Clarke CMD10 Mill

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Clarke CMD10 Mill

This topic has 12 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 31 August 2013 at 20:12 by alex wade 1.

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28 October 2010 at 13:26 #57656
Pat Bravery
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@patbravery
I have recently bought a Clarke CMD10 Milling machine and I was getting on famously with it until the last week or so. The chuck is parting company with the MT2 when using it for light milling. I have removed the draw bar and cleaned the tapers with white spirit and with a hide mallet hit the tapers together only to find that the assembly parts company almost immediately. All the required gibs are locked down and there is minimal vibration, so any help would be appreciated. I am considering using Loctite to fix it but I am sure that there is a reason as to why I should not. Thanks in anticipation, Pat
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28 October 2010 at 13:26 #5257
Pat Bravery
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@patbravery
Chuck
28 October 2010 at 13:45 #57661
Peter G. Shaw
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@peterg-shaw75338
Presuming that you are talking chuck as in drill chuck, then you shouldn’t be using a drill chuck for light milling. You should be using a collet of some sort along with a draw bar. Reason is, AIUI, is that milling produces a lot of sideways thrust (correct term?) which in turn causes the drill chuck taper to waggle it’s way free. Drilling imposes a purely vertical thrust because the drill will be cutting on both lips identically (we hope!) and thus balancing out the sideways forces. Milling imposes out of balance forces as it mainly cuts on one tooth at a time.

Using a drawbar fastened collet ensures that the collet can’t slacken off, hence the milling cutter stays where it is.

That’s my take on it, rightly or wrongly.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw
28 October 2010 at 13:51 #57662
Pat Bravery
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@patbravery
Thanks Peter, that answers the question. I will look out for collet set. Thanks again, Pat
28 October 2010 at 14:04 #57664
Ray Lyons
Participant
@raylyons29267
I came across something like this recently. A friend called with a sprindle from a bench drilling machine and asked me to check as he was sure it was bent. I checked it Ok but when he reassembled the machine and fitted a chuck with a drill, there was a definate “throw” at the tip of the drill. My immediate and totally wrong impression was that someone had used a hammer to remove the chuck.

Another friend with more experience than me, removed the chuck and as best he could, cleaned out the taper socket in the drilling machine sprindle resulting in a much improved performance. When I saw this, I went into my tool store and extracted a No 2 MT reamer. Using hand pressure only, the bore was cleaned in seconds. The macnine now works well.

Never too old to learn.

Hope this is of some help.

Ray
26 August 2013 at 20:02 #127933
alex wade 1
Participant
@alexwade1
i have just aquired a clarke cmd10 mill and i dont know how to remove the chuck any help appretiated

thanks Aw
27 August 2013 at 19:53 #128023
Peter Tucker
Participant
@petertucker86088
Hi Alex,

Is it hed in with a draw bar?

Peter.
27 August 2013 at 20:37 #128035
Sub Mandrel
Participant
@submandrel
Ptrick, if you need a cheap 'get you by' a simple milling cutter holder can be made from a blank arbor witha suitable hole in teh end and a locking screw. The hole needs to be very accurate, I made mine in the lathe with a d-bit for 1/4" FC3 cutters. You can also buy these far cheaper than a collet set, but they obviously only work for one size of cutter.

When funds allow I'd recommend an ER series collet chuck and collets, ideally with a 'ball nut'' for stress free closing.

Neil
27 August 2013 at 22:25 #128051
Pat Bravery
Participant
@patbravery
Hi Neil, I treated myself to an ER25 set about 2 years ago and have read a few books on the subject, I can now use the mill with some degree of confidence, I am also grateful to the contributors to this forum who's postings are read with interest, even the 'plum' that critised 'amateurs' using this forum with stupid questions, well I am an amateur and very proud that I am able to learn a new skill after many years in heavy engineering. Thanks again to all the contributors to this forum, best regards Pat
27 August 2013 at 22:27 #128052
Pat Bravery
Participant
@patbravery
Neil, I think that we live in the same county Norfolk, Pat
28 August 2013 at 20:03 #128107
Sub Mandrel
Participant
@submandrel
Sorry Pat, I'm in Staffordshire!

And sorry Alex, I missed your post! If it has a drawbar, try tapping the drawbar gently with a mallet.

Neil
28 August 2013 at 21:50 #128111
Bazyle
Participant
@bazyle
Alex. If a gentle tap doesn't work wind down the quill (spindle) and see if it has a slot in it that allows you to see the top of the taper. Often they do . You can remove the drawbar and put a metal bar through the slot to lever down the taper. This is kinder to the bearings than wolloping the drawbar. Triangular bits of metal called drifts are sometimes provided with a mill or drill for this.
31 August 2013 at 20:12 #128308
alex wade 1
Participant
@alexwade1
hi

thank you all for your help it was a drawbar

aw
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