Hello Charles,

I can't help you with the oiler, but there was an article in MEW a little while ago which described a refined needle design that I'm sure you could readily make.

Someone else on the Forum will I hope give you the MEW issue number.

The bent gib strip is easy enough to straighten with a nylon faced hammer over two softish fulcrum points, tap and measure until the strip is straight. Myford themselves in their overhauls did just that so that bent strips were reused.

Regards

Brian

Hi Charles,

Bits and pieces are always turning up on eBay and if careful they are generally a good buy. Apart from the main Myford website you could always try myford-lathes.com or lathespares.co.uk and I have no connection with them apart from being a very satisfied customer.

Mike

Charles,

I think there is some confusion over the type of oiler to which you are referring, and most of the comments above refer to the "glass bowl" drip feeds which can be fitted to any machine, and not the S7 specific type you are talking about.

Coincidentally, my oiler ran dry today so I took out the needle and took a pic and made a dimensioned sketch, which are below. I am assuming that the brass inserts pressed into the cast iron headstock are still there.

In the photo you can see a shiny ring on the taper where the normal seating is when "off".

Phil –

Moderators Note The thread shown should be 26tpi and not 20tpi as shown

Edited By Robbo on 27/01/2015 19:38:03

Edited By JasonB on 28/01/2015 10:03:21

That looks a very useful diagram but are you sure about the TPI?

1/4" BSF rings true for Myford fixings but wouldn't that be 26 TPI rather than 20?

HTH

Jon

Welcome Charles. I inherted similar Myford from my fartherwhen he moved to NZ. The oil resevoir always leaked i cured this by unscrewing the bezel cleaning the face which a bit rough and added an O ring, never leaked since.As mentioned prevoiusly I removed the tailstock and saddle assembly and thoroughly cleaned them of any build up of crud. Next clean the bed paying special attention to the running surfaces on the underside.

For cleaning I found the accumulation of suds oil on the surfaces was best done with warm water and detergent. Dry thoroughly use WD40 to remove any moisture wipe dry then oil with correct grade of slideway oil.

Replace felt wipers on the saddle. get a copy of the Myford book I think by Ian Bradley

Good luck

Have you tried contacting Myford with an enquiry for a new Top Slide Gib Strip? You might get a surprise and I do not just mean the price!

Making a new one is not a huge job, depends upon your skill and other equipment available perhaps someone nearby could help you.

Edited By KWIL on 28/01/2015 09:40:10

Charles,

At the risk of teaching my grandmother about eggs, etc……………….And as you are supposedly a beginner at this hobby……………….

You need to have made your new Control Screw (its proper Myford name) in the lathe all in one go so that it is absolutely concentric. Taper, rod, thread and then knob/knurl without taking the raw material out of the chuck. If you cannot machine screwcut the thread with what you have, then you must at least use a die holder, probably with assistance from the tailstock to hold it true to the work. Otherwise your taper will never be true to the brass insert, no matter how much you polish or fiddle with it.

I am confused with your comment about the amount of screw you can see (1-2 turns above the brass part). With the top dust cover in place on my machine I have ~3.4mm between the top of the dust cover front (its a casting so is variable) and the underside of the knob on the screw. You shouldn't be able to see the brass part as the top cover hides it, even if you have not got the spring. The spring itself fits loosly inside the top cover, bearing between the top of the brass insert and the underside of the knob. It is quite a weak spring, just acting as anti vibration. If you do as I do, just letting a few drops in now and then, when I use the machine, then the tap stays shut, so you don't really need the spring anyway.

How have you turned the new part if "the clutch does not engage". It was quite normal on this clutch to lock the clutch engaged, as some found it difficult to set up and keep set up (I never had troubles there), and wound the adjusting screw in to lock it "engaged". I would have thought you had parts missing (like the screw) if you could not engage, so your machine is permanently without drive. Search this site for the early clutch problems. Note that if you take the clutch apart, the shaft must be removed towards the tailstock as pre the instructions that you say you have.

Anyway you have one of the first 9500 or so S7's there, and the drip feed oiler mandrel principle was far superior to the later ones, provided no muck got past that Control Screw!

I have sent you a PM.

Dennis.