I use a Digital Camera (Both SLR and Happy-Snappy) …. I just either set the Scene Mode or the White-Balance to the setting that matches the lighting …. I don't usually have any problems then.

In fact in most cases the Auto-White Balance on the DSLR gives perfect results …. (I just set the White balance to be sure)

Dave

I use an old digital for photos and upgraded it years ago so it could take 500 photos on an outing

Cameras don't always get the light right since they don't have a 10 terrahertz real time computer (known as the brain) to compensate

I would then take 5 to 10 photos of each shot from lower ground level to upper ground level and sort things out when I got home, discarding 90%

The limited aperture of a camera lens means a lot of light variation in situations where we don't even notice a difference

Hi again Ray

Here are a couple of images I took at Bristol a few years ago showing the effect you describe and then the same image processed in Adobe Lightroom. I suspect that the lighting at the exhibition is mixed as neither the preset for tungsten nor that for flourescent light were acceptable and I had to create a custom setting. Once done though I was able to apply it to all the images.

Bazyle I will create an album with some pics .( Bristol Exhibition) I really recomend this event – smaller than some maybe but lots to see and a nice relaxed atmosphere. ( It's also a reasonable drive from Devon!).

IMAGE AS SHOT

IMAGE CORRECTED IN LIGHTROOM

Regards

Norman

Edited By NJH on 13/06/2012 13:23:07

Edited By NJH on 13/06/2012 13:23:29

OK Bazyle

I have now put a selection of images in my album "Bristol Show". Not terribly good quality I'm afraid, unlike the models which are stunning! Last years show had increased in size and scope quite a bit but there is time to chat with exhibitors, room to move around, a real family feel and plenty of parking. There are a range of trade folk there too – so take your favourite plastic!

N

Edited By NJH on 13/06/2012 14:14:18

Ray,

Nothing wrong with the Olympus Master software supplied with my E510. Can still get good shots inside.

Welcome to the Olympus E510 club Kwil, nice to see another member whose got taste

Len. P.

My main camera is an Olympus E410 digital SLR

Pages 49-51 in the E410 manual (the on-line version from the Olympus website) describe the whie balance function & how to set a custom white balance.

I use a Pentax K20D, which is set in a similar manner.

If you want a better editing software and don't want to spend a fortune download GIMP. Iy's free and will do everything that expensive packages will. Takes a while to learn though.

Russell.

I can't remember if it's sodium or mercury vapour lighting in the BEC halls. Many DSLR's have an auto white balance setting which compensates for most lighting situations. If you set the camera for a particular light source e.g. tungsten or fluorescent then use flash this can add a colour cast into the image i.e. if using flash set the white balance to auto or flash.

Hi Ray,

I'm coming in rather late here, and certainly go along with the above comments about colour balance etc.

What I thought would be of use to you, goes something like this :-

Many a picture is spoiled in low light conditions due to camera shake, where the image is smeared, and there being a limited depth of field, at wide aperture. Having a uniform amount of light usually produces a nicer result, but …

There are two solutions which come to mind. The first is the use of flash, and the second (in a tight environment such as an exhibition hall), is to use a monopod, or better still a tripod. The latter is rather cumbersome hence the idea of using a monopod. If neither of these are possible, then propping the camera on something more rigid can work well.

With flash however, camera shake is (usually) not a problem, unless the camera has software for balancing the flash output with available light. Then you get two images. A sharper one from the flash, and a secondary image from the available light. Without a steady hand or something to support the camera on, these two images can appear separate.

Although a flash image can be very much sharper, the fall off in light intensity varies with the square of the distance, so that detail closest to the camera is illuminated more brightly than detail further away.

I have found the best results with flash is to have the flash unit off the camera, held out at arms length and somewhat above the subject. A bit tricky at first, but worth the effort.

There are other factors, but I think that will be enough.

Good luck,

Sam

I just leave my camera set to auto white balance and the whites seem to come out all white.

I'm using a DAZ 27z – it did say "Whiter than white" on the box…