What did you do Today 2018

[Ian Skeldon 2Participant @ianskeldon2]

Shimmed the compound slide on my Chester db10, it was miles out running down hill. Needed a 0.2mm shim to get it bang on.

Then clocked the crosslide across it's width (110mm) the top face also runs down hill, is 0.08mm over 110mm excessive? I would prefer that it was bang on, but is it worth taking it apart and getting the slide way re-ground at a cost of whatever? Especially as the compound slide would still need to be reworked if I wanted to take out the shim.

Incidently, the lathe cuts parallel to a very tight tolerence (0.01mm over 120mm).

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Staying up late telescope minding does strange things to the imagination…

The crew of the Starship Enterprise were all secret model engineers, and there was a decent workshop on board.

One day the Klingon security officer, Sworf, was hard at work on the lathe. Commander Picard came in and showed him a broken old twentieth century machine. "Councillor Troi is most upset, she wants to repair a rip in her uniform, and for some reason she wants to use this old heirloom."

"Sureley it is some form of musical device, Commander? – It says 'singer' on the side."

"She insists it's some sort of apparatus for joining cloth, do you think you can fix it?"

"I don't know, but I will do my best."

"Make it sew, Mr Swarf!"

[Mark RandParticipant @markrand96270]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/06/2018 02:22:29:

"Make it sew, Mr Swarf!"

 

I see an interminable future editing early teen's fashion magazines in your future Mr Wyatt…

 

Yesterday, rather than today (actually Wednesday, says he, looking at the clock):- Tacked up the bits for an 8" riser for the Beaver Milling machine. Today was spent putting the root passes in at one end. I either need to improve the filtration on my dust extractor or work with the shed door wide open. The current 2 micron job just spreads the fine fumes evenly around the shed and I get a headache for the following 8 hours. I don't remember this with the original filter bag, but I put that through the washing machine and it shrank to the point that I can't fit it back on to the dust extractor .

Currently working on both improved filtration and extraction for more fresh air. If I get those right, I'm happy that I'll live longer.

 

 

Edited By Mark Rand on 22/06/2018 02:57:44

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

That's looking good, Mark

… Clever use of materials

MichaelG.

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Today I pulled my cheapie bench drill and vice from the back of the old shed, they had been in there for over eight years so wasnt looking forward to what I,d find.

I was quite surprised though, there was some surface rust but not as much I thought there may be.

Half an hour with a rotary wire brush and some 3 in 1, a few adjustments and they are serviceable.

The drill is a CH10 model, it states on the label "performance and power"…wow…

Actually it is not a bad little drill for a cheap import, I must have been lucky but the quill is very good for one of these machines and the chuck is half decent. Its quite useful for general drilling etc, so should see a fair bit of use.

Ron

[David CambridgeParticipant @davidcambridge45658]

After the hard work of getting my home made Lidar up and running over the last six months, I decided it was time for some quite reflection at the local church

Edited By David Cambridge on 23/06/2018 19:15:47

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Yes, I saw that earlier today, David – very interesting stuff! Looking forward to seeing your build video when you post it.

Murray

[NigeParticipant @nige81730]

This is the first finished item I have made I think, a second chuck key for the 4 jaw: First thing was to mill the flats

Drilled the hole for the handle using the new support though had to resort to an unconventional way of clamping as I have finished the clamp plate or drilled the fixing holes for it

Finished Key. it seems to be a workshop rule that chuck keys have old bolts for handles

Very pleased with the result AND it fits

[EugeneParticipant @eugene]

Well, yesterday in truth ….. attempted to fit a backplate to a four jaw chuck. Flopsville, cut the register too small (by a lot) and it's now sitting on the bench looking reproachful. Bother.

So today, I cannibalised another backplate off an old worn out three jaw and started to turn it to size. Learning from yesterday's effort I resorted to advanced metrology as below. Topside set to 7.5 deg. ish and a newly installed high tech micrometer dial and pointer.

So OK the dial is a bit of paper with 100 segments printed on it and the indicator is a parting off tool, but we all have to start somewhere!

Actually it's working out quite nicely; I'm not kidding myself that the thing is really cutting to tenths, but it's certainly controllable and creeping up to the "warm fit" as recommended by Tony at lathes.com. Fitting a micrometer to the topside and leadscrew is next job on the cards, but I needed it now.

So to the serious bit … this is first time I've turned cast iron and boy is it messy. Is there a recognised method or procedure for cleaning the lathe down? The bedways on this lathe are really crisp for it's age, and this stuff won't do them any good at all; very difficult to completely shift though. Anyone?

Eug

Edited By Eugene on 23/06/2018 23:30:05

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

Brush and Vacuum cleaner, then  and a wipe over with a clean cloth.

Tip: Place a temporary cover over the bed when cutting CI to catch waste.

 

Edited By Paul Lousick on 23/06/2018 23:56:07

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I laughed out loud… because the Hairy Bikers on Planet Rock read out my plea for a vegetarian alternative to Worcestershire Sauce. I think I can summarise their advice as 'make your own'

Cheers to Si and Dave!

Neil

[colin branniganParticipant @colinbrannigan54160]

Don't leave cast iron till the following day to clean up, don't wash the lathe down with suds, don't use an airline to clean the lathe. Dry brush and hoover it up then wipe down with dry cloth, I think that's what the foreman told me.

Colin

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

A strategically placed vacuum cleaner pipe catches a lot of it before it goes everywhere, then paper towels laid over the bed, not rags as if they get caught up it gets quite exciting

[V8EngParticipant @v8eng]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 26/06/2018 20:35:21:

I laughed out loud… because the Hairy Bikers on Planet Rock read out my plea for a vegetarian alternative to Worcestershire Sauce. I think I can summarise their advice as 'make your own'

Cheers to Si and Dave!

Neil

 

 

How about Tonkatsu sauce? Available in the U.K.

V8.

Edited By V8Eng on 26/06/2018 23:24:55

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Eugene, Don't you want the fine control on diameter? In which case you want the topslide closer to parallel to the bed.
You can recover the old backplate by screwing on a mild steel disc and having another go.
For CI cover the bed as mentioned above but rig the vacuum cleaner tube right next to the tool. Also good for dusty materials like wood and tufnol.

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

Posted by Bazyle on 27/06/2018 00:11:04:

Eugene, Don't you want the fine control on diameter? In which case you want the topslide closer to parallel to the bed.
You can recover the old backplate by screwing on a mild steel disc and having another go.
For CI cover the bed as mentioned above but rig the vacuum cleaner tube right next to the tool. Also good for dusty materials like wood and tufnol.

And really good for stringy plastics – HDPE, Nylon, even PVC – Stops the string from wrapping around the chuck and workpiece.

Joe

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

Just finished making and fitting some new cast iron bushings for a pedal block of an old VeloSolex moped for a mate.

The old ones were all wallowed out and the pedals were all over the show.

In the process of getting the pedal block off he butchered the retaining bolt and so I had another one to make too.

Perspective playing tricks with the photo there, the two are the same size honestly

Jon

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 27/06/2018 10:39:24

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

More gas valves for the steam railway dining car.

Going for a curry on the supper train in July – dunno whether they'll've fitted them.

Hey ho – routine stuff, but then a volunteer probably shouldn't be doing the 20-hour operations on huge components that take two blokes and an engine hoist to get 'em in the chuck or on the milling table…

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Hi everyone,

Had a go at turning some 316 Stainless for the first time. I'm making some track tensioning pistons for a mini-digger 90mm long x 30mm dia'.

It's actually ok for turning, apart from the stringy swarf which is quite nasty stuff. I was a bit surprised that the finish is better than the EN-3, EN8 or Silver-steel that I've tried to date.

Here's a photo of one turned to diameter, just needs to be cut and faced to length with a compound radius blended at one end.

Is there a way to get better (any) chip breaking from inserts, a different tip geometry CNMG perhaps?, or is it the nature of stainless to cut stringy? I'm using the carbide tips, photo below. Stainless is one of the materials recommended for these.

Speed is about 450RPM, feed is set to the slowest 0.83mm/rev according to the change gear panel. Maximum depth of cut was 0.5mm (0.25 per side).

Thanks,
Ed.

[Andy CarruthersParticipant @andycarruthers33275]

Fitted the DRO X axis to back of Tom Senior table and faced some spacers to hold sensors, tidied up lighting electrics too

[NigeParticipant @nige81730]

I wanted to tap an M8x1.25 hole today. My only metric taps and dies are a cheapo set from goodness knows where which I have had for ages but never used. Firstly there was only a plug tap at that size in the set and when I looked at it the thread form was so bad that there was no way the leading edges were ever going to start or cut properly. I'm resigned to the fact that I will by sets of 3 taps as i need them and get better quality HSS ones as I can. Set of 3 PRESTO on order from an eBay seller at £11.

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Ed – the manufacturer's data for those inserts recommends 90 – 200 m/min surface speed for Austenitic steels such as 316.

At a diameter of 30mm, that comes out at 950-2100rpm. Try increasing your speed to within this range.

The "BF"chipbreaker geometry is designed for feed rates of 0.08 – 0.18mm / rev and depth of cut of 0.2 – 1.8mm. Taking a cut of 0.8mm pre rev sounds heroic! Again, it doesn't sound ideal.

Murray

PS – on reflection, it seems very unlikely you are actually cutting at 0.83mm / rev. I suggest you check your sums and gear settings!

Edited By Muzzer on 01/07/2018 16:02:39

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Thank you Murray, it was a typo.

It should have been 0.083mm/rev. So I'm already in the feed and DOC ranges, just need to increase the spindle speed.

Regards,
Ed.

[Anonymous]

Posted by Ed Duffner on 01/07/2018 21:06:40:

It should have been 0.083mm/rev. So I'm already in the feed and DOC ranges, just need to increase the spindle speed.

You may find the second post in this thread, combined with the generic information in the first post, of use:

**LINK**

The results are not quite what one might expect from a simple view of inserts.

Andrew

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Thanks Andrew

Maybe I can put together some tests for the 316 similar to yours and I also have some EN-19T to turn and thread in the future.

Ed.

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