KRV2000 (bridgeport clone) sliding pulley bush replacement

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KRV2000 (bridgeport clone) sliding pulley bush replacement

Home Forums Manual machine tools KRV2000 (bridgeport clone) sliding pulley bush replacement

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  • #12852
    Mark Simpson 1
    Participant
      @marksimpson1
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      #276076
      Mark Simpson 1
      Participant
        @marksimpson1

        I've dismantled the head of my Pinacle Excel turret Mill, which is another clone of a varispeed KRV2000 to locate the source of the steadily growing noises within.

        As expected I find that the bushes in the spindle sliding pulley are wornout and there is a small "scuff" on the shaft opposite the keyway. There are two split "plastic" bushes 39mm od, 35mm bore and a plastic key. The motor sliding pulley and key seem fine

        I contacted Excel in Coventry, and was pleasantly surprised to learn that new bushes and key are available for only £139.60+vat, they were very helpful and konowledgable t.b.h.

        Before getting my hand that deep in my pocket I want to try my own repair…

        I wonder if anyone has tried making their own from PB or Delrin or?

        I've got an oilite bush with 35mm bore which could be skimmed down to fit and then stuck in with bearing retainer…

        Hard to imagine I could do any real damage… but would love to hear form someone whose actually done one.

         

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        Edited By Mark Simpson 1 on 06/01/2017 13:16:00

        Edited By Mark Simpson 1 on 06/01/2017 13:16:51

        #276093
        Clive Foster
        Participant
          @clivefoster55965

          Let the moths out of your wallet and buy them! My Bridgeport 2J2 Varispeed had the older formed in place bushes which officially cannot be replaced so I had to make new ones. Delrin made nice bushes but was total pain to get accurately to size as it became floppy and tended to stretch off the tool rather than cutting when getting close to the proper size. If there is ever a next time I shall make them over thick, bond in place and finish bore to size in the pulley. Helps that I now have a lathe large enough to swing the pulleys. Setting up will be a pest tho'. Allegedly the IGUS 3D printed dry bearing bush service isn't stupidly expensive so I might try that.

          It might be possible to stabilise the nascent delrin bush with a metal sleeve supported in the fixed steady. Make it about twice the length of the bushes and ensure that both inside and outside surfaces are concentric. If you are careful it should be possible to make one bush fully to size in the outer half whilst leaving enough material behind in the inner part to keep things in one piece. Then cut off the parent bar. Flip round, mount up true in the four jaw chuck (or collet) and finish bore the other one. I couldn't do this as the formed in place bushes have external ridges fitting into grooves in the pulley so had to grapple with extreme floppy tendencies. Mine came out a touch tight but I was able to use the keyway as a crude reamer to bright them to size by rotating on the shaft.

          Bronze or similar bushes don't work too well as lubrication is insufficient and the shaft will wear. So you end up really stuffed. Oilite might be OK if there is a suitable size bore to use as is. Turning or reaming oilite to adjust the size tends to destroy the porous surface unless very sharp tooling is used at specified cutting speeds. This isn't the sort of job to experiment on. The wrapped type dry bearing material lined bushes would probably work well if there is a suitable size.

          Clive.

          #276097
          Chris Gunn
          Participant
            @chrisgunn36534

            Mark, Oilite bushes are not good at taking heavy and intermittent side loads as would be experienced in this application, for that reason I would not use one for this application.

            Chris Gunn

            #276100
            Muzzer
            Participant
              @muzzer

              Machining sintered bushes is not recommended – I've discussed this with the manufacturers (GKN in my case). They are manufactured by sintering (from powder) rather than by machining to size. The surface finish suffers. As they are impregnated with lubricant, you may struggle to Loctite them in.

              Igus certainly make some pretty tasty (plastic) bearing materials but I couldn't comment on whether they would be suitable here.

              Have you looked for a "generic" replacement part? The heads for BP clones seem to be of very similar design and in some cases the finished heads are actually bought in from Taiwan etc. Perhaps the good JS could advise?

              #276112
              Mark Simpson 1
              Participant
                @marksimpson1

                Thanks Clive, Chris and Muzzer – your thoughts are much appreciated.

                Re: the oilite… the inner bearing surface would not be machined, only the exterior which has a step in it to aid location… I had not thought about the lube affecting bonding tho… maybe better with a bit of PB. The current "plastic" bearings are loose and rotation is stopped via the "plastic" key… The pulley is keyed to the shaft so there is no rotation; only slding whne you change speed… The key looks like Delrin and isn't very hard, I guess to act as an overload safety device.

                In these machines the Spindle bearings are seperate from the drive bearings, so the only side loads are from the belt which floats between two sprung pulleys…

                It seems that although these things are similar, there are a lot of differences in the materials used… apparently these were P.B. until value engineered

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                Edited By Mark Simpson 1 on 06/01/2017 15:24:00

                #276113
                Michael Gilligan
                Participant
                  @michaelgilligan61133
                  Posted by Mark Simpson 1 on 06/01/2017 13:12:18:

                  I've got an oilite bush with 35mm bore which could be skimmed down to fit and then stuck in with bearing retainer…

                  Hard to imagine I could do any real damage… but would love to hear form someone whose actually done one.

                  .

                  Mark,

                  I would think that [almost by definition] an Oilite bush will be incompatible with 'Bearing Retainer' … I am assuming that you mean something like the Loctite product.

                  MichaelG.

                  .

                  Noting your response to Muzzer … I now realise that my comment may have been superfluous: I offer this link in compensation:  http://www.bowman.co.uk/products/oilite_technical

                   

                  Edited By Michael Gilligan on 06/01/2017 15:35:27

                  #276210
                  Clive Foster
                  Participant
                    @clivefoster55965

                    Mark

                    Looking at the Bowman Company catalogue on Michaels link I see they do wrapped bushes with a steel case containing dry bearing material in you're desired 35 mm bore by 39 mm O/D. If you open the slot out a bit should do fine as a replacement for your old plastic bushes. I've used both bulk dry bearing material and similar wrapped bushes frequently over the years. More commonly in "get out of jail" type jobs than designed in and always with at least adequately satisfactory results. I'm told that the thin layer of dry bearing material on a steel backing is stronger and generally more satisfactory than an equivalent thickness of bulk plastic or dry bearing bushing.

                    Assuming prices aren't silly probably the easiest solution short of factory parts.

                    Looking for a less costly source from another brand of machine is unlikely to be successful as the general rule seems to be almost the same but different when it comes to Bridgeport clones so absolute interchangeability of internal parts is a complete lottery.

                    Clive.

                    #276217
                    Alan Waddington 2
                    Participant
                      @alanwaddington2

                      Think id be tempted to just stump up the money……assuming the ones you are replacing are original, the new ones should last a lifetime of hobby use.

                      #279835
                      Mark Simpson 1
                      Participant
                        @marksimpson1

                        I've put it all back together last night, and she runs again, smileymuch smoother and heaps quieter… I also got a maybe another 1000 rpm by fitting a new belt; the old one was worn to 34mm high as opposed to 38mm…

                        I bought a piece of 2" acetal from ebay, and used a very positive rake CCGT 09T304 NF25 tool to cut the acetal, it was surprisingly easy to machine and get a great finish; though as Clive said you have to wait a few seconds for it to cool down before final measuring. Made both bushes from a 6" length + one scrap one which I broke when sawing out the keyway.Keys were a couple of bits of Brass as that's what the manufacters now supply.. All glued together with loctite 638 after several de-greasings

                        It had the advantage that I could make the bushes and keys to the current size of the shafts,and longer to spanover the "scuff" on the pulley shaft; i was worried that fitting manufacturers bushes to the worn shafts would lead to accelerated failure of the new bushes.

                        I gained some experience in working with acetal and probably spent a day making/fitting bushes and keys; the rest was another day or two strip down, cleaning and lubricating the whole machine.

                        if (when) it fails again I will add 3 step pulleys and a simple V belt,and use my inverter for the steps in between.

                        Total cost less than £20 as opposed to £302.40. I did spend another £95 on a new belt but I would have had to do that anyway.

                        Thanks for the advice; it really helps to have this forum around.

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