Adept shaping machine drive gears

[Gordon FowlerParticipant @gordonfowler20773]

The drive gears on my adept no2 shaper are worn especially the small one. I have the choice of making a new one or….possibly…..converting to toothed belt drive. The more I ponder the situation the more questions I have, would the belt take the impact at the start of the cut, is it worth doing. Does any body know the definitive dp of the gears, I've worked out 12dp. Many fresh minds may have the answer.

Gordon

[Gordon FowlerParticipant @gordonfowler20773]

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

I would make the spare cog, then you can do what you like and experiment about

**LINK**

[Gordon FowlerParticipant @gordonfowler20773]

Thank you I should have followed the advise however I came up with this.

It works with a whitworth quick return and produces a very good finish. It requires a bit of paint and some fettling to finish. The only problem is the motor which I was unhappy with and ran the wrong was is now rewired and runs very hot even with no load. It has one capacitor and no centrifugal switch that I can find any advise on this would be much appreciated. Diagram to follow.

Gordon

[Gordon FowlerParticipant @gordonfowler20773]

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

When you rewired it you may have mixed up the windings. This is a capacitor start and run motor, the winding fed by the capacitor may be different from the other. If the common point is inside and not accessible the motor would not be reversible.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

You can use T6 aluminium for a cog which is easy to machine if you want

I've had one on my Drummond backgear for a few years now and it's been great, it takes huge amounts of abuse.

Recently I upgraded to a 1/2HP motor and did a tough job which really jammed the chuck, if I tried to unstick it with the backgear the cog which only had an extremely tight interference fit revolved on the shaft so I was stuck

This is me fitting it back together with a 3/32 keyway

Then I tried once again to unstick the chuck, applying more and more pressure, there was one hell of a bang and I thought something had broken, but no, to my relief it was only the chuck unsticking

As you can see, the cog isn't exactly high precision and DP stands for DoPe in this case.

If you use the shaper to make a new cog use a longer piece of material so you are producing one or two spare cogs at the same time, then part off on the lathe to the proper cog size

Edited By Ady1 on 30/05/2016 10:24:08

[Gordon FowlerParticipant @gordonfowler20773]

Motor overheat sorted. For some reason I had connected the "free" ends of the windings together and once I consulted my notes for the old wiring and John's advice it now runs cool in both directions. Never thought of aluminium for the cogs, I like that and as you say make it longer then part off as required. There are no major alterations to the shaper just a small hole for the belt jockey wheel spindle, so it can all go back together as was for antiques roadshow. I do like the quick return stroke very noticeable.

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