Recommissioning lathe size of hole to cut for belt

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

Hi Bodger , Kieth ,

 

Have made a bit more progress with the main casting today . I had been thinking about this for several days and decided to see if I could find something the same size as the existing curve on the side which was correct. The wonderful man who cast these items confessed he was not able to cast this side as he needed more experience, well don't we all as i could not cast this at all.

Well the good news is that its exactly the same same size as a new £1.00 coin and this can be used to draw a line around. I gently  nicked it back from this line with an angle grinder. Go Carefully. Then finished with a small file. This is the result.

Edited By Martin Newbold on 06/05/2016 17:32:48

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

The wonderful man who cast these items confessed he was not able to cast this side as he needed more experience, well don't we all as i could not cast this at all.

Hi Martin, could`t agree more, i have cast ally into what would best be described as lumps, one of said lumps being the large pulley in my one pic ! & a pair of rocking plumber blocks to carry the counter shaft behind said pulley, Nice work with the angle grinder, very adept bit of bodging all looking good, well done, hoping you keep posting pics as things progress , looking forward to seeing finished tumbler reverse……….b

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

Yes Bodge there are some wonderful people out there and when you sit and make this stuff yourself it gives you a new feeling of what the original people making these items were doing . It is fabulous to have groups like this . Am hopefully going to cut slots next which is a bit of a challenge as have been told that the 1/8" Fluted mills just destroy themselves when you try to use them . I am hoping I can achieve these with a rotating saw on an abhor . Will post more when I have this done.

I have had a test layout with the gears marking out the positions . But the rough surface is just too bumpy to give an accurate placement. It is noticeable that the tolerances here are very precise as the gears are quite near to the wall of the quadrant casing. I hope when they are machined this will be better.

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

Hmmm damn it

Broke the drill in the quadrant I was drilling to day and its a cobalt drill so you know what this means the quadrant is fubar as when you try to drill it is slides of the broken drill is fed up damn drill bits !

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Don't panic. Make a spark eroder.

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

Hi Bazyle neat idea its a bit past this as the drill i tried to drill it out with span off into the material, will try and get hold of a new quadrant. or will have to make the whole quadrant from a lump of mild steel

Martin

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Martin,

Unless you have done extreme damage, you should be able to cut out the plug surrounding the broken drill, with some sort of tubular cutter.

There was a recent thread about doing similar on small woodscrews … think in terms of the same general idea.

MichaelG.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

perhaps you can make a core drill that makes a big hole around the offending bit and plug it then start again.

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

Hi Martin

could you turn the part over and drill trough from the other side , till you think you have just about to touch the point of the broke drill ( use 1/8 drill to start with ) then open up to 3/16 , then use a punch to knock broken drill bit out.

This would be my prefer`d method if at all possible , though it will need some careful alignment , and some ability to sense how close you can get to just lightly touch the tip of the broken drill, its do able but not easy

………….b

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

HI Bodge I did .

Its was all going ok until it hit the cobalt drill and bounced of the embedded drill, the result was a deep hole which has gone askew and rendered it unusable as its to deep to resurface sadly and the blow out from the material was probably softer. I ether have to hope the chap that sold these has another quadrant or will have to make one out of mild steel

Martin

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

Hi Martin . Well steel is ok to work with, just make sure your drill bits sharp or use a new Dormer or equivalent brand 3/32 or 1/8 in hs or hss and some cutting oil applied with a small paint brush ( i usually use about about 5-600 rpm ) for pilot holes. when the drill starts to cut watch and check drill is cutting perfectly vertical and not bowing and things should be ok…………b

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

Looks like a piece of 5/8" is going to needed to be ordered for the quadrant to make one myself as the chap has none he can sell me sadly . Did get on much further with main casting today cut slots with an arbour and brass made washers on a arbour . Had to turn the mill 90 degrees which was interesting and had help as it was extremely heavy. Finished slots look great. I sill have to find a expanding manderal to put this back in lathe to cut of surface am thinking i am going to cut this of with a saw first so that i don't need to cut so much on the lathe on the expanding manderal as think this might be a bit interesting to hold. Think the dril i drilled was to small as was trying to be precise on the positions on the quadrant. I guess cutting a hole and putting in a bearing is out as its to near the edge of the quadrant. Am really not sure how to machine another quadrant from steel as its a complicated design and will have to get on the brain trainer to think about how to accomplish this 😐

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By Martin Newbold on 09/05/2016 15:57:39

Edited By Martin Newbold on 09/05/2016 15:58:55

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

Someone suggested that iron may be better than steel for the quadrant?

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

Does anyone stock cast iron in sizes 4" x 4" x 5/8" please?

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

Hi Martin

I don`t see`s it matters much iron or steel, the main thing is to get the holes in the right place so`s gears mesh properly when placed on the pinion shafts. when drilling the holes you could start the hole with a centre drill ( 1/8 in drill tip. ) then change to a 1/8 twist drill , then open out to size . Are the pinion shafts to be a press fit in the plate ?. As for cutting out of bms, hacksaw, grinder & files , though you could remove some of the bulk of it by mill or shaper then use grinder to shape the rads, if don`t feel much like hacksaw work . I don`t think the outside dimensions of the plate need to be any better than +/- 0.005 …. the pinion shaft hole centres should have tighter limits for spacing…………..b

there are some suppliers will be able to cut you piece  CES might be able to help or Live steam models have a look on line

Edited By bodge on 09/05/2016 21:25:54

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

Hi Bodge spoke with my friends last night about the quadrant. If he can get the cobalt out we are going to try cast iron puddle welding the holes up with arc rods with not so much Nickel in them as we can find and mill flat to get the block back to what it was . Was hoping the guy who sold them was able to confirm what material they are cast in

Was going to cut the inner section off last night but went to jig it up in my lathe and found the lathe saddle was loosing a packing piece behind the saddle that was moving out from behind . I fixed this instead will have another go at cutting of inside possibly with a rotating saw wheel next week. Still don't like the idea of adjustable mandrel turning it as am not sure how strong this will hold it especially as it has a wing quadrant to rotate which will try to pull it off might have to mill this instead to get a good face and hold it in an arbour that bolts it in situe which will be stronger.

Martin

 

Edited By Martin Newbold on 10/05/2016 08:36:40

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

Well retrieved Quadrant my friend had managed to re-drill out the cobalt drill was pleased but the hole through drill skidding still is on reverse. Have checked out with gears and think centre one needs moving over from the drawing sent to me by Geoff and Keith to allow gears to mesh correctly. Am going to drill top gear out much larger and fit a larger base into the quadrant this will meant the gear will have to go on from front . Will probably use a washer and Circlip to fix it unless anyone else has a better idea. I Cut back extra material from main casting but need to get my expanding abhor to finish this part off. Am still amazed he managed to drill out drill his equipment must be rock solid compared to mine

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Phew!

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

Am going to make stud for second size gear first and see if this fits on the lower gear. Then check small gear position and re drill accordingly larger. I will then decide to make the smaller gear a fitment from the back and secure with washer and a Cir-clip or something on front else if someone recommends something better.

 

Edited By Martin Newbold on 16/05/2016 19:27:52

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

I recently upgraded my old Drummond motor from 1/4 HP to 1/2 HP and it's made a big difference to the old metal muncher, they really benefit from the extra grunt. I've only ever used old British motors though, I know nothing about the newer stuff.

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

Yes Ady1 , what did you buy please and how are you getting on with it as have lost £200.00 this this supermarket lot. The drive courier was booked by courier today for the motor so have none of it now and the label said for destruction

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

I just used ebay and waited for an old 1/2 HP 1425rpm motor to pop up

My original 1/4HP has been worked really hard and my shaper from the 1950s has a 1/2HP which has been great too and so I stuck with "what works for me", I can work my gear hard sometimes

The old British stuff was made to run forever kinda thing, it's an old AEI from the 1960s and cost me 45bananas including post but you have to be patient because they are getting harder to find, it's often someone having a clearout when they appear

It looks like crap and weighs a flippin' ton (so it's a good heatsink!) but she purrs like a pussycat

Edited By Ady1 on 17/05/2016 10:37:55

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

Hi Martin

I go with Ady on the subject of old British motors, 1/4 or 1/3 hp would be fine for your lathe. Adys lathe and my main lathe 4 x 22 are bigger heavier lathes so do benefit from a bit more grunt and as Ady says 1/2 hp is a nice size , but they are heavy the 1/2 hp i`m using is a dual voltage so has two sets of start winding`s,so t`ant `arf heavy !!. always worth buying if you see one for sale in the small adds local papers, etc, and yes they do usually look like crap even if their a bit rattle`y its only going to be a case of new bearings and, or a bit of tinkering about with the c/f switch

Pleased to hear you got over the quadrant plate problem, I think if i ever get round to it, will make it all in steel which is not a problem ! in the mean time for the amount of use it gets will just stay with the reversing stud. Interesting arrangement on the the banjo arm on your lathe

it's an old AEI from the 1960s . Thats a nearly new one Ady ! got a 1/4 hp dates from sometime around WW1 all cast iron, and still running ok, the motor on the 4 x 22 dates from WW2 ( so does the lathe ) and does run nice and quiet as they should do !……………..b

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

This is how far other cog is out.

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