I installed the glass scales on the X and Y axis.

I did the Y axis 1st. I put a spring clamp on the read head to the ali frame to keep it true to the spacer shims. Attached the supplied Ali bracket to the underneath side of the read head. With the slide covers removed, moved the Y all the way to the column. Used a set of button spacers to get the approx distance from the bottom of the bracket to the casting , with about a 1.5mm gap or so. The checked the scale for parallel. So the Y axis can move with the read head as well due to the clearance gap. Using 1 indicator on the top surface and another on the outside of the scale makes for short work to align. After establishing the correct space size, then made some from Ali bar, but with 1 drilled 5mm as a pivot reference end, front mount, and then drilled the back one with a 5.5 clearance hole in-case of any discrepancies on the hole centres. This becomes the dummy run in mounting the read head support as well. Then drill and tap into the casting base 2 X M5 . In my case I turned a pin that was close in size to the bracket slot, to get a centre punch mark centred on the slots.Rechecked the vertical alignment, and leave the indicator over the back of the scale. ( Reference for reassembly, place the indicator 10mm or so forwards of the cap screw position ) . Now ready for assembly, it is important to remove the securing screws from the supplied spacer shims, but leave the spacer in place, and I used a spring clamp to keep it all together still. Remember to degrease and clean the side of the casting and the back of the mount bracket.I loosened off the back end screw till it was almost undone, removed front screw and spacer.(needed to clean casting and back of mount) .Put a very small amount of wax on the M5 capscrews for the mounting bracket. Get some epoxy putty , so cut off about 20mm length,and knead till it is all uniform and starts to get quite pliable like plasticine. Made 2 oval loops with the putty and put then around the M5 screw tapped holes where the mount is to go. Place the front spacer into place and just start the M5 screw. Now the juggle. Start the 2 M5 screws with the washers on, then carefully press against the bracket towards the fitted position. Do up the slack of the 2 mount bracket screws, also do up the slack of the front and rear fixing screws of the scale. The read head should be centred to the scale laterally all the time. This is VERY IMPORTANT. The fixed ends should be done up nearly tight and just the slack taken on the read head. Remove the spring clamp and the test the alignment. The reference indicator should be on zero or very close to it, and in my case was less than 0.04mm of total error front to back and side to side. I use one hand to turn the Y axis handle, and the other to help support the read head bracket assembly. The putty goes off quite quickly and is reasonably firmish. At any rate, did not want any unwanted movement. There is drag due to the spacers still being in place. I did not want to remove them early and then find I could not get them back in easily. It was correct on the 1st pass so we had beginners luck. I tightened the scale holding screws tight, rechecked for alignment. Let is sit for 1 hour to cure. Tightened the bracket screws a little more. Removed the spacer shims and all is good. The Y axis scale covers will get connected onto the outer M5 screw positions with a piece of angle Ali angle.The 2 inner M5 screws will not be disturbed.

I found in the shed today a 3phase 220V 1.5 kw motor. So latter I will change the single out for the 3ph and run a VFD to get other speed ranges and to get more RPM on the top end. The other option is to get the 2KW 2900 rpm 220 V 3ph motor and then run it at 100% to a reduced rpm limit, instead of 100% and then going to 85hz on the 1450 rpm motor. On my machine the LH side where I fitted the Y axis DRO is the non gib side. On the front however, it is on the gib side. I don't yet have a good picture showing the access to the stops or the gib locks. On the same side as the handle to lift the column, I have coming a digital scale like what I have put on the quill. So when lifting etc, I will have a reference. I am not sure apart from convenience the advantages of the DRO of the quill on the box.

Out of curiosity, what have people done to get the column square to the run of the table in the for and aft plane? Mine is out by about 0.03 mm to 0.04 mm over the 129 mm quill range.

What oil do people find is best for the gear box head on these Mill? What will help to keep it quiet?

Thanks, Neil