May I suggest that to start with, you don't bother with quick change tool posts, carbide inserts etc. It is important to know how the tools work, so get some HSS blanks and learn to grind your own. It is not difficult, and you only need a few different shapes for most work. You will need a small bench grinder, of course.

The ML10 came as standard with a simple clamp for a single tool – I guess that is what you have. A 4 way toolpost such as those fitted to Chinese mini lathes is not expensive and will fit with slight modification. It's a long time since I did mine, but as far as I remember it needed a bit machined off the bottom to get it to a reasonable height. This is easily done on the lathe in a 4 jaw chuck – no need for a mill.

In practice you never have all 4 possible tools mounted, often only one or two, so it isn't an essential thing and again, to start with, you should perhaps see how you get on with the standard single clamp, then decide what you really need.

As Redsetter says, the most you will need to do is bore out or sleeve the central hole of a toolpost and perhaps skim the base.

If you look here you will see several different options.

If you do want a Quick Change Toolpost the 000 from Arc Euro Trade is nice and compact, a conversion stud kit is available for ML7/S7 and as far as I am aware the ML10 has the same size mounting stud so this should work with it.

The minimum height lost on the 000 toolpoost is just 4mm so it should be fine with the ML10, so with that conversion stud it should work fine with no machining.

Neil

I went down the route of making my own tools from HSS steel, it is a great start. But a little old fashioned like some people are. Would you drive your car using hand signals because that is how it used to be done. No. These days & with modern materials you do not need to go down that route unless you plan to make something special that requires a certain angle of cut or radius.

You are asking the same questions that I asked when I came onto this forum. I was told to leave the lathe alone & just use it. One member suggested to wait 2 years before doing any mods , so I could get used to machining etc. Did I listen.???. The main things are is the bed of the lathe true. Is the cross slide accurate with none or little play. Is the headstock free of any lateral play. Make sure you keep it well lubricated with oil & not grease. Read the blurb on the myford website for your model. You can fit the quick change tool post easily as I did.

Look for the thread that I started. (Myford only). It was not hard to convert. My S7 came with a toolpost of the basic kind, which meant that every time I wanted to fit a cutter. I had to pack it with shims, bits of hacksaw blades & anything else I could find. I now have the new one fitted & it is superb. I have an array of tool holders on a magnetic strip at the side of the lathe. Right hand cut, left hand cut, Straight cut. 1 spare. Some more on order to do boring & I need another for parting. I am fortunate that I can purchase the things I need due to investing in my pension fund some years ago.

I understand that some members have to manage on a basic pension & for that I do feel sorry for them. But if you can afford to spend a few pounds on the lathe to bring it up to modern specs, then do. The myford site do a quick change tool post that fits your lathe. I went down a different route.

I bought a toolpost from the USA. The one I wanted was a Chinese version but there were none available from China. Tells you something. This was before the out break of the current disease. Also a warning. Do not order anything from China at the moment as you will not get it.

If you have some metal of any kind, then try it in the chuck. Turn it gently to make sure it is central & not wobbling about. Fit a cutter & have a go at machining some thing. Read some books on machining, or ask anything on here. Length of cut without support. etc etc. This forum is a mind of information, so ask away. I now have some cutters with the inserts & they are very good, do not need re sharpening every 2 minutes. Also they sell the carbide brazed cutters that are very good too.

I am sorry if my comments insult any members but I am trying to be as honest & direct to a new member that just wants to do some machining. Without an apprentiship.

Edited By Redsetter on 07/02/2020 08:48:01

I could find it but I think it might be a bit too big. The one I fitted is not the smallest they sell. It is No 2 . Anyway here is the ebay item No . Just type or copy & paste that No in search box on ebay.

153540921340

It's fine to quench HSS in water, but dip often – don't get it red hot. I've pinched one of the grandkids' beach buckets. I use HSS for everything except when cubic inches metal removal per minute matter, for which I've a couple of TC insert tools.

Don't take this the wrong way, but model engineering is very much about making things fit when they don't!

Modifying a toolpost isn't such a bad idea for a first project. If you already have some kind of toolholder on your lathe you can do it.

I doubt you will find anything on Amazon specifically designed for the ML10. Some listings do include detailed dimensions, but if not you will just have to order the most likely one, measure it up, and send it back if you don't think it will work.

Cutting up fee[er gauges for shims is a total waste. You don't need height adjustment in the few thou range. Shims cut from tin cans and the like are plenty thin enough. It does not matter if the tool is mounted slightly below centre height. Just don't go above as then the tool will rub on the job.

Quality HSS can be red hot without losing its temper.

Quenching can cause cracks.

If it's getting very hot very quickly and the wheel is rapidly shrinking you may be being too aggressive with the grinding.

Neil