baffle plates

[Ian L2Participant @ianl2]

just re-assembling main spindle and components. There is couple of pressed steel parts labelled as baffles (10-8A they fit up against the bearings well one got little bent when removing the bearings thinking these aren't going to be silly money I can get some new. They are little harder to find without being silly money. I have got it as straight as possible but not sure what they are actually doing If anyone can explain there purpose! if its just to keep dirt out why would one not use off the shelf oil seals instead?

 

Edited By Ian L2 on 26/12/2014 20:28:01

[Ian L2Participant @ianl2]

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

>bump<

Hi Ian,

It might help if you let us know which make and model of lathe it is for.

Neil

[Ian L2Participant @ianl2]

Hi John you are correct its a Halifax version of the Atlas. I have not noticed any cut out in the baffle but will get it stripped in next few days and have closer look. I have not yet used lathe but I have had spindle running for about 5 min's on the old bearings with some 3 in one oil. But need to get some proper oil. As well as new bearings in the same parcel (bit delayed dew to Christmas and the recant snow) there is Atlas handbook/manual so was waiting to see what oil is recommended.

The bearings I managed to get at a pretty good price but interested to know how you got the rollers off the inner race unless you know of source for obtaining new rollers. As I did try and get more info about regrinding races having seen some previous threads you had posted in but drew a blank. Also with the spindle I have there seems to be no way or removing the bearing at the chuck end with out splitting the inner race.

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

I wouldn't use 3 in 1 oil. The manufacturer specified SAE 10 oil for the headstock. I've used 10W-40 motor oil, which has the same low temperature viscosity, in my Atlas for the last 40 years with no problems.

Russell.

[Ian L2Participant @ianl2]

Posted by Bogstandard2 on 01/01/2015 17:16:59:

I can't really help you about the bearings Ian, I gave them to a friend and the next day they were sorted.

If you don't have the cutout, I would suggest you file one in there, it really does make getting to the woodruffe key much easier, in fact, I think I left the key in there until after the spindle was drawn out. Otherwise the key catches on the baffle and is rather difficult to get out in situ as there is a large pulley very close to it and stops it being extracted easily.

You should find that if you get a tube that just fits over the spindle flange, then gently tapping on the rollers and cage, the bearing on mine came off very easily and didn't cause any damage at all to the bearing, but if I do remember right, I made sure the spindle was very smooth by rubbing it down with very fine emery or if you have a long stroke press, that should push the spindle through the bearing very easily.

John

Hi John

I think there is may be a difference from what I am reading with "after the spindle was drawn out" my complete spindle with all parts still attached can be lifted away allowing any work to be done on the bench. The tolerances must be different on my spindle as the bearing that supposed to slide to adjust Pre-load had to be removed using 20 ton hydraulic press and it went with hell of crack and attempts to remove bearing at chuck end just bent the thin plate (not shown on diagram) so thinking its of similar tight fit so I left it until new bearing obtained. The bearing was so tight the threads had been stripped on the spindle (pre-load end) I have since had new threads cut and new nut made also bearing face skimmed so bearing is nice fit now.

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