brierley drill grinder

[garyParticipant @gary44937]

i am about to refurbish a brierley drill grinder which i havent used yet, the drill steadys are missing, but are they really needed.   gary

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

Noel is the person you need to ask.

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

It is a bizarre question, or at least, bizarrely phrased.

Why would Brierley go the the trouble of manufacturing the items and including them with the machine if they were not needed?

Without them, use of the machine is possible but very fiddly. The way to find out is to try to use the machine without the steady and see how you get on. You will not burn your house down by doing so, hence the experiment is low risk.

The need for support depends on the length, diameter and helix angle of the drill being sharpened. A steep helix gives less margin for the chuck jaws to grip on. A large diameter has larger flutes so again less margin for the chuck jaws to grip on. A long drill bit is less easy to insert into the chuck from the front, especially if the bit diameter is smaller than the large diameter of the taper.

The very best you can say is that without any item supplied by the factory as a standard part of the machine’s ‘toolkit’, there will be some reduction in its capabilities and ergonomics. Alternatively, if you want to use it with ease and to its full extent, you need all the parts.

You either live with that and smile or you make a replacement item (not difficult – cut the small end off a Morse taper parallel sleeve, sleeve it externally to the spindle ID and add a handle). See here for an idea:

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/brierley-drill-grinder-zb50.137282/page-5#post-2540521

3D printed items would work well in this application.

[garyParticipant @gary44937]

dc31k  nothing bizarre about a genuine question in my book.  gary

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Hi Gary, I’m here ! I take it you are referring to the tail end steadies ? Which model do you have ? ZB 25 or 32 ? The steady for the parallel shank is a short internal taper, more cone, diameter to suit your machine  and about 1″ deep. The 1 and 2 MT are a short section about 1″ long, one on each of a piece of tube about 8″ long, the 3Mt is just an 1″ long piece of 3MT that you put on the end of the drill being sharpened. I hope that makes sense ? If not get back to me. Noel.

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