Aliphatic glue removal/separation

[Mike JosephParticipant @mikejoseph75242]

Help please!

I glued the very last major piece of wood on to a boat model and then found that it had moved slightly. The glue is ‘Super Phatic’.

Are there any known solvents? The hull is already painted – no option.

Cheers

Mike

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Acetone can soften it but does depend on the particular brand and type. I have done it with Titebond II but the exterior Titebond III may be a bit harder.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

One of my favourite adhesives as I am allergic to cyano.

Breaking the joint will be difficult as Superphatic is a bit like penetrating oil, it is very thin and wicks into the joint and wood grain. The wood surfaces are effectively welded together and the wood will give way before the glue does.

Using acetone as Jason suggests might just work but be prepared for a splintered separation.

Ammonia might be a last resort as it softens the wood itself which might not be a good thing. You are unlikely to get a clean break.

It might be an idea to contact the manufacturer Deluxe Materials. I did an interview with them for Model Boats magazine some years back.

Super 'Phatic

Colin

[Mike JosephParticipant @mikejoseph75242]

Hi

Thanks for the ideas. I have already contacted Delux Materials and they suggested methylene chloride/ paint stripper or steam.

I will try all these on some samples and also white spirit and methylated spirits. Tomorrow’s job.

Mike

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

Pick whichever of the two pieces is easiest to reproduce and turn it into dust or shavings.

Scrape off the glue once the joint is reached from whichever sie you approach it.

Cutting the piece off may offer the opportunity to preserve the majority of it.

[Mike JosephParticipant @mikejoseph75242]

Hi DC31k

Sadly not a possibility – this is a long rubbing strake on the side of a painted boat hull. To say that I was a tad upset would be a trifle pointless…

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Rubbing strakes can be tricky to get the alignment right. I had two each side on my Greek fishing boat and used 3mm Tamiya masking tape to get the line right below the strakes before taping them in place and running Superphatic along the joint.

Good luck with the repair.

Colin

[Mike JosephParticipant @mikejoseph75242]

I have an answer – sort of.

I experimented with the same mix of acrilic paint used on the boat and made a number of glued, painted samples. These I put in 35mm film canisters with various solvents, the results after a soak of 3.5 hours are in the order that I examined them:

White spirit – no effect on the glue or paint

Methylated spirits – perfect separation and no paint damage

Cellulose thinners – perfect separation but damage to the paint

‘Gunk’ engine cleaner – no effect on the glue or paint

Nitromors paint remover – separated but the paint was a write off (and the container binned because it was all very messy!).

So meths it is.

Interesting. I may have to be patient to get it apart but at least there is hope.

Thank you all for responding and giving advice.

Happy modelling!

Mike

[Mike JosephParticipant @mikejoseph75242]

Meths worked after only about 20 minutes.

Big smiley!

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Excellent news, Mike !

Duly noted for future reference.

MichaelG.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

That’s interesting to know, if Meths works then so will denatured alcohol which is the same thing.

As well as wood to wood joints, Superphatic is suitable for porous to non porous joints in other materials so it is a viable substitute for cyano in many circumstances if you don’t mind the longer curing time or are allergic to superglue. I have used it successfully on wood to plasticard.

I will post this info on the model boating forums.

Colin

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