Printed “Template”

[Steve CrowParticipant @stevecrow46066]

I know a few clockmakers use this forum and I'm sure other members use this technique.

On various blogs and online videos I've seen people printing off plans and sticking them to the material to use as a template for drilling and filing etc.

My question is, is bog standard print/photocopy paper ok? Also, are there any common household glues suitable?

I'm making a jig out of 1/16 brass plate about 1 inch x 3 inch so I don't want to buy a can of spray adhesive or similar as this is a one off job.

Cheers

Steve

[Steve CrowParticipant @stevecrow46066]

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Thin double-sided sticky tape is useful.

… the thick stuff, as used by carpet fitters, clogs-up sawblades !

MichaelG.

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Pritt stick would probably be perfectly fine, as well as standard paper as long as you don't leave it round for too long to shrink or grow. Check the scaling on your printer, it used to be the case that PCBs when printed were slightly wrong on an ordinary printer.

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

Draw a box 100×100 or 4"x4" around the plan if is in CAD then when it is printed off you can easily check if the scaling is correct.

Martin

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

Martin Why does it have to be in CAD ? Surely it would work on the back of an envelope

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Steve Crow on 18/02/2017 13:22:48:

…

My question is, is bog standard print/photocopy paper ok? Also, are there any common household glues suitable?

…

Cheers

Steve

Hi Steve,

I do this quite often using ordinary photocopy paper and supermarket brand 'Pritt Stick' solid glue. It has the important advantage of coming off easily!

The method isn't completely foolproof – I've been caught out in three ways:

• The print wasn't 'actual size' until margins were turned off in software. I wish I'd checked the on paper dimensions were correct before drilling any holes!
• Check the printer is accurate in both up-down and right-left dimensioning by test printing a largish circle and confirming it is round with a compass. One of my printers fails this test by 5mm over 100mm! Three other types have all been spot on.
• Beware of stretching the paper when positioning it on the job.

Dave

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

Roy, if you want to check scaling in both x an y directions when printing off a plan it is easier if you can draw an accurate sized box to be printed off with the plan. The OP was about printing off, not about drawing on a piece of paper. The bigger the box the easier it is to check the scaling.

I have printed large layouts using an A0 plotter. The axis along the bed is usually correctly to scale but the direction the paper is fed is variable. Older printers using paper on rolls suffered from higher tension from a new roll with lots of weight. As the roll was used up the tension changed and the scaling changed. More modern plotters feed the paper through the machine and cut it off then reverse back to the start of the paper then print with minimal tension on the paper. Despite this the scaling along the length of the paper is rarely correct.

Martin

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

Martin The OP made no mention of CAD

Roy

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

Roy, that's why I said if.

Martin

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 18/02/2017 15:57:33:

• Beware of stretching the paper when positioning it on the job.

.

… less of a risk with double-sided tape

'though I accept that it is 'gooier'

MichaelG.

[Bob StevensonParticipant @bobstevenson13909]

Dave (silly old duffer) is absolutely right about ALWAYS checking accuracy in BOTH directions whenever using a photocopy or computer scan as there is frequently an error in one direction. Personally, I never stick the drawing onto the brass but have had problems with drawing clock faces and then reducing to right size….a clock face which is very slightly 'not round' will seriously mess up your day!

…………My local copy shop has very skilled owners who spare no trouble to make sure that my photocopies are exact by use of a steel rule on the screen of the copier. They are able to 'push' the screen image in one or other direction until my known dimension is exact on the screen. We then both check the finished copies.

[Gary WoodingParticipant @garywooding25363]

I use this technique a lot for hand-made jewellery, and use TurboCad for the drawing, print on standard A4 copier paper and use Pritt Power as the adhesive. I totally concur with the advice about checking dimensions by including a known sized rectangle in the drawing. If you use a piercing saw to cut intricate shapes then make sure the adhesive is totally dry before sawing.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Gary,

Thanks for the mention of Pritt Power Stick … I've not tried it, but certainly will.

… Gets excellent reviews on Amazon, too **LINK**

MichaelG.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 19/02/2017 08:12:27:

… Gets excellent reviews on Amazon, too **LINK**

.

… mostly excellent, that is

The negative reviews are very negative !!

Is this another instance of 'solvent free' problems ?

MichaelG.

[Russell EberhardtParticipant @russelleberhardt48058]

I've used this method for years. Initially used spray mount adhesive (because I had some). It is ok on largish surfaces but I had problems with it lifting on narrow parts such as clock wheel crossings so for fine detail work I now use super-glue and soak in water to remove the paper.

I draw using Draftsight and print using an HP Deskjet and the dimensions are spot on without any messing about.

Russell.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

I don't disagree at all with those who check dimensions by printing rectangles. However, there was some method in the madness when I suggested checking the printer with a circle. It's because circle drawing causes ink to be placed throughout a wider range of x and y coordinates than a simple rectangle does; the printer mechanism is tested that bit more thoroughly. Of course it's overkill!

I always use cheapo paper for templates, and it does tend to stretch. For that reason I switch to more conventional marking out and positioning with a DRO when accuracy matters. But it's struck me a few times that a quality photo paper might extend the scope of template working. In combination with Michael's thin double sided sticky tape suggestion, it could be an even more useful technique.

In my innocence, I use templates as a visual guide for non-critical edges and holes. Some strange mental quirk causes me to cut mirror images, and using a template stops that mistake dead. But how accurate can work done to a paper template be? Could the method be used to cut clock gears for example?

Dave

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

I have been told that you can use a laser printer onto glossy paper and if you iron the two together the image is transferred to the part. You just need to print the image in reverse if it needs to be. It works on copper printed circuit boards both the track and component sides with different images.

David

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Steve

The answer is to join your local photography club – why? …….. well you will soon get involved with photo competitions and you will need aerosol spray adhesive to mount your prints to the mount board. You then have it in hand for model engineering use also – and you have justified the expense! Alternatively seek out a 'photo fanatic and scrounge a go with his spray can!

Good luck!

Norman

Edited By NJH on 19/02/2017 16:20:48

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