Clarke CMD10 Milling Machine

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Clarke CMD10 Milling Machine

This topic has 17 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 10 November 2015 at 08:36 by Neil Wyatt.

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9 November 2015 at 17:03 #24209
Richard Parker 1
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@richardparker1
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9 November 2015 at 17:03 #211285
Richard Parker 1
Participant
@richardparker1
Hello,

My Clarke CMD10 has packed up. Sometimes it will start, sometimes not, and it stops with the slightest load applied.

I understand it is either down to the motor or PCB (or both)… can anyone advise how to work out which is it so I know what to order? The cost of both parts is not much less than a new machine…!

Thanks

Richard
9 November 2015 at 17:19 #211291
Pat Bravery
Participant
@patbravery
Hi, The plastic cogs have probably stripped, they are sacrificial. Remove the motor and top plate and the damage if there will be obvious. They are cheap to buy and easy to fit. All the best Pat
9 November 2015 at 18:01 #211301
Richard Parker 1
Participant
@richardparker1
Hi Pat, sadly it's not that, I've just taken the motor off and the gears look OK. When I try and run the motor with it removed, it still makes sort of "stuttering" noises…
9 November 2015 at 18:10 #211303
john carruthers
Participant
@johncarruthers46255
Sticky or worn brushes?
9 November 2015 at 18:21 #211305
Richard Parker 1
Participant
@richardparker1
They look OK…
9 November 2015 at 18:38 #211309
nigel jones 5
Participant
@nigeljones5
then its the famed pcb…I had two go so i put a zenor diode in to halve the motor speed and left it at that. Crude but very cheap!
9 November 2015 at 19:08 #211315
John Rudd
Participant
@johnrudd16576
Disconnect the motor wiring completely and replace it with a 100 watt light bulb. With the speed pot at zero, the bulb should be out….advance the pot, does the bulb start to glow and progressively get brighter? If so then chances are the board is ok and the motor needs looking at….could be shorted windngs or open circuit…
9 November 2015 at 19:08 #211316
Richard Parker 1
Participant
@richardparker1
OK the PCB rather than the motor… fizzy, please could you explain the zenor diode fix, I presume you remove the PCB completely, but where does the diode go in it's place…?
9 November 2015 at 19:09 #211317
Richard Parker 1
Participant
@richardparker1
John, just seen your post – will try that and report back too.
9 November 2015 at 19:36 #211326
Richard Parker 1
Participant
@richardparker1
Just tried John's test – bulb varies in intensity when turning the switch, so maybe it's the motor rather than the PCB…? Is that something which can be repaired or just needs a replacement? Thanks for all the advice so far.
9 November 2015 at 19:55 #211334
John Rudd
Participant
@johnrudd16576
Before condemming the motor, I'd be inclined to clean up the commutator….

Look closely at the copper segments, the slots between each one should be clear. You can check this by running a junior hacksaw blade up and down the slots( a worn one is best, remove the pin from the end….)

If this doesnt improve things, then chances are the motor is u/s….( try and limit the time taken when running the motor with the board…damage limitation…)

The zener diode trick isnt something I'd advocate…..these motors run on dc and need a hefty diode to run direct from the mains, not just some BZX 85 series zener…
9 November 2015 at 20:09 #211336
Richard Parker 1
Participant
@richardparker1
Thanks, John. I will try that – but just how do I open the motor housing to do that!?!

NB – the resistance of motor is around 25 Ohms and varies as I turn the spindle.
9 November 2015 at 22:13 #211352
John Rudd
Participant
@johnrudd16576
Can you remove the motor end caps?….screws?

As you have a meter, you could check the continuity between the windings, if you measure between adjacent segments, the readings should be the same. This test will also reveal any winding that is open circuit…as the machine isnt blowing fuses, an open winding is the likely cause of the motor running poorly
10 November 2015 at 00:23 #211371
Richard Parker 1
Participant
@richardparker1
The only way in as far as I can tell, is via two nuts on the underneath. However, they are recessed in a hole, and the hole is too small to get a socket on them… most helpful.

However, having proved the PCB was OK, and since I couldn't easily open the motor housing, I connected the motor back to the PCB to see what would happen, and it seemed OK, so I put the motor back on the top and all evening the machine has been running fine. So I really don't know what the problem was, but fingers crossed all will be well.

Many thanks for all the help!

Richard
10 November 2015 at 07:45 #211378
John Rudd
Participant
@johnrudd16576
Loose connection somewhere?
10 November 2015 at 08:36 #211380
Neil Wyatt
Moderator
@neilwyatt
Have you checked the brushes for wear?

If not sounds like blown windings to me. Probably 2, as the motors usually run with one blown winding.

Neil
10 November 2015 at 08:36 #211381
Neil Wyatt
Moderator
@neilwyatt
Have you checked the brushes for wear?

If not sounds like blown windings to me. Probably 2, as the motors usually run with one blown winding.

Neil
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