3-jaw chuck problem

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3-jaw chuck problem

Home Forums Beginners questions 3-jaw chuck problem

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  • #168053
    Robin Graham
    Participant
      @robingraham42208

      Hi. I have a new lathe (Axminster CQ6230A-2/910) which was supplied with a 160mm 3-jaw mounted on a D1-4 backplate.When it was set up I checked out the chuck runout using a half inch bar salvaged from a printer, which is the best I have and has always been reliable in the past. Better than two thou near the chuck, which I was impressed with. Turned a few bits, no problems. But then I had to meddle and took the chuck off to clean the scroll, having read that there can be crud in there with budget machines. Not too bad, put it back together and – disaster, now 1mm runout! After checking for obvious stuff like bits trapped between spindle and backplate I ran a sanity check by taking the chuck off the backplate and clocking the backplate register and mating surface. All fine. Cleaned the chuck scroll again, remounted and now only(!) 0,5mm off.

      Any ideas? I think I must be missing something obvious…

      Regards, Rob

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      #7351
      Robin Graham
      Participant
        @robingraham42208
        #168054
        Les Jones 1
        Participant
          @lesjones1

          Hi Rob,
          Are you sure that you have inserted the jaws in the correct sequence ? Some chucks also have the slots for the jaws numbered but I do not see why this should be needed. This is the way I fit the jaws. (1) Turn the chuck key in the direction that would tighten the chuck until you see the end of the scroll enter the jaw slot. (2) Turn the key backwards just a little and insert jaw number 1.(3) Turn the key a small amount in the direction to tighten it and try to pull the jaw out. This is to make sure the scroll has picked up the thread on the jaw. (4) Turn the key again in the closing direction until you see the end of the scroll enter the next jaw position. (The next slot in an anticlockwise direction facing the chuck.) (5) Again turn the key in the opening direction just a little and insert jaw number 2 Go back to step 3 and do the same for jaw 3

          Les.

          #168058
          jason udall
          Participant
            @jasonudall57142

            I agree I suspect the order of jaw installation. .
            If they aren’t labeled. ( then do when you get this right)..
            ..line up the three jaws looking at the teeth on the back. .the face that engages the scroll..
            You can get them in order such that the slots line up..jaws aligned slots diagonal…
            The one with the slot nearest the clamping ( the bit the touches the outside of bar) face is “one “the middle one is “two” the last is “three”.
            Now install them as described above..

            Now if these jaws are reversed for use internal
            . You install jaw three then two then one…

            Edited By jason udall on 28/10/2014 22:22:52

            #168095
            Ian S C
            Participant
              @iansc

              You can't reverse the jaws in a scroll type chuck, you have inside, and outside jaws, and when you change them use the same order for both sets of jaws.

              Ian S C

              #168097
              Neil Wyatt
              Moderator
                @neilwyatt

                Wrong order of installation will give bigger errors than 0.5mm. I would try the jaws with all three starting positions, and experiment with using all three key sockets for tightening. Tedious making 9 tests, but worth it if one set-up gives significantly better results.

                My 4" Zither chuck gives a fraction of a thou runout, but only if:

                1 every jaw is in the correct slot

                2 I tighten using the socket marked '0'

                3 The scroll and jaws are clean.

                Mark the best socket, either centre pop next to it or use a drop of paint you can scrape off if you are worried about affecting your warranty.

                If you still don't get good results check that the serial numbers on the jaws match the chuck's number (usually a three-figure number), but bear in mind it was OK when you took it apart so it should be possible to get it back in order!.

                Neil

                P.S. if you do a full strip down, make sure the socket bevel gears stay matched to their correct holes, or you have 27 tests to do…

                #168100
                martin perman 1
                Participant
                  @martinperman1

                  Robin,

                  My lathe chuck is held in place with three bolts through the backplate, I put a centre pop mark on the backplate and opposite on the chuck so that it always goes back in the same place as I found that one hole out when mounting made a difference.

                  Martin P

                  #168101
                  Dougie Swan
                  Participant
                    @dougieswan43463

                    I bought a Chinese lathe from the same supplier a few years ago

                    I had a new chuck sent out to try to fix a problem like yours, it was worse

                    A new tailstock arrived to try to rectify a problem it had

                    The gearbox worked a bit better after I removed all the sand and swarf from inside it

                    Finally a new lathe arrived to replace the one I had as the problem with the tailstock could not be fixed

                    My big mistake was taking two hours to load the faulty machine into the delivery waggon and setting the new one in the workshop before checking it. It had the same fault with the tailstock as the original !!

                    I got a refund and bought a second hand british machine, this was the advice I got in the first place

                    Dougie

                    #168103
                    Gordon W
                    Participant
                      @gordonw

                      As IanSC I don't understand how you can put a 3 jaw chuck jaws back in the wrong slot. Well it is pretty obvious if you do, or am I missing something ? not for the first time. I marked my chuck with the jaw positions just to make it easier to assemble, Do agree with marking the backplate when the best position is found.

                      #168129
                      Lathejack
                      Participant
                        @lathejack

                        Hello Robin.

                        Another thing worth checking on this type of Chinese lathe is the actual fit of the chuck backplate on the Camlock spindle. There can be the problem of the tapers mating together well before the flat faces of the spindle and backplate do.

                        This can lead to the chucks easily being pulled up unevenly when the cams are tightened, which would give the errors you have. It can take a great deal of force to get the backplate to mate up squarely, with even a small gap visible between the two flat mating faces on one side, and wobble of the chuck as it rotates, if it isn't done right.

                        My Warco 1330 suffers from this problem, plus a couple of other low cost Chinese lathes I have worked on. The higher quality lathes I use at work have Camlock spindles and these have a distinctly different fit. The taper and the flat mating faces on these make contact almost simultaneously, making repeated accuracy easy and with considerably less force needed on the cams when tightening them up with the key. They also release very easily when the cams are slackened, but on my 1330 the backplates remain stuck fast.

                        It seems to be a quirk of some of these low cost Chinese machines with Camlock spindles. I do know of someone who bought the same type of lathe as yours and did some work on all the backplates and face plate to get a better fit.

                        Edited By Lathejack on 29/10/2014 20:52:32

                        #168143
                        Chris Trice
                        Participant
                          @christrice43267

                          Gordon, it is possible to put the jaws back in the right order but in the wrong slots, jaw 1 in slot 2, jaw 2 in slot 3 and jaw 3 in slot 1 for example.

                          #168152
                          Bodgit Fixit and Run
                          Participant
                            @bodgitfixitandrun

                            Surely putting the jaws in different slots shouldn't make any difference to the run out as such because they still engage with the scroll in the same sequence. Error here would be to do with the scroll not running concentrically. I would make sure the chuck is replaced in the same position on the back plate. mark this up with a spot to ensure you do this.

                            Check the jaw slots and jaws for burrs or bruises but this would only impact the lateral position of the jaw in the slot which if it was excessive you would feel.

                            #168158
                            Ian S C
                            Participant
                              @iansc

                              Chris, you are quite correct, but to get consistency the jaws should always go back in the same slots each time.

                              You may also find that the accuracy may change depending on the diameter of the piece in the chuck.

                              Ian S C

                              #168164
                              colin hawes
                              Participant
                                @colinhawes85982

                                Rob, It seems to me that the error is not likely to be caused by inserting the jaws in the wrong sequence as this would give a far greater error , at least 1/3 scroll pitch for a 3 jaw chuck. If the scroll is a close running fit on its spigot then the problem must be at the backplate interface due to poor fit or lack of parallelism on one or more mating faces between the business end of the chuck and the machine register. However if the scroll has a pitch error I would expect this to show up as change in error when different diameters are held although If the jaws are inserted in the correct sequence but in the wrong slots then I would expect this to show the variation you get. Colin

                                #168165
                                John Durrant
                                Participant
                                  @johndurrant47282

                                  On my AMA210 there is a '0' stamped on the spindle flange and on the chuck. Not matching these up does affect the run out, even though the spindle register clocks up true on diameter and face.

                                  #168166
                                  Chris Trice
                                  Participant
                                    @christrice43267

                                    On cheaper chucks, it’s easily possible to get 020″ run out by assembling the jaws in the wrong slots.

                                    #168170
                                    Trevor Wright
                                    Participant
                                      @trevorwright62541

                                      Is the problem the chuck body running out or the jaws?

                                      Clock the main diameter of the chuck, if it runs out then check/clean the mountings. If the body runs true then the error is with the jaws.

                                      Refer to Neils post previously………..

                                      Trevor

                                      #168178
                                      Clive Hartland
                                      Participant
                                        @clivehartland94829

                                        Its logical to think that when being made that a chuck is assembled and mounted and then the jaws are ground internally and maybe externally with the separate jaws in there position in the chuck body. Any deviation from that position when in use is now all out of register so marking the jaws is essential. It is correct in 1 of 3 positions so set up the chuck jaws, marking the chuck jaws and the chuck and slowly set it up with each sequence of positions. Hopefully you will get it in the right position eventually.

                                        Clive

                                        #168182
                                        John Durrant
                                        Participant
                                          @johndurrant47282

                                          Is there a method of grinding hard jaws in a chuck. I know than we used to turn soft jaws by gripping a spider to take up the slack, and to bore through the jaws we did it in two stages, grip a spider to trepan a groove into the face of the jaws, then remove the spider and fit a ring into the groove. That allowed us to bore until the noise stopped.

                                          But you can't groove hard jaws angry

                                          #168186
                                          Rik Shaw
                                          Participant
                                            @rikshaw

                                            Yes, grip a thin disk at the rear of the jaws, grind the jaws, remove the disk and grind the back of the jaws to slightly undercut the unground portion.

                                            Rik

                                            #168200
                                            Robin Graham
                                            Participant
                                              @robingraham42208

                                              Thanks for the numerous replies to this question! The chuck jaws are indeed numbered, but no corresponding marks on the body. Likewise there are serial numbers on the jaws, but none on the body. Foolishly perhaps in view of warranty I popped marks on the body to make sure I got the jaws back in the right slots as I removed them. I'm confident that this isn't the issue – as several people have pointed out if they don't go back in the right slots it's pretty obvious anyway. Just to check I tried all six permutations and it is so!

                                              Anyhow, I've now got the chuck stripped down now and will give it a thorough clean and greasing. I don't hold out much hope though – I tried fitting the outside jaws supplied, and one just doesn't fit in its designated slot. I think the chuck is just badly made – quite a few sharp edges/burrs in there are apparent now I've got it apart.

                                              I think LatheJack may have hit the nail on the head. The chuck backplate certainly binds on the spindle nose – after releasing the cams a good whack or two with a bit of 2×2 is needed separate them. This would explain the apparently random changes in runout when I dismount and remount the chuck. I'll try the four-jaw and faceplate which were supplied with the machine and see if that sheds any further light.

                                              I had kind of thought I might need to buy a new chuck for this machine anyway, but don't want to go to the expense of doing that (nigh 300 for a direct mount Pratt Burnerd,and getting that way for a Zither + backplate) if it's the spindle nose out of flunter.

                                              Dougie, what was wrong with the tailstock on your machine? Sounds a bit of a horror story. I really hope I don't have to send this machine back, took somewhat longer than 2 hours to wrassle the thing into the dungeon!

                                              Rob.

                                              PS, just tried the backplate off the four-jaw, seems to sit nicely and comes off with a sharp tug, so hoping it's the 3-jaw backplate at fault.

                                              #168205
                                              Enough!
                                              Participant
                                                @enough
                                                Posted by Chris Trice on 30/10/2014 11:33:53:
                                                On cheaper chucks, it's easily possible to get 020" run out by assembling the jaws in the wrong slots.

                                                …. and yet, BF&R has a point, at least at first glance. If you imagine the jaws in the scroll in the correct sequence without the chuck body …. and then superimpose the chuck body …. it's hard to see why the orientation of the chuck body should affect the runout of the jaws. It's only providing slots to constrain the motion of the jaws.

                                                And yet, intuitively I believe you Chris and I think perhaps the answer is that the above assumes the slots are truly radial. Any deviation in that respect (which may have been compensated in manufacture by final machining of the jaws in-situ) would mean that each slot should be used with its original jaw.

                                                (Mostly just talking this through for myself smiley )

                                                #168219
                                                Martin Kyte
                                                Participant
                                                  @martinkyte99762

                                                  Someone tell me I'm not being stupid here?

                                                  On 3 Jaw self centreing chucks each jaw is unique to it's slot. There is only one scroll. Move round by 120 degrees and the scroll thread has shifted by 1/3 of it's pitch. The teeth in the back of each jaw have to mirror that and are shifted along the back face of the jaw by 1/3 the scroll pitch as you move from jaw to jaw. Swapping Jaw 1 for Jaw 2 will move the gripping face by 1/3 the scroll pitch. On a 125mm toolmex chuck for example the pitch is 7mm. So 20thou runout by swapping jaws? That would imply a pitch of 60thou or around 0.5mm. I will be visually obvious that the jaws are in the wrong slots and would indicate that the problem in this thread at least lies elsewhere.

                                                  #168220
                                                  Martin Kyte
                                                  Participant
                                                    @martinkyte99762

                                                    PS I do take the point about the jaws all being shifted by one slot.

                                                    regards Martin

                                                    #168228
                                                    Gordon W
                                                    Participant
                                                      @gordonw

                                                      The chuck may be a little tight on the spindle nose, this is normal, it won't take long for a little wear to loosen things off. All the chucks and faceplate need to fit so the spindle and bores are toleranced. Thinking back a bit ,when I first got my new lathe I saw that the chuck was not marked for jaw position, so took out a jaw to find the number, then pop-marked the backplate to suit. This makes it quicker to change jaws. Never thought about alignment I'm afraid. I'm lucky my 3 jaw is pretty good for a real cheapo. NB should never assume a 3 jaw is running true, machine all concentric diameters at same setting.

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