BH600G Saddle lock

[OuBallieParticipant @ouballie]

Lever operated

[OuBallieParticipant @ouballie]

Just finished the Saddle lock.

I followed what Anthony Mount did on his similar lathe with the exception that I welded a handle onto the bolt, thus no longer needing to go for a spanner.

As received, and as I've been using it, the locking method left a lot to be desired in that I had to turn that bolt a number of full revolutions to get it to do what it was designed for, and feeling very 'soft' as it tightened up. Anthony found the same with his, all due to bad implimentation/design/machining of the pad that straddles Saddle and Bed.

I had at first thought of doing a locking mechanism similar to the two I made for the drill vice, but realised that that was not practical as I only needed to get the bolt to got from 'Unlocked' to 'Locked' in a 1/4 turn if possible, and in any case the lever would foul the Top-Slide.

A lever welded onto the bolt head, and handle affixed would suffice.

First thing was to scribe lines, on the locking pad/nut, where that 1mm gap is between the Saddle and Bed and where a 1mm tongue needs to be provided to prevent said pad from rotating when the bolt is tightened up.

Scribing done and onto the Shaper to remove metal. What marvellous machines they are in producing flat surfaces with nary a machine mark in sight.

It took a few trips to and fro to get the pad to provide the 1/4 turn I was after.

Then a case of trying it out a few times to settle thing in, then mark the position for welding the rod on.

Said rod had one end turned and threaded M6 for the plastic handle.

As an aside, when making parts for the duplicate SkyHooks, the Greenwood parting tool was squealing like a piglet, obviously blunted by parting off those large pieces of Allthread. Who knows what material they are made of!

Time to rescue the insert tip as I have no idea where the spare is, as usual

Got one of my Yellow plastic diamond honing sticks out, and a few light rubs on the vertical face had the tip as sharp as new.

It then sailed through that 9mm rod.

Back to the shaper to put an angled flat into the end where it's to be welded onto the bolt head.

Stick welder out, and my usual multiple attempts to do a passable job ensued.

My years of O/A useage has not stood me in good stead for this type of welding as I ALWAYS forget to FEED that flipping rod IN.

I still haven't tried the TIG facility on my 3in1 machine, but I should be fine with it, knowing to keep the TIG nozzle at a fixed distance and FEEDING the rod in with LH.

Eventually I ended up with a passable weld when I remembered to feed in, followed with judicious use of the grinder and job done.

Assembled on/in the lathe and it is what I wanted, a 1/4 turn and no spanner needed.

Album added, with photo of finished item in use.

Geoff – Chuffed to say the least.

[Bob RodgersonParticipant @bobrodgerson97362]

Once I get the CNC mill fully built up, software and accessories installed /Fitted and the machine into final position I should be able to tidy up and move in the workshop without finding a machine handle poking me in the backside or tripping over some of the gear that is scattered about.

I will then be able to turn my attention to replacing the saddle stop on my BH 600. As you described the original is useless the bolt on mine sheared last time I used it. I was thinking of doing something like your idea with the plate but using a lever actuated cam lock mechanism similar to one which I have on the steering damper on my 1929 Humber motorcycle. When I get round to doing it I will take a few pictures.

[OuBallieParticipant @ouballie]

Oh, just noticed that I haven't replaced the silicone 'seal' for the Apron alignment peg.

The one on the other side is covered by one of Ketan's excellent concertina swarf shields.

Geoff – Swept the detritus from the Patio, and now need sunglasses. Blow me but it was dirty!

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