What did you do today (2015)

[Bruce EdneyParticipant @bruceedney59949]

Productive day today

Purchased a partially completed Stuart D10 a couple of weeks ago.

Stripped it down and bagged it all up to see what I needed to do to it.

Left cylinder had been bored but that was it and the right cylinder had been bored and the steam passages drilled. One of these passages had been done quite off centre and quite poorly so it was out with the JB Weld.

The left cylinder has now had the steam passages milled and drilled

I'm not too happy with the holes for mounting to the stand of the right cylinder either. One has broken through. Any suggestions? Or is it time to buy a new casing?

Bruce

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Apart from the look, it will work OK with 3 studs if its just for show.

J

[Bruce EdneyParticipant @bruceedney59949]

Thanks Jason

I want it to be a working engine and look as nice as possible.

Bruce

[capnahabParticipant @capnahab]

Pardon my ignorance Bruce but what's the JB weld for ?.

[Bruce EdneyParticipant @bruceedney59949]

I didn't like where the hole was drilled nor where it came out in the steam port so I decided to plug it and redrill

Bruce

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Bruce, tap the offending hole, make a threaded cast iron plug, a good firm fit and Loktite it in, redrill in the correct place.

Ian S C

[mark costello 1Participant @markcostello1]

JB Weld is a common,generic name for 2 part epoxy. Used for everything under the sun that needs fixing. The only way to get it to fail is if it really needs to be stuck permantly. If some is slopped about it never will come off.

[mick70Participant @mick70]

fitted motor to southbend 9" only prob runs wrong way.

not best fitting but planning on complete new stand for it and wanted to get it up and running so i can see what else i need to build into stand then will redesign mounting as running step pulleys on it and will need 3rd set to get speeds down for screwcutting.

guy who had it before me had smashed small sect of seperate pulley and sold shaft that held the big pulley and motor for it.

made mistake of building stand for my other lathe before it arrived and regretted it for 2 yrs till i built purpose made one for it.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by mark costello 1 on 13/06/2015 14:16:34:

JB Weld is a common,generic name for 2 part epoxy.

.

… or, more strictly; the trade name for one particular range of products

**LINK**

MichaelG.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

But make sure you buy the right one , only the red/black tube original formula is slow drying and takes the higher temps so is suitable for use with steam. Thats the one that people are refering to when they say JBWeld in our circles

Don't go thinking its just an epoxy like araldite which you can't machine and will melt so not really generic 2 part epoxy

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Naughtyboy – most motors can be reversed, just a bit more difficult if the motor has been installed in the under cabinet. Won't you want to run the motor in reverse sometimes anyway ? I use reverse quite a lot when screw cutting metric threads with the imperial leadscrew. Use it to reverse out after screw cutting with no cut on.
BobH

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

Posted by JasonB on 13/06/2015 15:05:31:

But make sure you buy the right one , only the red/black tube original formula is slow drying and takes the higher temps so is suitable for use with steam. Thats the one that people are refering to when they say JBWeld in our circles

Don't go thinking its just an epoxy like araldite which you can't machine and will melt so not really generic 2 part epoxy

Epoxy resins can take on a wide variety of properties depending on the filler used and most of the mixtures can be machined. They can be filled with talc, wood dust, chopped glass or carbon fibres, and even microscopic hollow glass spheres but I think the one you are referring to is filled with a fine metal dust.

Never had any problems with Araldite but I always use the slow curing one.

Russell

[mick70Participant @mick70]

Posted by Speedy Builder5 on 13/06/2015 15:08:03:

Naughtyboy – most motors can be reversed, just a bit more difficult if the motor has been installed in the under cabinet. Won't you want to run the motor in reverse sometimes anyway ? I use reverse quite a lot when screw cutting metric threads with the imperial leadscrew. Use it to reverse out after screw cutting with no cut on.
BobH

prob is need it turning other way to be able to cut.

guy from club that does electrics is away at moment, he did say when i get motor fitted he will come up and wire it up to the dewhurst type switch i have for it.

but you know what it's like when you get new toy.

it runs above the and to rear of head unit.

[frank brownParticipant @frankbrown22225]

Naughtyboy, if you open up the motor connection box and let us know what you find, we might be able to help reverse the motor's direction.

frank

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Another fun day knurling and making more brass knobs. Heard a steam train and saw the smoke but the local tracks are in a wide cutting so no sign of the train itself from my house. Probably one of the Avon Valley Railway events.

Ed.

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

I installed a new reversible motor on my 9" Southbend. Problem being that I have a screwed on chuck and it unwinds under heavy loads.

Paul.

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

Just walked out of a book shop clutching a brand new hardback copy of LBSC'S Shop Shed & Road. I have just checked Amazon who currently list only one new copy at an eye watering £196.51 so the £20 I paid would not seem over priced.

Rik (feeling generous for once!)

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Today I finally made the correct slide bars for my 4" Durham and fitted them, replacing the square bar I had used to set everything up.

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Posted by Paul Lousick on 14/06/2015 00:03:09:

I installed a new reversible motor on my 9" Southbend. Problem being that I have a screwed on chuck and it unwinds under heavy loads.

Paul.

Paul

There are three ways to stop the chuck unscrewing.

I, Never run in reverse

2. Only go very gently when running in reverse, especially parting off.

3. Fit some sort of locking device.

A VFD with ramped acceleration helps in situation 2.

As regards locking you could make a drawbar device.

Ian P

[Mark P.Participant @markp]

Installed my new Warco VMC, happy bunny

Mark P.

[LathejackParticipant @lathejack]

Mark P.

Hope you enjoy your new VMC, they are quite quite good machines for the home workshop. I have owned my Taiwanese made version for around 17 years and have only ever considered getting rid of it for one of the bigger versions.

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Posted by Gordon W on 08/06/2015 09:05:28:

Just for interest all you gun people- I was told that that shotguns had the barrels and ribs soft soldered together, is that true and is it still so ?

That indeed used to be the case but very rarely nowadays. Depending which gun, soft soldered barrels sometimes cannot be hot blued. Mostly Silver Soldered is the case and the silver blues well. I have a .410 that was recently blacked and the soft solder is quite visible down both barrels. Modern factory produced production line guns are welded.

The trick with double guns – and this covers both shotguns and double rifles is "regulating" the barrels so no matter which barrel you discharge, the shot or bullet arrives at the same place. With a bit of luck, JohnF will be along in a minute and may better explain as this is something he does regularly and can describe far more eloquently than I can..

Finally, many, many early guns were Rust Blued, a technique which does not require Hot Blueing Tanks and there is no danger of seperation due to heat.

graham.

Sorry boys'n'girls not been paying attention otherwise occupied with fixing drains and mowing grass before the rain !

Well most gun barrels on British made guns are still soldered with tin and indeed so are many imported ones but Graham is correct in that most continental made shotguns are hard soldered, this is done in temperature controlled ovens so not to distort the assembly, it's also worth noting that largely the barrel assembly is on the mono block system rather than the way barrels are made in the UK, not universal there are always exceptions .

I don't know, but would stand corrected, of any maker who welds barrel assemblies. Recently in the UK there has been a development in the re-sleeving process to repair worn or damaged barrels where the joint is welded so it does not show but it does not depend on the weld for the strength of the joint it is for cosmetics only.

There are advantages and disadvantages with both systems but I won't go into that right now.

Blueing or blacking there are really two methods one is the rust blueing used extensively in Britain the highest temperature is 100*c I.e. Boiling water, the other is caustic bluing where the temperature is much higher. This is not suitable for soft soldered barrels not because of the temperature but because the salts used at the high temperature attack the tin and desolve it. Caustic blueing is faster and suits high volume production but is arguably not as durable as rust bluing. Providing the joint is tight and the excess solder removed on tinned barrels the joint should not show or be barely perceptible .

Believe me there is a great deal more to both of these processes than covered here but hope this helps a little.

Cheers John

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Spent the past few days panelbeating, rust-grinding, rust-converting and pop-riveting patches on an old toolbox I bought at a garage sale for $25 (full of tools). Between primer, paint, pop rivets, sanding discs, rust converter liquid and so on, I might, if I am lucky, have saved $100 over buying a new 7-drawer toolbox. Just waiting for the rain to stop and humidity to drop from 85 per cent before paint can be applied.

I should have just bought the new box.

But at least these old 'uns are more good and solid than the new stuff. It should see me out.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

> these old 'uns are more good and solid than the new stuf

Which is why it was rusty and full of holes

N.

[Oompa LumpaParticipant @oompalumpa34302]

Posted by JohnF on 15/06/2015 01:13:48:

Posted by Gordon W on 08/06/2015 09:05:28:

Just for interest all you gun people- I was told that that shotguns had the barrels and ribs soft soldered together, is that true and is it still so ?

I don't know, but would stand corrected, of any maker who welds barrel assemblies. Recently in the UK there has been a development in the re-sleeving process to repair worn or damaged barrels where the joint is welded so it does not show but it does not depend on the weld for the strength of the joint it is for cosmetics only.

There are advantages and disadvantages with both systems but I won't go into that right now.

Blueing or blacking there are really two methods one is the rust blueing used extensively in Britain the highest temperature is 100*c I.e. Boiling water, the other is caustic bluing where the temperature is much higher. This is not suitable for soft soldered barrels not because of the temperature but because the salts used at the high temperature attack the tin and desolve it. Caustic blueing is faster and suits high volume production but is arguably not as durable as rust bluing. Providing the joint is tight and the excess solder removed on tinned barrels the joint should not show or be barely perceptible .

Believe me there is a great deal more to both of these processes than covered here but hope this helps a little.

Cheers John

Ahh, The article I read implied that the whole assembly was welded, I will re-read that and send you a copy John. It was of interest to me because that Lewis I have has the cosmetic issue of the sleeving being quite noticeable. I will take some pictures so people can see what it is about.

graham.

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