Hi,

I’m sorry to her about the loss of your friend. I’m sure your problem with the lathe can be resolved , I have had some great help from the forum in the past. Boxfords are a good machines and I’m sure yours will serve you well.

Firstly can I check that your motor is single phase? Then can I ask that you take some pictures of the motor the starter and the wiring We [ as I alone may not be able to solve this) need to see if we can establish what type of motor it is and to see whether a motor starter or simple switch is used and to assess the condition of the wiring. May I also ask if you have done anything to the lathes electrics? Eg changed the flex or anything else, just trying to establish if a fault has been created by something you did or by deterioration of a component.

I suspect the issue is with the motor itself, we may need to ask you to remove it from the lathe as having owned an AUD I know access is quite tight but removal isn’t difficult just fiddly, but I’m jumping ahead. Do please unplug the lathe before you take the pictures to ensure nothing untoward happens while you do.

Look forward to seeing the images and helping you to fix the issue.

Tony

Can you check that the back gear lever on top of the headstock has not been moved as some have a microswitch to protect the gears which cuts the power if moved whilst under power. Just a thought.

David

Where in the country are you ? We need much more info, If it has a proper contactor then that may need adjusting. On the data plate there should be a figure for Full load amps of just amps, the contactor must be set to this figure. Is something running tight ? With the belt off the motor should rotate freely by hand. It IS single phase ? Centrifugal switch sticking or capacitors failed.

Never mind about changing lightbulbs, it may Take several of us to sort it – but we will ! Noel

That or part operated back gear lever.

Does the chuck spin around for that 10 seconds?

Is the chuck and headstock spindle free to rotate by hand when not under power?

If the problem goes away when you remove the upper belt, then the problem has got to be something binding on the spindle or associated back gears or change gears.

Try putting the feed lever in the neutral position and the screw cutting lever if it has one. And make sure the carriage feed nuts and half nuts are disengaged.

Then if it runs ok, work through the drivetrain and engage one thing at a time then start the motor again until you find what is binding and stalling/tripping the motor.

Edited By Hopper on 22/02/2021 09:55:36

Just wondering about the symptoms: motor starts, runs for 10 seconds then stops. Maybe noisy. Lathe moved recently.

Hard to tell but I think it's a single phase motor, exact type unknown – is a picture from the back possible (with a mirror)? It might show the motor plate (what does it say), start and run capacitors (which conk out), or a detached wire.

May not be a coincidence the lathe has failed after being moved. A terminal loosened by years of vibration, followed by the power cable flopping about enough during transit to detach one or more wires.

Single-phase motors fail for various reasons. As there are at least 5 different configurations, it helps enormously to identify the exact type. They all have a start and run winding, some way of shifting their relative phase (typically a capacitor or two), and maybe a mechanism (usually a centrifugal switch) for disconnecting the run winding once the motor has started. Some motors also contain a thermal cut-out.

Noting the power feed dangles inside the pulley cabinet I'd look first for a cable damage due to rubbing and then check both ends at the terminals for solid connections and continuity (multi-meter test).

I can't think of a fault that would cause the motor to start and then cut out. AsI don't have lots of practical experience with single-phase motors, perhaps an expert knows? It suggests power gets to both windings correctly, then something fails. Maybe the centrifugal switch or the thermal cut-out is tripping prematurely. If it's type with both start and run capacitors, then maybe the Run capacitor is faulty. Works well enough to start the motor, but can't supply enough current when the run winding is disconnected by the switch.

Dunno!

Dave

• Start Winding

Hi, these lathe's usually had a 3/4 hp three phase motor fitted, when using a single phase motor, the advice is to use a 1 hp motor to get the higher speeds.

Regards Nick.

As someone else has said you need to try running it with the belt on the smallest pulley at the bottom and the largest at the top, this is the lowest speed for the spindle and presents the lowest load to the motor. In the winter the grease is colder and the spindle will be present a greater load. Single phase motors can suffer from poor starting torque depending on which of the 5 types described earlier some are better than others. The highest load is presented to the motor as it attempts to get the Spindle moving and is reduced as it gets up to speed, it’s like starting to push a shopping trolley once you get it moving the effort required to keep it going is reduced. So it could be that at the highest load in the cold with an underpowered motor it’s ntbgetting up to speed and it’s over currenting the contractor..

A common fault two much grease pumped in which has now jammed the centrifugal switch have seen this problem many times , I think you have now got to strip and clean your motor looks like you my have over greased your motor

Regards Bee.m