What photo. Phillip, go to the top of the page and click on the camera beside Albums, and start your self an album. Reduce the pictures to about 640 x 480.

Ian S C

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Ouch !!

Publish the spec for the bearing, and we can have an informal competition to find the cheapest source.

MichaelG.

Well to get the bearing off, carefully use an angle grinder to grind one side of the bearing down to the quill. As the wall gets thinner you can see how close you are getting to the quill by the temper mark developing on the thin section. You can stop just short of the inner diameter and give it a good whack which should crack the remainder. If it's still stuck run a bead of weld parallel with the quill opposite the flat you have ground, the contraction as the weld cools will pull the two sides away from the quill. I am sure you can get a bearing that will do the job for less than £90! Having gone this far and while the bearing is off you may as well get the chuck out too!

Paul.

+1 for Paul's bearing removal method, I've even got an internal bearing out using a dremel that way.

Neil

Having heated the quill and knocked it about I doubt there is a real need to fit a high precision bearing! For general drilling any old cooking spec bearing of the right sizes would do the job.

Paul.

Assuming the 20.64 dimension is the width of the bearing you can get double bearings with the same internal and external dimensions but 18mm wide. They cost under £25 pounds (4205 ATN9 Double Row SKF Ball Bearing&nbsp and you could probably make up a spacer to make up the gap. Not an ideal solution, but worth a try if the other option is to scrap. There may be other suitable bearings just found this one after a quick look.

I’m not exactly sure what you have tried. The usual tapered wedge, though from one side to the other has always worked for me with tanged morse taper fittings. If your drift is through the spindle, I am not so surprised it did not work. Tell us a bit more in detail. Heat may help, but if the inserted taper expands at the same rate as the socket, the difference in expansion will be zilch.

The bearing is scrap. ID and OD is needed, possibly as well as length, to find the equivalent. Most bearings have been metric for decades, even if quoted as imperial.

I used to buy old drilling machines do a refurb and paint and sell them,I never found one with a double row race bearing,all were single row,the drill was no doubt intended for industrial use ie 8 hrs a day all week,for hobby use a single row ball race would be adequate just machine up some spacers to accomodate a smaller bearing,lot cheaper. To remove the chuck it needs a brickies club hammer ,the spindle resting on something big and heavy, like an anvil, with a strip of brass between anvil and spindle to prevent bruising then use a home made extractor wedge with about half the taper of a normal morse taper wedge,easiest way would be to modify an existing wedge with an angle grinder, also make sure the wedge is resting on top of the chuck tapered arbour and not on some small shoulder or burr in the extraction hole of the spindle,then give a hard single blow rather than a series of lighter blows, you get similar problems with extracting taper gib head keys from flywheels,take time in getting the key drift set up correct then give the drift one almighty blow, lighter taps or blows just have rivitting effect.

First thing I would do with that chuck, bearing in mind it is on a MT, is to set it up appropriately to alleviate damage to the quill, so the chuck is facing upwards, jaws fully retracted, and using a brass packing piece in between, take the aforementioned 4lb lump hammer, and give it one full force crack with the hammer to drive the chuck home in the quill.

I kid you not, that may apply enough force to just crack the taper free, so you can use a MT extractor.

I would also try a taper extractor, and as suggested above, machine it so it has a shallower taper.

If that doesn't work, what I would try then is to make two identical wedges, and machine them thin enough so you can apply one from either side, grease them well, and if you have a big enough vice, don't hit the wedges, but squeeze them in the vice, so you apply pressure rather than force, and it is evenly from either side.

I have got some MT shanks apart that have also been together for years, you just have to work out non destructive ways to do it, whilst applying the most effective force.