Taper Pin

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

I dont want to drag this topic too far away from the original question but, my question is relevant.

If one was going to cut a thread on the end of an existing pin, how do you hold it to turn a parallel section? Bear in mind its only really a one time job so its not worth making a fancy jig.

Ian

ts relevant to this topic

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Ian, thats the curly one, the way I'd do it would be to take a bit of steel, an inch or so long X say an inch dia, drill, and ream the taper, remove from chuck, cut a slot down one side, put the pin in the hole and put it back in the chuck. It does not have to be perfectly concentric, but that should be very near, someone will shoot me down, but I taught me how to use the lathe, and I some times get it right, and I'v got a big junk box. Ian S C

[mickParticipant @mick65121]

Neil.

Sorry I misunderstood your first post, all taper pins are to a BS of 0.250'' per foot, so it doesn't matter how long the pin is it will fit the entire bore over its length, with the remainder sticking out of the other end, so if your prepared to part with one of your longer pins, please e-mail me and I promise to give it a good home.

Mick

[JDEngParticipant @jdeng]

Posted by Bazyle on 18/09/2012 13:20:12:

Are all taper pins the same taper angle? Surely not. It seems in the past every opportunity to be different was taken.

Imperial taper pins are tapered at 1 in 48; metric are 1 in 50.

John.

[Anonymous]

Quickest way to make a holder for the taper pin for machining a parallel portion on the end is as follows. Take a piece of aluminium rod, put it in the lathe and drill a through hole a bit bigger than the small end of the taper pin. Then drill a bigger hole part way through that is the same size, or a thou or two smaller, that the large end of the taper pin. Remove from lathe, slit one side with a hacksaw, put said taper pin in holder and knock it in until the small end pokes out and the taper pin is hard up against the smaller hole. The holder can then be used to turn said parallel section. Of course you need to get the size and length of the smaller hole correct so that the required amount of the taper pin sticks out, but that shouldn't be difficult to do.

Regards,

Andrew

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

Mick

Try this site they seem to have fair selection available in low volume lots. If it wears you might need an extra one or two .

Cheers

Martin

[mickParticipant @mick65121]

Thanks Martin, I've now bought 4 pins that are 0.062'' too big at the large diameter and a inch and a half too long, but nothing a 6'' angle grinder won't sort out once fitted.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

I'm revisiting this thread because I found a problem with my Adept, and I'm very glad I did before it's too late

 

**LINK**

 

The taper pin is designed to be a tight (non-moving) fit on the mount sides and a loose (but shake-free) fit on the clapper

 

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I checked my Adept and it's the wrong way round, my pin moves in the shoulders and is jammed in the clapper

So after a year or so of heavy use it would have worn the shoulders hole into an oval, a not easy to replace part made of a casting

will need to be sorted asap

 

So it's well worth checking out if you're a shaper owner

 

edit:

I will also need to drill an oil hole into the top of the clapper from the looks of things

It looks like Adept didn't set them up for heavier use, just a bit of hobby work

Edited By Ady1 on 06/10/2012 10:44:17

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

Ady

While not desirable it wouldn't have been too much of a problem as the holes on the support could have been reamed out to a slighter larger diameter and if needed a slighter larger taper pin fitted. In fact the process to accommodate wear on the clapper involves reaming both clapper and support structure.

That said it is far better to have it assembled correctly in the first place rather than finding the problem later and then having to find a solution. The lack of an oil hole in the clapper seems a bit of an oversight by the manufacturer unless there are oil holes for the taper pin in the support then their modus operandi might be slightly different.

Cheers

Martin

PS

Just had a look at pictures of an Adept shaper and can't see any oiling points on the head. As you say perhaps they didn't think the loading would require separate oiling points and maybe they were relying on any oil being applied to the clapper finding its way into operating bearing surfaces.

Edited By Martin W on 06/10/2012 11:00:21

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

Fixed now so I'm a happy bunny

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