Hex Wrench

[VicParticipant @vic]

I’ve seen several of these used in various videos on YouTube. As I’ve not seen any for sale I’m guessing machinists are making their own from ordinary hex keys? I’m just wondering how they’re securing them in the boss? Anyone made one, is it useful?

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Dim memory suggests that I’ve seen instructions to make one by using the keys themselves to broach out a round hole to hex shape and securing with braze. I guess it works given appropriate care.

Not used a multiple hex key of this style but I have tried to use a similarly arranged screwdriver set when helping out off-site and depending on someone else’s tools. Bought a whole new layer to the concept of bloody stupid inconvenient thing. If it had been mine time between attempted first use and human powered orbital insertion would not have been inconveniently measured in milli seconds.

My experience with all these multiple tool thingies is that all the multiple bits get in the way when trying to use the one that fits whatever you re working on. If you must have a multiple hex keys in one tool the penknife style fold up type are merely seriously awkward.

Frankly the concept of these multiple tools saving space and keeping things to hand really doesn’t hold up.( Except, perhaps in the case of those sheet steel multiple cut out things for pedal bikes as you have neither space or weight to spare in the  carry on the bike toolkit.) Objectively they take up pretty much as much room as a more sensible storage and the sticky out bits get in the way. Far better to have a nice little hard case set up like this :-

Effective space take up in the toolbox / tool drawer is about the same as the multi armed horror and you have all the sizes, both metric and imperial. Strong enough to park things on if need be and doesn’t self destruct after a few years like the ever (un)popular plastic wallets. That set in the case is maybe 40 years old so the plastic hinge has held up well, although it’s not my first line set. Just don’t get me started on the ring with springs to holds keys thingies, the guy who popularised those is well up on the list of deserving cruel and unusual punishments.

Clive

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

Try these their handy

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Probably a good idea, perhaps with one square one too for keeping all the keys used on chucks, toolposts, etc on the lathe in one place.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

My Dad still has something similar he made in teh 50s when he had a job as a tool setter. They are brazed into a steel hub.

I suppose if you were into hole casting you could cast teh hub around four keys and no risk of them coming loose in the hub.

The 3-way spiders are quite common with a plastic middle https://www.unicycle.com/y-allen-key-set/

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

Factory maintenance blokes used to make their own long shaft TEE wrenches using old Allen Keys. The keys would have the short end cut off and neatly ground square with a tiny chamfer. The shaft would be drilled with an ‘across the flats’ size drill. The the shaft end would be heated and the key pressed or hammered in. Tee handle fitted in a cross drilled hole and there you are. The hex keys never fell out to my knowledge.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Knobs similar to those in Bernards picture holding standard 1/4″ hex bits, albeit ratchet rather than fixed, are readily available for under £10 for three on E-Bay and from other sources. You can also find fixed versions with T wing heads for similar money.

For me thats buy, not make territory in the unlikely event of not already having  something adequate in stock.

I find the my T handle sets are great get out of jail card.

“My name is Clive. I’m 71 and have been a toolaholic for over 60 years. Got lots’n lots of stuff.”

Clive

[VicParticipant @vic]

Thanks for your thoughts Clive, I must admit I’m in two minds on this one. My favourite hex drivers are Bondhus T handle wrenches, especially the long versions. I think for some jobs though I should get some of the screwdriver type as well.

 

[Vic]

On 10 August 2025 at 11:06 Vic Said:

[…] I’m just wondering how they’re securing them in the boss? […]

An ideal opportunity to test your favourite anaerobic retainer

drill a hole in which the hex is just a light press fit … get everything scrupulously clean, and assemble using Loctite 638 or whatever.

MichaelG.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

Make the boss out of aluminium and make the holes just over the flat size and force the keys about 4 diameters in and they are unlikely to ever come loose, put a taper lead in on the key ends. If you try pressing them in, be sure to have a plate between you and the parts just in case of accidents.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

Yes Clive Ive seen those but only in one size which is why made my own.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Vic

My screwdriver hex keys are ball ended ones. Bought from RS ages ago.

I find that when the slenderness of a screwdriver handle is required there is no need to cope with serious torque. But the flexibility of the ball end can be very handy. So far the T handled sets (also from RS) ones have done all I need for initial loosening or final tightening.

If slim and long in both key and handle were ever essential I’d make a one time special. Several times considered tracking down some long series 1/4″ hex shank ones, most seem to be around 6″ long, but the need has never been there.

Clive

[VicParticipant @vic]

I’ve actually got one of the RS ball ended screwdrivers somewhere in 6mm I think. I’ll have to try and find it. In the meantime I saw this little set that should make a good addition to the Bondhus T handle hex drivers I already have. I also have Facom drivers in .9 and 1.3 but haven’t needed them so far.

[Bill PhinnParticipant @billphinn90025]

I think I disappeared down the rabbit hole of hex driving tools a while ago now, given how many different types I’ve got.

The 3 way spiders for cyclists Jason shows, typically with 4, 5 and 6mm ends, are ergonomic and convenient to use, and good for relatively low torque applications.

I’m not sure I’d find the four way tool Vic shows quite as handy; it looks a bit clunky and awkward to hold.

I don’t tend to use allen keys much at all, or fixed T handles, for that matter. My preferred method is hex bits or hex bit sockets held in square drive ratchets or breaker bars or spinner T handles.

When it comes to hex screwdrivers, I think it’s important to have both ball-ended and non-ball-ended, and also to have a handle you can get a firm grip on; Bahco Ergo hexball and straight hex drivers are good in this regard, as are Asta ball drivers. Both also have a hole in the handle you can put a tommy bar through to apply extra torque.

Laser Tools set 7480 is also a great addition to your hex driving armoury; they can deliver relatively high torque.

Bondhus HexPro pivot head hex wrenches are also nice to have but they’re only for low torque applications.

One tool my brother seems to reach for every time he comes round on his bike is one I made a while back, but which I don’t use that much:

 

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

During construction I use cap head screws on my models and turn those with screwdriver type ball ended keys. I use the Bondhus ones. Mostly use the 1.5mm to 3mm sizes but have upto 5mm. The balls seem very durable and I’ve not worn one out yet. After that I use Eklind Cushion Tee handle ones.

[Vic]

On Vic Said:

Thanks for your thoughts Clive, I must admit I’m in two minds on this one. …

 

Combination tools are a mix of good and bad.  They’re bad when the unwanted tools in the combination get in the way, which might be all the time!   I’ve a torx set hinged together in a handle like a penknife .  Fits nicely in a pocket and covers 8 sizes, but in action the unused drivers flop around and get in the way.  The nuisance is so bad I bought a set of separates!

Four Allen keys arranged in a cruciform would be worth having in a workshop where those 4 sizes of socket head are in common use.  Not mine!  Separate keys suit me better because I encounter hex sockets in all sizes, not just 4.  And I’d rather have a T-handle than a spiky metal grip!

Dave

 

 

[VicParticipant @vic]

One thing I noticed many years ago is that some of the “T” handled hex drivers are just L shaped keys with a plastic T moulded onto them. I found this the hard way when the plastic handle snapped, hand hurt a little but luckily not damaged! The best T handled drivers I’ve used so far are the Bondhus ones with a heavy steel bar welded to the top. The extra weight gives a good flywheel effect when tightening or loosening hex screws.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

To me the hex key is more about the quality of the steel, the ones that can be wound up like a spring are no good for my work. UNBRAKO is the name I look for ! I then alter them to suit a job, the ball ended ones are sometimes handy. I have found that brazing them to a handle can upset the steel and under heavy load they will snap. T handled ones just take up too much room. Then there are all the other forms, 6point, 5point, security pin, Etc ! Noel.

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

I have two sets of Xcelite interchagable hex bits. One is imperial hez and the other is bristol spline.

They are at least 45 years old and still going strong. Some of the very small sizes are a little shorter as they have had worn tips ground back. I have the option T handle and a deep mut driver for potentiometer and switch nuts. They are still available https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/screwdriver-sets/0538757 but not cheap at nearly £75. They were expensive when I bought them too but about the only option for bristol spline and 0.05″ hex. They were first bought for use on jukeboxes but were still used when I moved to aviation as Collins use them on knobs and gears in their radios.

[VicParticipant @vic]

Well, this is extremely annoying. After ordering a new set of small drivers I checked my Airgun toolbox and found these.

I wish you’d mentioned the ball end RS components before Clive, it would have prompted me to have a look earlier. Oh well. 😆

As regards the quality of hex drivers I obviously agree. In tests Bondhus outperforms some of its main competitors.

https://bondhus.com/pages/competitor-comparisons

[VicParticipant @vic]

As the RS one’s are quite nice I decided to try and fill a gap with a 5mm. Sadly RS no longer seem to sell this type, they only have 3mm and 4mm left 🥲

[PeteParticipant @pete41194]

I’ve got a set of the Bondhus ball tipped tee handle wrenches. For awkward or harder to access Allan head screws there excellent. But they won’t do everything. I now don’t believe there really meant for final tightening or breaking a screw loose. So I’d be cautious since I sheared the 3/32″ tip off on one of mine trying to remove a very tight screw. That reduced area just behind the ball tip for clearance does create a weak point. It was my incorrect use than any fault of the tool itself.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, this is my favourite ball end set, which are Powerfix Profi.

But I did make this T bar one from a busted 5mm long one, about 30 or so years ago, which made one piece of kit that I used to have to service on regular occasions easier to deal with.

But this one is the only screwdriver type ball end one I have, which was for replacing the outer rollers on Troughed conveyor belts, which is a 1/4″ Unbrako.

Regards Nick.

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

Ball end hex keys are not intended for final tightening or inital loosening of fastners. There are two issues. First is that the reduced diameter between ball and shaft can fracture through overload or fatigue. Second is the the reduced contact area of the ball in the socket can strip the hex in the socket.
They are intended for running fastners wher you can’t get straight on access. Application of significant torque should be done with a standard key.

Robert.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Robert, I do tend to agree with you, but that ball end screwdriver one that I have, must have replaced a few hundred rollers in my time, and some were very tight to undo at times, but it hasn’t had that use in the last 20 odd years, and it was all I had back then.

Regards Nick.

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