Hello John, cannot exactly help you with that one but I was in a similar position of wanting nameplates for model traction engines.

I am fortunate in having a sign company locally who took my artwork and lasercut individual letters in Perspex so that I could glue them onto a Perspex background to make a full-sized pattern.

My aim is to use this as a template to follow on my Alexandra engraving machine to produce smaller replicas in brass to suit my models.

This technique could also be used to produce a pattern that could be cast in brass.

I'd already had a professional sign company attempt an etched nameplate but the problem there is the that etchant removes metal sideways, under the artwork, as well as etching the depth, which for a 5" loco would need to be quite deep to look convincing.

Brian

There is also a product that was used in the printing industry called “Nyloprint” that used (I think an alcohol solution) to do the etching. (https://www.teamflexo.com/pdf/nyloflex/nyloprint%20work%20manual.pdf.)

From memory using a point source light and the transparent nature of the plastic a shoulder is automatically developed, these could possibly used as patterns for casting.

This could be food for thought and investigation!

How to split messages?

FYI:

I made some for a friend by engraving from artwork. Did write this up for Diane, but article was probably too long and the software was free, so has not appeared in print.

In essence, I drew it up, saved it as a jpeg file, and sent it into LinuxCNC, which understands image formats and will engrave from that.

All I needed to get was some engraving cutters, From my album, the first results:

The etched brass in my previous post is 28mm diameter.

I engraved these for a member here…

Will PM you.

I've used photoresist from Ebay to etch a brass clock dial on 1.5 mm brass sheet. I used an A3 laminator purchased cheaply from Lidl and ran the thing through the laminator twice to make sure of the adhesion. It was exposed using the sun for about 3 seconds to get even exposure as I don't have a light box.

There is a good guide to doing the job here.

A couple of photos showing the developed resist and the finished product with the engraving filled with celulose paint:

Russell

Hi John

The film I used was Mungolux

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Photopolymer-Film-Photo-Resist-Dry-Film-Photoresist-for-etching-pcb-gravure/262473322396?hash=item3d1ca10f9c:m:mLOaDla06VixMKAwTwhq5QQ&frcectupt=true

I cleaned the brass first with hot water and detergent to remove any grease then with fine wet and dry paper and water to remove any oxide (not sure if that is really necessary). I sprayed the brass with a fine mist of water before pressing the film in place, carefully removing all the water by rubbing the film with a soft cloth. I have had success on smaller parts using a domestic iron ironing it through brown parcel paper, but a laminator is more reliable. I guess small parts could be stuck to a sheet of paper with double sided tape to make them easier to feed.

Etched in a warm ferric chloride solution with the dial upside down on spacers so that any residue could fall out of the etched area. Occasional agitation and inspection was done to make sure all was going well.

Hope that helps.

Russell