Myford cross slide bearing mod

[GrottoParticipant @grotto]

I was wondering if anyone had fitted the arc euro Myford ML7 Cross Slide Leadscrew Thrust Bearing Modification?

I've got a reasonable amount of back lash and as thought this may help, but wondered if anyone had tried it?

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/MYF001/myford-cstb-mod.html

[GrottoParticipant @grotto]

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

It wont reduce the backlash if you have a worn leadscrew and nut. On the other hand, if your back lash is not due to the leadscrew and nut, you should be able to eliminate all but one or two thou by adjusting the cross slide handle and lock nut.

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

I have done this mod on my ML10, be aware that you have to machine the housing that the leadscrew fits into.

What I did was to borrow the bracket off my vertical slide to machine and when finished put the one off the cross slide onto the vertical slide.

It does make a difference as you can all but eliminate leadscrew slack but I also fitted a new nut as well.

[Enough!Participant @enough]

Posted by Clive Hartland on 27/12/2017 22:28:29:

I have done this mod on my ML10, be aware that you have to machine the housing that the leadscrew fits into.

Or (on the ML7 at least), you can machine a whole, new simplified housing …. which is arguably easier since there are no independent alignment operations.

[Nick HulmeParticipant @nickhulme30114]

Posted by Bandersnatch on 28/12/2017 01:08:40:

Posted by Clive Hartland on 27/12/2017 22:28:29:

I have done this mod on my ML10, be aware that you have to machine the housing that the leadscrew fits into.

Or (on the ML7 at least), you can machine a whole, new simplified housing …. which is arguably easier since there are no independent alignment operations.

Or you can CNC mill the bearing pocket as I did on my Super 7 and then it's just one operation

[Gordon AParticipant @gordona]

I carried out this mod on a used housing bought from a popular online auction site. All work was done on an ML7 following the instructions supplied and the results are very good.

It makes adjustment of the backlash in the housing very easy and gives a smoother feel to the operation of the cross slide.

Another benefit is that it eliminates wear between the housing and the shaft of the screw, but as mentioned above, it will not eliminate any wear in the screw itself or the whitemetal nut.

IMHO, for the cost of the parts this is a worthwhile modification. (No connection with ArcEuro, just a satisfied customer).

[GrottoParticipant @grotto]

I haven't got a mill, so mod will have to be done on the lathe (as shown on Arc Euro site). It doesn't look too difficult.

I'm also not sure I have the required experience or skill to make a new on from scratch, even if I had a mill, maybe one day…

I may keep an eye out for a housing online, as I'm nervous If it goes wrong I'll end up in a worse position, as getting a replacement down here would be difficult & expensive

Will also check if the housing on my vertical slide is interchangeable.

Thanks for the advice

[GrottoParticipant @grotto]

Checked the housing on my vertical nslide and it's a different size, so I guess that's not an option…

[brickyParticipant @bricky]

There was an article on taking up backlash I think in a Model Engineer magazine,where the slack was taken up with a copper pipe slid over the leadscrew from front to back allowing enough space for a strong spring to act on the rear of the topslide .The copper was slightly bell mouthed to keep the spring central.It was in a recent magazine and someone will have seen it and can comment on it's use in your situation.

Frabk

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The Copper tube and Spring backlash eliminator was in M E W, a while ago.

Looking back, quickly, as far as MEW 241, it did not seem to appear as a separate article, and was not "headlined" in Readers Tips.

It may have been part of an article on a Myford Series 7 lathe.

Needs a more thorough search of back numbers, but it is there, somewhere.

Howard

[MalcParticipant @malc]

Hi “Grotto”

I fitted the cross slide mod to my ML7. I replaced the cross slide end bracket with the top slide bracket as a temporary measure. To use the top slide bracket I made an adaptor plate which enabled me to fit it to the cross slide. This was simply a 6mm thick plate measuring 90 x 20mm. 2 holes were drilled in the plate to line up with the threaded holes on the end of the cross slide. Another 2 holes were drilled and threaded 2BA to accept the top slide bracket. I seem to remember that I had to space out the cross slide screw to compensate for the difference in the length of the 2 brackets. A bit of a “mackel up” but it was sufficient for the job. To steady the top slide (as it now had no end cap) I tightened one of the gib strip screws. I bored out the cross slide bracket by mounting it on a piece of flat stock held in the 4 jaw chuck, much the same as suggested by Arc Eurotrade. After doing the cross slide bracket and replacing it I also did the top slide bracket. Considering the cost the mod is well worth doing, the action is much smoother. True, it doesn’t reduce the end play, that is wear in the screw assembly. I have found that fitting a DRO takes the guesswork out of end play problems. Food for thought if you decide to have a go at it!

Malc.

[GrottoParticipant @grotto]

Thanks for that,

I've ordered some bearings, and when they arrive will have a go at modifying cross slide & vertical slide.

Probably be back with a few questions!

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