Alloy Pistons

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  • #326743
    duncan webster 1
    Participant
      @duncanwebster1

      Has anyone got experience of using aluminium alloy pistons in a steam loco. I'm thinking of using HE15, it is at least twice as strong as brass (375 MPa vs 135 MPa), it doesn't expand all that much more (23e-6 vs 19e-6). I'm using gunmetal cylinders and O ring seals. The reason is to reduce the reciprocating weight. Will I get corrosion problems?

      Edited By duncan webster on 11/11/2017 23:27:20

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      #1656
      duncan webster 1
      Participant
        @duncanwebster1
        #326746
        Peter Krogh
        Participant
          @peterkrogh76576

          That's an excellent question, Duncan, one that I've had recently. Obtaining big chunks of brass, cast iron or bronze is quite spendy where I am. Aluminum, however, is another story. I've made sense of using aluminum for most other parts but parts that are working 'in steam' are still a question!!

          Pete

          #326758
          Paul Lousick
          Participant
            @paullousick59116

            A friend has successfully made aluminium pistons for his full size traction engine. The lower mass reduces the rocking motion of the engine. I intend to use aluminium for my model engine.

            Paul.

            Edited By Paul Lousick on 12/11/2017 05:37:56

            #326763
            JasonB
            Moderator
              @jasonb

              As Paul says a lot of the traction engine guys use ali pistons to keep the weight down for smoother running as it is easier than recreating the hollow pistons that were used on full size. generally allow 2-3 thou per inch dia for expansion depending on the pressure (temp) you will be running. All my "steam" engines have ali pistons but generally get run on air.

              #326770
              Anonymous

                I didn't want the rattling "good" fit that would arise from using aluminium pistons in a cast iron cylinder block. So I designed and made hollow iron pistons:

                hollow_pistons.jpg

                The smaller piston is the same weight as an equivalent aluminium one, and the larger piston is lighter.

                Andrew

                #326934
                duncan webster 1
                Participant
                  @duncanwebster1

                  Andrew, I doubt you can make a bronze piston 1.25" OD * 1/4" ID * 0.5 thick, with a rim thick enough for an o-ring groove that would be lighter than a solid ally one. Even if you could, a hollow ally one would be even lighter!

                  Thanks for the feedback chaps, I've ordered some ally.

                  #326986
                  Tim Stevens
                  Participant
                    @timstevens64731

                    Regarding corrosion, I suggest that it will be likely unless you can dry out the cylinder and its contents after use. The process is a sort of electrolysis, where ions are floating about in the water. Remove the water and all should be well. It might be helpful to run the engine for a few minutes, after serious steam uses, on dry air with perhaps a squirt of WD40 or similar.

                    When you think about it, cars have managed for years with light alloy pistons in cast iron bores with copper head gaskets.

                    Regards, Tim

                    #326989
                    J Hancock
                    Participant
                      @jhancock95746

                      Hmm, but the difference there is ,generally always dry and frequent running.

                      With fifty years experience of a car that has a cast iron block with an aluminium cylinder head I can tell you it is

                      a nightmare combination.

                      Try it if you are curious but not for me in a locomotive cylinder.

                      #327012
                      Anonymous
                        Posted by duncan webster on 13/11/2017 09:51:00:

                        Andrew, I doubt you can make a bronze piston 1.25" OD * 1/4" ID * 0.5 thick, with a rim thick enough for an o-ring groove that would be lighter than a solid ally one.

                        I don't know, you haven't given enough information for a proper design. smile

                        Andrew

                        #327019
                        JasonB
                        Moderator
                          @jasonb

                          You could just about do it with 1mm wall top and bottom and 0.8mm on the verticals, I would think that being a lot smaller than Andrew's the stiffening webs would not be required and would need to be silver soldered together rather than threaded. 25g all up weight for bronze and same for solid 6061

                          Blue line shows the section.

                          hollow bronze piston.jpg

                           

                          Edited By JasonB on 13/11/2017 20:56:41

                          #327119
                          duncan webster 1
                          Participant
                            @duncanwebster1

                            Following the advice given I've had a rethink. The original drawing shows one off 1/8" section o-ring, so I can reduce the piston to ~5/16 thick, then put a groove in both sides 7/8" OD, 3/8" ID 7/64" deep. This gets the mass down by factor ~2.5, that will do for me. I'll put packers on the covers to take up the extra clearance volume. I'd rather not take the risk of seized piston. I'll use the ally to make some new crossheads.

                            Edited By duncan webster on 14/11/2017 14:04:50

                            #327122
                            richardandtracy
                            Participant
                              @richardandtracy

                              The corrosion problem could be eliminated by hard anodising – diy or local supplier. Might help with wear rates too.

                              Regards

                              Richard.

                              #327133
                              Tim Stevens
                              Participant
                                @timstevens64731

                                Do check before going the anodising route that the alloy you are using is suitable. Some alloys do not respond well to the process. Exactly how you tell, I don't know, now. I used to be able to ask my mate who worked at Alcan, just down the road. But that was, of, about 55 years ago, I suppose …

                                Cheers, Tim

                                #327155
                                richardandtracy
                                Participant
                                  @richardandtracy

                                  6082-T6 hard anodizes quite well, and looks worse than most of the weaker 6xxx alloys. Most machinable extrusions are 6xxx alloys.

                                  Regards

                                  Richard

                                   

                                  Edited By richardandtracy on 14/11/2017 16:37:07

                                  #327158
                                  duncan webster 1
                                  Participant
                                    @duncanwebster1

                                    6082 is HE30. It's not as strong as HE15, but I daresay it's strong enough. I can get either. Hadn't thought of anodising it, would look quite good anodised to black. Does HE15 anodise well? Interweb is encouraging. Do I anodise the rubbing surface, mask it off or machine that bit afterwards?

                                    Anyone know whether anodising has been covered in ME or MEW?

                                    Edited By duncan webster on 14/11/2017 16:53:48

                                    Edited By duncan webster on 14/11/2017 17:13:53

                                    #327165
                                    richardandtracy
                                    Participant
                                      @richardandtracy

                                      Anodize the rubbing face seems sensible for startup conditions – harder surface shouldn't wear so fast with low lube conditions.

                                      Regards

                                      Richard.

                                      #327207
                                      Tim Stevens
                                      Participant
                                        @timstevens64731

                                        And make sure the face is bang on what you need, as filing etc will not be easy once it is anodised.

                                        Tim

                                        #327212
                                        Cabinet Enforcer
                                        Participant
                                          @cabinetenforcer
                                          Posted by duncan webster on 14/11/2017 16:52:28:

                                          6082 is HE30. It's not as strong as HE15, but I daresay it's strong enough. I can get either. Hadn't thought of anodising it, would look quite good anodised to black. Does HE15 anodise well? Interweb is encouraging. Do I anodise the rubbing surface, mask it off or machine that bit afterwards?

                                          Anyone know whether anodising has been covered in ME or MEW?

                                          Edited By duncan webster on 14/11/2017 16:53:48

                                          Edited By duncan webster on 14/11/2017 17:13:53

                                          Duncan, I know that 2xxx aluminium suffers from stress corrosion cracking, if 6082 is strong enough at the intended temperature range then it would be preferable for that reason.

                                          #327229
                                          Howard Lewis
                                          Participant
                                            @howardlewis46836

                                            Since the operating temperature is likely to be lower than in an internal combustion engine, the clearance can probably be tighter, relatively. (Think of the temperatures to which the crown is subjected during full load running – probably three times that seen in a model steam loco)

                                            But anodising is an excellent idea, to minimise corrosion, and will reduce wear, being hard.

                                            If you are brave, you could anodise at home, using dilute sulphuric acid and a battery. (in the current situation, you may have some explaining to do, though). In industry, chromic acid used to be the preferred electrolyte.

                                            Howard

                                            #327243
                                            duncan webster 1
                                            Participant
                                              @duncanwebster1

                                              Cabinet Enforcer, I've sent you a pm

                                              #327257
                                              David George 1
                                              Participant
                                                @davidgeorge1

                                                In the past I was involved in lightweight tooling for plastic moulding and the aluminium parts were hard coat anodized and PTFE impregnated to prevent wear and corrosion from the cooling water. A local company did the process overnight.

                                                David

                                                #327920
                                                duncan webster 1
                                                Participant
                                                  @duncanwebster1

                                                  I've been going through some old ME's prior to passing them on. Seems Neville Evans was quite keen on ally pistons, but I then came across a letter from a Dave Murray in ME 4228 re ally pistons in gm cylinders. His rotted away, so I'm definately sticking to bronze, but I'll have a go at Jason's scheme to get the weight down. I'm not sure I want hard pistons (anodised) I'd rather the pistons wear than the cylinders.

                                                  Edited By duncan webster on 19/11/2017 13:08:55

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