Brian’s 1″ Minnie Traction Engine

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Thank you both for the reply’s

 

[PlasmaParticipant @plasma]

Brian,

I’m new to this thread but I think that looks amazing my friend!

The piping to the tender looks fine to me the way you did it.

Things takes as long as they take, I know Django is concerned about having enough time to complete a mini.  But if you have to put in full shifts every day the hobby will soon start to feel like a job.

I’m building a kit model which could be completed from box to unpainted built in 24 hours. But I’m modifying and making new parts so it’s going to take me at least a couple of years of hobby tinkering to finish it off.

You’re doing a fantastic job, can’t wait to see her finished.

Mick.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Thank you Mick

Paper template made for the cladding, need to transfer onto the brass.

 

 

 

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Wondering if you could offer me any help regarding the riveting on the wheels?

I am just starting on the fronts but the problem i am having is this,

When i originally built the wheels, each spoke was drilled 1/16 for the rivet, the second hole was then opened up to suit a 10ba screw.

The problem i am now having is the oversized hole won’t rivet very well, i think the rivet is just swelling in the oversized hole.

Wondering if anyone has any tricks ?

I did think maybe fill the hole with solder and re drill the correct size.

Thank you

Brian

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You might just have to start with a longer rivit so that there is enough material to fill the larger hole and still leave enough to form a head.

This may require the making of an intermedial rivit snap so you can start to form it without the shank bending over, think of the shape like an upturned bucket.

I don’t recall enlarging any holes on the Minnie or the Fowler’s tender, I think that although a screw could not be pushed into  a1/16″ hole it could be screwed in and once done a few times the screw lost a bit off the crests.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Hi Jason

I think it was down to my own inexperience, i will try what you suggested as this would swell the rivet filling the hole without it bending,

Thank you

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Hello Jason,

Could i ask how you clamped the boiler banding on your engine?

Did you drill and bend the ends ?

Thanks

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

looks like I soldered a couple of 1/8″ square blocks to the ends of the banding.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Thanks Jason,

I have made some small angle brackets but i am really not happy with them, will follow your example i think.

Thanks again.

[Brian AbbottParticipant @brianabbott67793]

Hello All,

Anyone any tips on how to make the ratchet wheel on the Minnie Lubricator ?

Thank you.

 

 

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Make a small flycutter/single point tool with an acute end and proceed as if you were gear cutting.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

Can also be done with a standard end mill, just change the shape of the pawl

[Andy StopfordParticipant @andystopford50521]

I think I used a dovetail cutter on the centre line

[Clive Brown 1Participant @clivebrown1]

Here’s my 40t Allchin wheel, 1/2″ dia. Cut by grinding an angle on a 1/4″ square hss toolbit which is held in the lathe toolpost and using the carriage as a shaper. The lathe spindle was indexed using a changewheel. Quick and done in one chuck setting.

[Andy StopfordParticipant @andystopford50521]

Having had a look at it, I think I set the edge of the dovetail cutter a bit below the wheel centre line to give a slightly hooked effect to the teeth.

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