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  • #7352
    Jack Foreman 1
    Participant
      @jackforeman1
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      #168131
      Jack Foreman 1
      Participant
        @jackforeman1

        Can someone please explain what Gauge Blocks are?
        And what are they used for?

        Thanks,
        Jack

        #168134
        MadMike
        Participant
          @madmike

          Jack, gauge blocks are extremely accurate and certified components made from high grade tool steel or ceramic. They are normally used as a means of setting or checking measuring equipment. For example they will allow you to check a micrometer, or even set the postion of a DTI in a height gauge etc.

          Google is your friend incidentally.

          #168136
          Michael Gilligan
          Participant
            @michaelgilligan61133
            Posted by MadMike on 29/10/2014 21:42:30:

            Google is your friend incidentally.

            .

            Hint: The name Johansson is very good place to start.

            MichaelG.

            #168137
            Anonymous

              Gauge blocks can also be 'wrung' together to create lengths not available as a single block. This can be useful for setting sine bars, or for calibrating, or checking, specific dimensions. It is important that the gauge blocks have a very thin coating of oil before they are wrung together. See this thread on 'practicalmachinist' which also includes links to some manufacturers notes:

              **LINK**

              Regards,

              Andrew

              #168153
              Bodgit Fixit and Run
              Participant
                @bodgitfixitandrun

                They used to be referred to as slip gauges when I was an apprentice many many moons ago.

                #168154
                Michael Gilligan
                Participant
                  @michaelgilligan61133

                  Andrew,

                  Thanks for posting that link …

                  The NIST "Handbook" linked within that thread is a valuable reference.

                  [also available via the Wikipedia page on Johannson]

                  MichaelG.

                  .

                  For the sake of completeness … here is the NIST page

                  .

                  Edited By Michael Gilligan on 30/10/2014 08:33:27

                  Edited By Michael Gilligan on 30/10/2014 08:35:31

                  Edited By Michael Gilligan on 30/10/2014 08:48:08

                  #168159
                  IanT
                  Participant
                    @iant

                    Nice things to have occasionally (for my uses) and do come under the heading "Likely to be unaffordable"

                    IanT

                    #168175
                    Dinosaur Engineer
                    Participant
                      @dinosaurengineer

                      If you search on Ebay for "slip gauges" you will usually find second hand sets for about £40.They can be made from ceramic or tungsten carbide as well as the usual hardened steel. The big advantage of the carbide or ceramic sets is that these do not go rusty. Sizes can be from 0.020" to 4" on the imperial sets. Normal sets start from 0.100".

                      The usual sectional size is about 9mm x 35mm but gauges blocks can be square (made by "Precise" ).

                      Slip gauge prices have reduced a lot over the years. I remember the early sets were over a £1000.

                      Length standards have not changed much over the last 70 years and slip gauges are still widely used as the reference standard.

                      A set of slips will last a few lifetimes and will not depreciate in value if they are not abused.

                      Edited By Dinosaur Engineer on 30/10/2014 13:42:04

                      Edited By Dinosaur Engineer on 30/10/2014 13:42:35

                      Edited By Dinosaur Engineer on 30/10/2014 13:44:06

                      Edited By Neil Wyatt on 30/10/2014 16:38:08

                      #168176
                      Dinosaur Engineer
                      Participant
                        @dinosaurengineer

                        Tried to remove "smiley" from my post without success. ! ?

                        #168180
                        Neil Wyatt
                        Moderator
                          @neilwyatt

                          Dino,

                          Put a space between a quote and a closing bracket.

                          Neil

                          #168184
                          Rik Shaw
                          Participant
                            @rikshaw

                            I bought a second hand set of imperial slips in a Bakelite case some years ago from that auction site. They are inspection grade and were made by Matrix of Coventry and I use them constantly.

                            Very, very handy for setting the vernier height gauge prior to marking out, as stop registers in the T slots on the lathe cross slide and milling table, (although purists would frown on this treatment) and of course for sizing milled slots to mention just a few uses. A very versatile addition to any toolroom.

                            As has already mentioned, these were always referred to as slip gauges when I was doing my bit years ago. The first time I heard "gauge blocks" was when I came on here – I guess that's what our friends across the pond call them.

                            Rik

                            #168187
                            michael cole
                            Participant
                              @michaelcole91146
                              Posted by Andrew Johnston on 29/10/2014 22:02:34:

                              . It is important that the gauge blocks have a very thin coating of oil before they are wrung together. See this thread on 'practicalmachinist' which also includes links to some manufacturers notes:

                              **LINK**

                              Regards,

                              Andrew

                              We were taught different. if you have a film of oil then that is going to alter the size. Oil should not be needed to wring together.

                              #168190
                              Jack Foreman 1
                              Participant
                                @jackforeman1

                                Thank you all.
                                I doubt that I will rush out to buy a set in the near future. emotion

                                #168196
                                Rik Shaw
                                Participant
                                  @rikshaw

                                  Michael is right – slips should be "wrung" together without oil for the reason he gives.

                                  Rik

                                  #168199
                                  Neil Wyatt
                                  Moderator
                                    @neilwyatt

                                    I have some chuck jaws that will wring together dry.

                                    Neil

                                    #168204
                                    Max Tolerance
                                    Participant
                                      @maxtolerance69251

                                      As explained above Gauge blocks / slips are used to measure to very precise dimensions. In a full set of imperial there are normally 81 blocks plus two protective slips and in a metric set there are usually 88 blocks + two. I have seen and actually own sets with larger numbers of blocks however with a standard set you can combine blocks together to make any size going up in .0001 imperial or .001 (or finer) in metric up to the capacity of the full set. Normally there are standard sizes 1" 2" etc or 25mm 50 mm then there are increments of smaller amounts .1 .2 etc then even smaller units .01.02 etc. So by using the correct combination any size can be wrung together. When a good undamaged slip is wrung to its neighbour due to the lapped surface finish the slips "stick" together and can only be parted by using a twisting motion NO OIL should be used. Immediately the slips are finished with they must be separated. If left for a long period it will be found that they cannot be parted without considerable damage rendering the blocks useless.

                                      A type of gauge block was first developed by Joseph Whitworth of screw thread fame when he was standardising the inch measurement using them he developed a micrometer measuring to 1 millionth of an inch accuracy. The Government of the day showed no interest in these and they were ignored for years. However on the outbreak of the first world war it quickly became apparent that an easily transported system of gauges were needed in order to produce weapons, shells, bullets etc. in factories all over the country to a standard size so that they fitted together. So the government imported a large number of sets from Johannson in Scandinavia hence the name joey blocks sometimes used by the more mature engineers.

                                      #168227
                                      robjon44
                                      Participant
                                        @robjon44

                                        Without wishing to make purists shudder, whilst operating a shaper in the toolroom as an apprentice some 50 years ago, there was a box containing a large quantity of out of calibration slip gauges. As a quick & dirty method they were used by shapers, millers & turners to set step heights & lengths, also with a piece of HSS with a chisel edge on one end a scribing tool. Bearing in mind that the only other use would be lining a skip. The ones in my toolbox from that time are still in use on my acorntools shaper today

                                        robjon44

                                        #168238
                                        Anonymous

                                          So why does Starrett recommend wiping the mating surfaces with a cloth impregnated with a light machine oil, wiping the excess oil off with a second cloth, and the wringing the blocks together?

                                          Andrew

                                          #168242
                                          Gordon W
                                          Participant
                                            @gordonw

                                            Like most people I could never buy a set of slips. I find a couple or 3 old bearing rings and balls are near enough for my use. If real accuracy is needed, say for setting a mike, take a suitable ring down to the nearest place with a tool room and get them to measure it, note the readings.Wipe with an oily rag.

                                            #168253
                                            Phil H 1
                                            Participant
                                              @philh1

                                              Andrew,

                                              I was always told to ensure that the surfaces of the slips were clean i.e., free from grease, oil and finger marks before wringing the slips. I can understand them being oiled when they are returned to the box. I think the main idea was to ensure that there was nothing between the slips to ensure accuracy. In addition, the slips do not need oil or any other lubrication to wring.

                                              Interesting.

                                              PhilH

                                              #168257
                                              Neil Wyatt
                                              Moderator
                                                @neilwyatt

                                                This is chapter and verse:

                                                **LINK**

                                                5.2 Preparation and Inspection
                                                It is essential that the gauge blocks being calibrated, as well as the standards being used, be clean
                                                and free from burrs, nicks and corrosion if the calibration is to be valid. Therefore, it is necessary to
                                                institute an inspection, cleaning and deburring procedure as part of every calibration. Such a
                                                procedure will also protect the comparator working surface and the diamond styli.
                                                5.2.1 Cleaning Procedures
                                                Gauge blocks should be cleaned in an organic solvent such as mineral spirits. Solvents such as
                                                trichloroethylene or benzene should be avoided because of health risks involved with their use.
                                                Freons should not be used because of environmental hazards they pose. The bottom of the bath
                                                should be lined with a waffled mat of neoprene rubber to minimize scratches and burrs to the gauge
                                                block surfaces caused by grit or metal to metal contact.
                                                Rectangular blocks should be immersed in the bath and a soft bristle brush used to remove the layer
                                                of protecting oil or grease from all surfaces. Lint-free towels should be used to dry the blocks. A
                                                second cleaning using ethyl alcohol is recommended to remove any remaining residue. Again, wipe
                                                with lint-free towels.
                                                Square type blocks are cleaned in the same manner as the rectangular blocks except that the center
                                                hole needs special attention. The hole must be thoroughly cleaned and dried to prevent "bleeding out" of an oil film onto the contact surfaces and supporting platen when the block is positioned
                                                vertically. A .22 caliber gun cleaning rod makes an ideal instrument for cleaning the bore of blocks
                                                in the size range of 2 mm to 500 mm. A solvent moistened piece of lint-free paper towel can be
                                                pushed through the hole repeatedly until all visible residue is removed.

                                                Neil

                                                #168297
                                                Anonymous

                                                  It may be chapter and verse, but possibly from the wrong songsheet. crook

                                                  The quotation above relates to the preparation and cleaning of gauge blocks for comparative calibration using an electro-mechanical comparator with LVDTs. In the comparison process individual gauge blocks are compared with a block of known length. Wringing is not mentioned, or used in the comparison process.

                                                  Appendix B in the link given makes for interesting reading. The tentative conclusion is the wringing force is due to a liquid layer. And the thickness of this layer is accounted for in the calibration of the block.

                                                  Regards,

                                                  Andrew

                                                  LVDT = linear variable differential transformer – a pretty nifty linear displacement sensor capable of resolving down to nanometres, although I used them on the more prosaic task of measuring suspension ride height on racing cars.

                                                  #168315
                                                  Bodgit Fixit and Run
                                                  Participant
                                                    @bodgitfixitandrun

                                                    I was always taught that they should not be oiled but used dry. The holding force is due to the very fine finish which is why wringing works. Oil will give a false reading and if I remember correctly from my apprenticeship a thin film of oil can take the equivalent of 40 tons per square inch to squeeze out. They will hold together with oil because of the viscous effect and tackiness of the oil but won't give a true reading.

                                                    #168317
                                                    Michael Gilligan
                                                    Participant
                                                      @michaelgilligan61133
                                                      Posted by Andrew Johnston on 01/11/2014 10:37:04:

                                                      Appendix B in the link given makes for interesting reading.

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