Consider getting a big bottle of propane and a torch/nozzle kit.

Even with a cheap and cheerful torch set it's far ahead of a blowtorch (MAPP or otherwise) and not expensive to run (once you have got a bottle).

I am also with Neil on the Propane/Butane method.

Have a look at Rob in Australia. He has quite a few videos on brazing etc with a Bulfinch torch also many no nonsense ways to do things in the home workshop :-

**LINK**

regards

Just found this for Rothenberger MAPP gas:

**LINK**

On page 2 it says it’s 50-100% Butane/25-50% Propylene.

To jimmy b … I have been using MAPP gas torches for many years … I have made many, many small boilers and gas tanks for boats … now I have started to make some for small railway engines … the ROTHENBERGER torches are easily available at local builders merchants, B and Q and Screwfix … I think that for the sizes I make they are fantastic … the flame will happily melt small pieces of brass and copper … so be careful.

I would never pretend that they would silver solder a boiler for a 5inch loco …there is plenty of temperature available but not enough quantity of general heat, if that makes sense … but for my size of work they are great … the larger of my 2 blowlamps is called a SUPER FIRE 2.

As regards whether it is MAPP gas or MAP gas, yes it has changed over the years … the word propylene is there on the label … the old bottles were labelled Methyl Acetylene propadeine or something similar … the new ones are not quite as hot as the old ones … I did once see a technical readout which quoted 1100 degrees instead of 1200 degrees centigrade … still fantastic for small jobs … very quick and easy to use … just be careful where you point it … the blast of heat can extend by quite a few feet.

martin

“BUY BOTH’

Or just collect the ’hot air’ from the beans, and use that as a fuel.

I use a Nortel Minor and a 5l oxycon with propane. Works a treat but not too portable.