Lathe bench construction

[Peter BondParticipant @peterbond14804]

I had been looking at a proper Myford stand for the ML7, but a) getting hold of one at a reasonable price has so far eluded me and b) I've just been given a load of 40x80x3mm slotted angle. As such, I was wondering if this would be rigid enough to support the ML7 with 90 degree joints as-is, or possibly with either cross-bracing or ply panels on the sides.

For the top I was wondering about using a kitchen worktop; I've unearthed a sheet of 2mm stainless that could be bent into a chip tray (might even weld the corners too); raising blocks I'll buy rather than make.

I could put some more steel under themounting points to help prevent the top sagging, but I don't know if this is overkill. I was also wondering if there would be enough vibration to loosen the nuts – threadlock or welding the joints are possible workarounds.

Has anyone used slotted angle for their lathe benches?

(Added – my EBay search has just thrown MEW #81 as containing an article on building a stand.  Would it be possible for someone to precis it, please, so I can glean some idea on whether it's worth buying a back issue?)

Edited By Peter Bond on 08/02/2015 17:01:23

[Peter BondParticipant @peterbond14804]

[john fletcher 1Participant @johnfletcher1]

Sounds good to me, I did the same several years ago using Dexion. Four vertical legs, six other pieces, 3 at the front and three at the back, horizontal. Then six smaller bits front to rear, all bolt together. On the top was a piece of thick kitchen work top. A shelf half way down, all was screwed to the wooden floor, making every thing rigid. At the evening class I made a sheet steel tray just like the Myford one, as they were tricky at the corners, I first made a news paper pattern. I think you have got it cracked.Ted

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Peter,

I think it should be possible to use the angel irons you have, cross-braces and plywood panels is also a good idea, it makes the stand much stiffer. Some extra steel under the mounting points is also a good idea. When I made a stand for my 290 type lathe I used 50mm square tube welded together and 15mm thick steel under the mounting points (see my album)

It has been discussed earlier on this site. I don't know if you have read it, if not it's here.

Thor

 

Edited By Thor on 08/02/2015 17:27:58

[Gray62Participant @gray62]

Hi Peter,

The article in MEW #81 describes the conversion of a Boxford lathe stand to suit a Myford type lathe, probably not what you are looking for.

Graeme

[VicParticipant @vic]

What you've suggested sounds fine to me Peter. I used two bits of 18mm ply screwed together but kitchen worktop should be fine. Also have a look at some of the table tops avalable at Ikea.

[charadamParticipant @charadam]

What about a garage tool trolley / cabinet – storage and shiftability.

[Peter BondParticipant @peterbond14804]

At first, I thought you meant one of the stand-alone trolleys – they're quite flimsy (my HT oven is on one at the moment). The basic Clarke toolchests aren't really all that strong, I'd want to beef it up a lot if I were to go that route.

As for worktops – Ikea has kitchen worktops at £20, which seemed to provide an inexpensive solution.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Leave the kitchen stuff for the house. A couple of sheets of decent ply (not OSB) top with real wood edgeing and filling in the back and sides to make it ridgid as mentioned above. Real wood along the floor line in case of damp seeping up and to avoid tearing if it ever gets moved. Then it will be good for the next fifty years along with its lathe.

[frank brownParticipant @frankbrown22225]

Sort of thing I would do. I would use mending washers and proper 5/16" bolts to get a good tight fit dexion to dexion. Fit 1//2" + ply into ends and middle dividers and back to stop racking. I used an oversized car (lorry?) drip tray for my swarf tray, just needs a bit of ply under and some rubber to stop things clanging.

Little tip, cut slots under the bottom member, so you can get a crowbar in there to lift one end to get your first roller in. You might want to move it one day.

Frank

[Brian WoodParticipant @brianwood45127]

Hello Peter,

I built my whole machimery bench onto a framework of Dexion slotted angle, it carries the Myford ML7B, a Dore-Westbury vertical mill and a New Progress 1/2 inch capacity bench drill.

I just made sure that there were Dexion bearers under the load points for the machines with the weight carried vertically down through more angle as legs, all screwed down to a concrete floor cast onto a membrane sheet.

The top is flooring grade chip board with thin hardboard packing to level the steps in the joints from the framing and counterbored sockets to contain the bolt heads, the whole lotis topped off with a sheet of hardboard under the swarf trays.

It has never moved in 15 years and the space underneath has tool and equipment drawers all fully loaded so there is a fair mass supported on the Dexion frame.

I made my own raising blocks from 2" x 4" hollow box section steel of 6 mm wall section and bolted the machines through those to the Dexion framing.

I hope that helps you decide

Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 09/02/2015 19:11:12

Edited By Brian Wood on 09/02/2015 19:13:11

[Keith LongParticipant @keithlong89920]

Peter

Unless you particularly want a metal swarf/drip tray, have a look in your local garden centre for such things as "Grow Bag Trays" or gravel trays for under plant pots. Pretty cheap and totally rustproof, and quite sturdy.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Keith Long on 09/02/2015 19:25:17:

Peter

Unless you particularly want a metal swarf/drip tray, have a look in your local garden centre for such things as "Grow Bag Trays" or gravel trays for under plant pots. Pretty cheap and totally rustproof, and quite sturdy.

.

Well-said, Keith

My ML7R came with one of these, and it seems very suitable.

MichaelG.

[Peter BondParticipant @peterbond14804]

Well, the raising blocks have arrived from RDG (as have the M8 coach bolts); the blocks provide an interesting bit of fun – the studs aren't terribly long. Do I swap them out for longer lengths of studding (5/16 BSF? No idea, I'm right off Imperial threads right now; they're almost M8 but not quite), make up a nut plate and inset that into the top, drill through the blocks and screw them to the surface or just use sheet steel thin enough to bolt through for the surface?

Like the idea of grow bag trays, that seems a neat hack (in the original sense of the word).

Edited By Peter Bond on 10/02/2015 17:23:56

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