Chucks 3 or 4 jaw for general use.

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

John , your photo looks ok, but wouldn't work on either of my 4 jaws, the clamping surface on mine are 6 mm and 9 mm wide, not a narrow point as yours are, I'm not sure of the radii of the curve. These are 200 mm, and 150 mm chucks.

Generally, if you buy a Chinese or Taiwanese lathe here in NZ you will get one each 3 and 4 jaw chucks, unless you are like a mate who bought a lathe unseen in a packing case, two each 3 and 4 jaw, and two of each fixed and travelling steadies.

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 04/03/2018 09:17:22

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Ian S C on 04/03/2018 09:16:06:

Generally, if you buy a Chinese or Taiwanese lathe here in NZ you will get one each 3 and 4 jaw chucks, unless you are like a mate who bought a lathe unseen in a packing case, two each 3 and 4 jaw, and two of each fixed and travelling steadies.

I hope he sent it back

Neil

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 03/03/2018 19:44:21:

Posted by Michael-w on 03/03/2018 12:36:03:

Posted by John Alexander Stewart on 03/03/2018 12:32:52:

Hmmm – my 4-jaw SC holds hex just fine.

John.

What I mean is it wont actually contact all 4 jaws on the faces of the hexagon. Only a 3 or 6 jaw can do that.

Michael W

.

You might find this previous thread interesting, Michael: **LINK**

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?p=3&th=102279

… Try the last few posts on the linked page.

MichaelG.

Well, it doesn't seem it at first, but I guess it's perfectly logical, can't argue with evidence like that.

Michael W

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

There is a picture on the cover of a book by Tubal Cain [No 28] showing a method for setting up work in a 4 jaw chuck. This setup was provided by Mike Crisp of Model Engineer fame,and so surprised Tubal Cain [no mean operator himself ] that he said he went into shock when he saw how simple it was. Like him,I had spent ages trying to center work in the 4 jaw,but not any longer.Now I can get it right within minuets,so I tend to use the 4 jaw more than the 3 s/c.

While on the subject,I have a question;

Suppose I have a rough casting with a hole cast in it and I need to bore it out,how do I go about centering it,since there is no pop mark to use?.

Like the aforementioned setup,I,m sure there is a simple way to do it. Any ideas? Somebody out there knows !!

[Billy BeanParticipant @billybean67480]

Since reading about faffing about with a dti in this thread, I have shelved mine and now:-

Eyeball to start with then bring up tool post and tool, set against one face then turn 180 and equal out between both sides. Then turn 90 degrees and repeat

Accurate enough for what I make.

BB

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

Posted by larry Phelan on 06/03/2018 11:54:10:

Suppose I have a rough casting with a hole cast in it and I need to bore it out,how do I go about centering it,since there is no pop mark to use?.

Turn up a plug of wood with a centre mark. Bang it in the hole and set up to that.

However most holes in castings need to be registered to surfaces and curves on the outside shape. Cast in cores are not necessarily in the right place. So again using the wooden bung set your centre out on that referenced to the outline of the casting.

regards Martin

[larry PhelanParticipant @larryphelan54019]

Thanks Martin, I was thinking something along those lines,just was not sure.

As I said,someone out there has the answer,every time.

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