the thing positioned so the blade cuts vertically downward, none of the surfaces of the frame are vertical or horizontal.

* Given a better blade that the one it comes with; those for Milwaukee portaband saws will fit.

Andy

Edited By Andyf on 28/12/2012 14:21:34

Edited By Andyf on 28/12/2012 14:22:05

Thank you to everyone for all your replies . Andy is the portable saw in your link above 240v ?

If it is , I think I may buy one and make a table like you and Sid have made ,could I be a real pain and ask if you have a link for the Milwaukee portaband blade ,thanks in advance Kev

[AndyfParticipant @andyf]

Hi Sid,

I followed much the same route, though on mine that surface wasn't quite parallel to the blade. My stock of accumulated oddments yielded the square tubular steel leg from an old office desk, with a 1/4" plate already welded to its end. Originally, the plate had been screwed up to the table top. I cut the leg to size and bolted it on as you did, with the bolts going into to an inside back-up piece like yours. That left the plate on the end of the leg in a vertical position behind and below the handgrip, and my pivot bearings could be bolted to that.. I used some 1/2" round as the pivot bar, held in place with an R-shaped clip (salvaged fron the last Flymo but one) through a cross-drilling at one end, so the saw could easily be detached for handheld use.

Little gets wasted here at Poverty Acres; thick leather from a 50-year old hiking boot was incorporated where the blade runs into the casing, to keep chips out of the works.

Edit: Kevin, I've been out for a pint while composing the above, and have only just seen your last post.  I bought the Milwaukee blades 3 years ago on Ebay, heaven knows from whom. Mine was certainly 230V AC. Don't know about the one in my link. but Google for the Woodstar (whatever the model no. was in the link) and see if other sellers give more info. I can see that some might be 110V for used on building sites.

Andy.

Edited By Andyf on 29/12/2012 00:41:25

[Gone AwayParticipant @goneaway]

Posted by Kevin Fenrich on 28/12/2012 23:37:45:

I think I may buy one and make a table like you and Sid have made ,could I be a real pain and ask if you have a link for the Milwaukee portaband blade ,thanks in advance Kev

It's a standard blade size made by a number of manufacturers. Starret also makes one. They should be available at any decent supplier of bandsaw blades. Just be sure to throw out the crappy blade that comes with it (once you've used it to check out your installation) and fit a decent bi-metal blade.

[AndyfParticipant @andyf]

Sid, I think you may be in the US. "Portasaws" don't seem very common here in the UK, so the blades can take a bit of hunting down. Of course, you can always have some custom ones made up, or braze them up yourself.

Andy

[Gone AwayParticipant @goneaway]

Well, Canada actually but close enough. I know you can get Starret blades in the UK and I know that they catalogue these so I assumed they'd be available but obviously you would know better than I.

[Kevin FParticipant @kevinf]

Excellent ,thank you for your input , I'll get one of these bandsaws early in the new year and I'll make a table too

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Just to add some experience which might be useful. I bought an Axminster MB115 bandsaw [4.5'' capacity] about 12 years ago and it is without doubt one of the really useful machines in the workshop.

I've found that 10TPI blades give the best overall results, but whatever you do be careful when sawing welded material, or anything that might contain hard spots. It will take the edge off teeth on one side of the blade before you have time to switch off. Further sawing then gets slow and a curved cut results.

Mine will operate upright, but it is not a mode of use I like, the table that came with it for vertical use is pretty flimsy and I think poorly made. I ran angle iron bracing round the lower ends of the legs on the frame, the tray below the bed of the machine is too lightweight to prevent the legs splaying outwards. With suitable bending and welding you can then fit castors to the leg extremities and wheel it about.

So, a worthwhile investment, but be prepared to modify the work vice and improve the clamoing of it for angled work. Jaw lift can be a problem too as large work is bigger than the vice jaws so use extra clamping appropriately. An early mod. was to replace the bolt for the blade cover with a knurled version to speed up the access if a blade comes off or needs changing. Blade tension should be such that the blade twangs nicely when plucked. Too loose and it WILL run off.

For some reason I couldn't figure out was blade throw-off when I brushed cutting oil on the blade teeth, it didn't happen cutting dry.

Brian

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

I have the Clarke machine. I have had to do a lot of adjusting and increase the movement of the tension device, but it cuts well and straight witha vary-tooth starrett bimetal blade from tuffsaws.

I am worried that the worm gear has worn rapidly – when i opened the gearbox it appeared to be full of gold paint, there was that much bronze dust in the oil (the gearbox was full to the brim). I attribute most of this to poor adjustment, but I fearI will need to replace the worm.

The sheet metal stand is OK for this slightly smaller machine, but don't replace the feet with castors – as the angled bits aren't welded in place and will just collapse when wheeeled around (guess how I know?) I will either weld on braces, or afit a sub-base with castors on.

Neil

[Bill DawesParticipant @billdawes]

Hi ChrisH, I bought a Clarke bandsaw from Machine Mart a couple of years ago, it is the one that operates vertically and horiziontally. Horizontal of course for sawing off bar and angle etc but in the vertical position is really useful for cutting out pieces of plate/sheet etc.

Quality wise, as always you get what you pay for but is adequate for DIY / ME use as far as I am concerned. Main problem to be aware of is it is a bit unstable when in vertical position, needed foot extension beneath motor end. Even so, glad I have it.

Bill D.

[mark mcParticipant @markmc72333]

I picked up a old clarke 6×4 one a few years back for 50 quid, the guy that had it bought it second hand. It's old as the hills but i fitted a bimetal blade and trued up the guides abit and it runs sweet as a nut and cuts very straight. Probably one of my best buys, saves the old elbows.

[Sandy MortonParticipant @sandymorton10620]

I have a Clarke bandsaw which is a bit sore on blades. Where did you get the bimetal ones from?

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Sandy,
See Stub Mandrel's post yesterday at 14:37 in this thread. The supplier Neil recommends also sell on Ebay. I have also bought blades from them. They post them quickly.

Les.

[AndyfParticipant @andyf]

I see that Tuffsaws make blades to custom lengths, too, so they would be a good source for decent 1150mm x 13mm (or 1/2&quot ones used by the Woodstar portable saw.

My thanks to Les and Neil for the pointer to Tuffsaws.

Andy

[mark mcParticipant @markmc72333]

Posted by Sandy Morton on 30/12/2012 20:09:10:

I have a Clarke bandsaw which is a bit sore on blades. Where did you get the bimetal ones from?

Hi sandy, heres the item number on ebay 370598103846

[Alex DU PRE 1Participant @alexdupre1]

I also have a Warco CY90! It lives under the bench on the floor and is dragged out for use. I am going to make a wheeled trolley for it to make this easier. The bandsaw is a real time and effort saver, I have been very pleased with mine. The cut is reasonably smooth and accurate. It can't operate as a vertical bandsaw, unfortunately, but bear in mind that a convertible machine such as this will be quite limited in vertical mode as the width of the blade will only allow straightish cuts. As mentioned elsewhere in the thread, some home-made accessories to enable workholding of small items would be well worthwhile.

[Douglas JohnstonParticipant @douglasjohnston98463]

Over £25 per blade including postage for the bimetal ones on ebay seems rather expensive but I suppose you get what you pay for.

Doug

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

In NZ I get the bi-metal blades at a bit over $NZ30, and if it breaks, rejoining is free, and if you take into account the extra life of a bi-metal blade over aplain carbon steel one, I think it will work out as cheap, if not cheaper. Ian S C

[Les Jones 1Participant @lesjones1]

Hi Doug,
The price for the blade Neil and myself suggested from "Tuff Saws" is a bit less than the one marc mc suggested and if you order more than one there is no additional postage. See this ebay item.

Les.

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