Quick Change tool post advice

[VicParticipant @vic]

These look pretty good to me Iain but worth asking if anyone has got one to see what they think of them.

It looks like a small copy of the well regarded Dickson type.

**LINK**

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

Well, John.

I've learned something. Probably something basic and obvious, but something! I can drive the lathe with the big handle on the left! The Mangle Handle is it called?

I went out and tried it. The results are no worse than when using the topslide I think, although it's harder to keep a smooth movement.

I shall experiment more. I don't like my topslide. It only has a small range of movement and it wiggles around as I turn the wheel. I think the leadscrew is a bit bent.

Iain

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Posted by Vic on 06/03/2016 17:50:04:

Posted by Ajohnw on 06/03/2016 17:40:58:

The compound slide on a Boxford is well supported. The slide itself is also very thick.

John

What's that got to do with Iain's mini lathe, it's half the size of a Boxford?

It fits in with other parts of the discussion – I didn't start this aspect off did I so why select me.

Your post doesn't fit in with the topic either.

John

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[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Iain,

Try using both hands on the wheel and pass the wheel between both to get a constant movement.

We were taught this way as apprentices so you didn't get pause lines in the work. One line got you a thick ear.

Years later it's something I can't relate to when people fit the handles like on your cross slide and top slide [ I know you didn't fit them ] over round handles as looking better ?

I even removed the ball handles off my brand new big mill and replaced them with hand wheels, I personally feel far more comfortable with hand wheels.

Or mangle wheels as they will now be known in future

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I had the same thing John including no power feeding. Some of the fingers on 2 hands is the only way really.

If the compound waggles about when it's used it sounds like the gib strips are set way too loose to me. Hoping it's easy to do on this particular lathe the best way to do it is to remove the lead screw, oil it up well and then push it about by hand. There should be some resistance to movement. Personally I always set them a little tighter than the cross slide on the compound. It's not a 2 min job and is likely to take longer. It needs tiny adjustments of the screws.If it slides an then grabs that means it may be a tiny touch too tight or it's being pushed too fast and the oil film is breaking down.

On the cross slide if it can be set well when the tool would be close to the centre and is ok for a few inches back and then gets stiff it usually means the slide is worn – unlikely on a compound slide.

John

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[JonParticipant @jon]

Posted by Iain Downs on 06/03/2016 15:08:08: One which appears to have two dovetails one to pull the holder in and one to be pulled against. I think the one JOn hates is of this type. Arceurotrade have one of this sort (which is not to say, that theirs is non-rigid, etc…). I think this is also how the 'Bison' type work Iain

Not so much that Iain its the way theyre made, cheap as chips.
The industry standard all others are compared with use something of similar lines the Dickson.

As above if don't intend using top slide nip the gib strips up.
Johns fixed idea is supremely as rigid as you will ever get better doing away with top slide bolting direct. Done it with last lathe but not current, you will be amased what moves and where.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by John Stevenson on 06/03/2016 18:49:43:

Years later it's something I can't relate to when people fit the handles like on your cross slide and top slide [ I know you didn't fit them ] over round handles as looking better ?

You mean like these, as fitted to this lathe of superior quality?

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

Even when the gib is really tight, there is movement as the handle turns – consistent with the position of the handle. It's not much – a tiny number of thou, but visible.

I actually do get the technique for being smooth (well on the lathe – in real life, I've never quite managed it!), and am pretty sure that's what I was taught at school – oh so many many years ago – but it does take some time to perfect it.

I'm a bit inclined to try and lock the top slide gib and take off the handle – it gets in the way – and see how I get on with that using the saddle handle.

Iain

[John FieldingParticipant @johnfielding34086]

The mentioning of tool holder clamping screws belling out with use is a common problem if you need to remove the screws later. I normally turn the last couple of threads down to 1mm or so less than the thread crest so when it does get belled out you can still remove the screw without damaging the tapped holes. Easy enough to do by running a nut onto the thread the same AF as the capscrew head and holding in the 3-jaw chuck.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Like J S, as an Apprentice, one of the first things that we were taught was to feed steadily, using both hands

I use the Apron Handwheel, or the Topslide Handwheel, as required. Topslide has to be used when turning short tapers, such as trimming up centres, or making holders for ER collets.

My far eastern lathe has Handwheels, thank goodness, preferable to the ball handles on smaller Myford ML7 which preceded it.

To remove bell ended toolpost clamp screws is a pain, since it involves trying to hold the screw stationary whilst filing, in situ, on every one, until they can be removed and tidied up properly. Best remedied as soon as noticed, before becoming a major problem.. Stitch in time and all that!

Howard

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Howard Lewis on 09/03/2016 17:45:31:

To remove bell ended toolpost clamp screws is a pain, since it involves trying to hold the screw stationary whilst filing, in situ, on every one, until they can be removed and tidied up properly

Dremel the ends off

Neil

[Martin NewboldParticipant @martinnewbold]

If you look at your existing tool holder it will come off and the cross saddle usually by an Allen bolt at one side. Removing this will allow the cross slide to come off. If you look at your cross side and it’s like mine you will see that it has a cylinder which protrudes which will not be 19 mm. This is mounded to the slide by Allen bolts underneath, Two I believe, which screw the flange and cylinder for the slide onto the bed. >>

If i get to this point and my motor runs ok I was hoping to turn mine down to 19 mm to take a Dickinson. It should be fairly solid as the existing tool post on mine is very solid. I have not got this far alas as yet.>>

Am sure in general the moderator is right too as a lot of these slides will be worn. Make sure you check the rigidity of your post before you try to change it, as if it’s not rigid to start with it wont give very good tolerance >>

[Roger Williams 2Participant @rogerwilliams2]

Iain, if your lathe has a leadscrew, why don't you motorise it a with small motor (wiper motor), controller, DC power feed etc at the RH end of the bed ?. I converted an ML7 with the same kit having got the idea off the net. Worked a treat. Just a thought. Have a look on Utube.

[Iain DownsParticipant @iaindowns78295]

Hi, All – and thanks.

I seem to be stacking things to do up MUCH MUCH faster than I can ever do them!

My immediate task is to get my mill motored up. Mainly because I've got 4 thick, big plates to trim up for the headstock for my lathe project and I would get mega-bored turning the wheels by hand. Then I've got a mount to build for an LED desk lamp so I can see what I'm doing with the motors drive the mill.

Then I need to think about if I need to trim 5 – 8 thou off my tailstock to get good vertical alignment. And turn the spindle for my lathe project.

I am tempted by a quick change toolpost and I'm tempted to replace the topslide to fit one – we'll see!

Iain

[andrew lynerParticipant @andrewlyner71257]

Posted by mechman48 on 05/03/2016 12:21:08:

I have a Dickson clone QCTP ( Bison – steel ) with numerous holders; for rigidity I have my tool post set so that the compound slide is wound back some to allow the holder to sit over the end of the compound slide so giving support to the holder whereby the cutting forces are pushing down onto the compound slide as opposed to having a lot of overhang over the edge of the slide. I also have made a brass knurled locking screw which I keep nipped up on to the gib strip to eliminate any slackness on the compound slide. works well for my machine.

George.

This is a bit of a necropost but it's still relevant and the problem of tools dipping down when they catch is always with me. It tends to go away when I nip up the Gibb strip but that's fiddly, too. Life improved a lot for general stability and chatter when I made up a Saddle Clamp and a similar screw-down of the compound to the cross slide could also help. I'd bet that others must have done something like that too. (There's not a lot of meat in that area though and I wouldn't want to affect the strength.

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