Lightly Oil tool taper before inserting
Barely tighten more than hand tight.
Make sure tool is warmer than mill spindle before inserting.
Check whether your mill spindle has a ejector slot in the side when the spindle is fully down – if so use it.
Look into chuck removal wedges (currently out of stock on this link) Arc may do them.
Release and eject tool (at least to hang on drawbar) as soon as you have finished using it – while still warm, not next day, even if you will be using it again tomorrow.

If you end up hitting the drawbar fist lower the spindle a bit and provide support with bits of bar and plate from the actual rotating bit of the spindle down to the bed so that you are not putting the strain in the bearings. Tricky but possible.

Edited By Bazyle on 27/02/2016 23:23:58

Probably most of the chuck ejection problems are caused by over tightening of the male and female morse tapers. You should NEVER need to bash the draw bar to free the taper if you do you have been to heavy handed.

Eventually, I found the best way to avoid problems when fitting a chuck is to remove the draw bar and cylindrical retaining nut, pop the chuck up into the taper gently, hold it there while you fit the draw bar until it is finger tight. Now screw the spindle nut down unti it stops then back it of half a turn or so. Holding the spindle with a spanner use an appropriate tool to tighten the small square end on the draw bar – it only wans to be a snug fit – do not over tighten. Finally, tighten the spindle nut – you can use a little more force here – to secure the assembly.

When removing a chuck slacken of the spindle retaining nut half a turn or so then hold the spindle and undo the small square on the draw bar. As the two tapers come apart you should get a gentle crack as they release.. If it sounds complicated it soon becomes second nature with a little practise.

My "appropriate" draw bar spanner is an old brass gas tap handle about 3" long that fits the draw bar square end.

Rik

Edited By Rik Shaw on 28/02/2016 09:45:26

I use a very similar method as Rik; the only difference is my draw bar spanner is a 6" 1/4" drive ratchet plus a 9mm 12 point socket for the draw bar square. I snug the draw bar hand tight only as the ratchet has enough leverage to secure whatever I happen to be using, as for undoing I get a definite 'crack' as the two tapers disengage, also I always check both tapers & give all tapers a wipe over to ensure that there is no grit or such like on any taper.

George.

I use a mini (car that is) 6mm square drive brake adjusting spanner on mine.
Mark P.