Please help with fitting a Myford Tri Leva

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

A bought a Myford Tri Leva attachment for my ML7 a while back, and got around to start fitting in today.

I assumed it would be 'obvious' and I could work it out from the pile of bits. Turns out this was naive!!

I've read the half page entry on installation in the Myford ML7 manual, but it's not very thorough (at least not for a semi newcomer).

Therefore I'm hoping a kind fellow Tri Leva owner can talk me through the full installation process; beginning from removal of the existing headstock bits.

Thanks in advance.

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

bump

[Jim CahillParticipant @jimcahill55556]

I had a Trileva ML7 many years ago and found the attachment a complete nuisance. I took two of the belts off and fitted an electronic speed control. I used the one active lever as a clutch. Thereafter it was a super lathe within its limitations. To this day I have never figured out why the previous owner hadn't put the cost of the trileva attachment towards a Super 7 instead.

[Jim CahillParticipant @jimcahill55556]

I just noticed there is a Raglan 5" for sale. I has a variator for speed control. I can thoroughly recommend the Raglan. You should be quids in if you sell your Myford.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

I have spoken with the vendor (of the Raglan 5” offered in the forum advert section). It is most certainly a 5” model, but is either a very early example, or (more likely) a cheaper ‘ schools’ variant of the normal 5”, in that it has the same ( well, very similar) carriage to the Little John. The cross slide is likely improved and it does have the larger diameter lead screw. I changed from a LJ to the 5” for the advantages of the better designed, and somewhat superior, apron.

However, I agree with Jim. You get a far superior lathe compared to the average myford. I am, of course, not biased in any way whatsoever .

Extra bits of info are that while the change-wheel LJs were convertible to QCGB, the 5” models, without, are not so easily converted. These lathes will have the wider (stronger) drive train gears, compared to the earlier LJ Mkll lathes, along with the 5” adjuster (easier and better than the multi position banjo of the later LJs).

At 3 1/2 cwt, and probably a bit, they are more robust than a myford, but I have loade several in and out of my Citroen Saxo without too much hassle – and without any assistance on occasions. The stand would likely need a second trip for my Saxo as I think it might be overweight for the roof rack!

Kevan is open to offers – and I am sure it is a genuine lathe in good mechanical order, even if it may need a motor repair or change.

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

To get back to the original question:

If you have a look at the pictures of a partially assembled Tri-Leva on lathes.co.uk here **LINK** together with the parts diagram at section S of the ML7 manual it might give you an idea of how to proceed

 

Edited By Robbo on 20/01/2018 14:56:28

[davebParticipant @daveb17630]

You have to undo the headstock screws, these are usually very tight. Fit the lower belt guide, remove spindle and fit belts, assemble top end and fit belts to countershaft pulley. Adjust belts one at a time until they are just tight enough, if they are too tight the roller frame will distort and cause the belt to ride off and jam. Some patience is required to get it right, I persevered and was happy very with the outcome. There is enough effort involved for many people to look at alternatives, but they would probably prefer a Super7 anyway.

Daveb

[Cornish JackParticipant @cornishjack]

One point worth noting – make sure that the 3 belts are matching. I did a belt change on mine many years ago … twice!! I eventually got the message and bought a complete new SET!

rgds

Bill

 

P S – just to add, it is a most useful BASIC accessory (3 levers locked to change chucks etc., and instant speed change 'on the run' ) – if you add a VFD it becomes superb.

B

Edited By Cornish Jack on 20/01/2018 18:04:14

Edited By Cornish Jack on 20/01/2018 18:04:53

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

Posted by daveb on 20/01/2018 15:28:54:

You have to undo the headstock screws, these are usually very tight. Fit the lower belt guide, remove spindle and fit belts, assemble top end and fit belts to countershaft pulley. Adjust belts one at a time until they are just tight enough, if they are too tight the roller frame will distort and cause the belt to ride off and jam. Some patience is required to get it right, I persevered and was happy very with the outcome. There is enough effort involved for many people to look at alternatives, but they would probably prefer a Super7 anyway.

Daveb

Thanks for the specific instructions Dave. Do you mind me PM'ing you if I get stuck along the way?

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

Posted by Cornish Jack on 20/01/2018 18:00:47:

One point worth noting – make sure that the 3 belts are matching. I did a belt change on mine many years ago … twice!! I eventually got the message and bought a complete new SET!

rgds

Bill

P S – just to add, it is a most useful BASIC accessory (3 levers locked to change chucks etc., and instant speed change 'on the run' ) – if you add a VFD it becomes superb.

B

Edited By Cornish Jack on 20/01/2018 18:04:14

Edited By Cornish Jack on 20/01/2018 18:04:53

Thanks Bill.

The supplied trinity of belts do seem a bit ragged – where would you suggest I buy a matched replacement set. Don't think new Myford sell them.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by choochoo_baloo on 20/01/2018 22:56:13:

Posted by Cornish Jack on 20/01/2018 18:00:47:

One point worth noting – make sure that the 3 belts are matching. I did a belt change on mine many years ago … twice!! I eventually got the message and bought a complete new SET!

rgds

Bill

P S – just to add, it is a most useful BASIC accessory (3 levers locked to change chucks etc., and instant speed change 'on the run' ) – if you add a VFD it becomes superb.

B

Edited By Cornish Jack on 20/01/2018 18:04:14

Edited By Cornish Jack on 20/01/2018 18:04:53

Thanks Bill.

The supplied trinity of belts do seem a bit ragged – where would you suggest I buy a matched replacement set. Don't think new Myford sell them.

Any industrial supply house that sells bearings and belts and the like should be able to supply a matched set of three belts if you give them the belt number, or dimensions. Make sure you ask for a proper matched set of three belts, designed to run on three-groove pulleys, or they might just give you three single belts out of the box.

[thaiguzziParticipant @thaiguzzi]

Nice Raglan 5" on the Lathes.co.uk website. Gearbox, well tooled, clean, decent price.

Posted by not done it yet on 20/01/2018 14:39:19:

I have spoken with the vendor (of the Raglan 5” offered in the forum advert section). It is most certainly a 5” model, but is either a very early example, or (more likely) a cheaper ‘ schools’ variant of the normal 5”, in that it has the same ( well, very similar) carriage to the Little John. The cross slide is likely improved and it does have the larger diameter lead screw. I changed from a LJ to the 5” for the advantages of the better designed, and somewhat superior, apron.

However, I agree with Jim. You get a far superior lathe compared to the average myford. I am, of course, not biased in any way whatsoever .

Extra bits of info are that while the change-wheel LJs were convertible to QCGB, the 5” models, without, are not so easily converted. These lathes will have the wider (stronger) drive train gears, compared to the earlier LJ Mkll lathes, along with the 5” adjuster (easier and better than the multi position banjo of the later LJs).

At 3 1/2 cwt, and probably a bit, they are more robust than a myford, but I have loade several in and out of my Citroen Saxo without too much hassle – and without any assistance on occasions. The stand would likely need a second trip for my Saxo as I think it might be overweight for the roof rack!

Kevan is open to offers – and I am sure it is a genuine lathe in good mechanical order, even if it may need a motor repair or change.

[Cornish JackParticipant @cornishjack]

"The supplied trinity of belts do seem a bit ragged – where would you suggest I buy a matched replacement set. Don't think new Myford sell them.

Sorry, CCB – it was a looooong time ago and cannot remember source. The other point to bear in mind, of course, is that the external surface is important 'cos the engaging jockey wheels run on them!!

rgds

Bill

[davebParticipant @daveb17630]

Posted by choochoo_baloo on 20/01/2018 22:54:15:

Posted by daveb on 20/01/2018 15:28:54:

Thanks for the specific instructions Dave. Do you mind me PM'ing you if I get stuck along the way?

You're welcome, I will help if I can. Daveb

[paul1Participant @paul1]

CCB

I fitted a Tri-Leva to my ML7 a few years ago. So far as I know the belts are standard Myford headstock drive belts. That's what I use anyway. I got mine from lathespares.co.uk. Hope this helps.

Paul

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

I've bought a few belts from beltingonline.com The official belt shpe and length must be well known and easy to find out. Worth checking the prices against. It looks as if they sell Fenner (India) belts.

The belts I bought last week said they were "matched" according to the info printed on them. As they were all different sizes, I assume it is implying that belts of the same size are suitable for running on multi-groove pulleys.

Murray

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

I have almost finished fitting the Tri Leva. Unfortunately one piece is missing: "S59 Link". Fortunately it’ll be simple to make from scratch.

 

Therefore can any Tri Leva owners please post the dimensions of the part "S59 Link" which I've circled in red from scans of the ML7 manual:

 

 

 

 

Is mild steel plate, subsequently chemically blackened, a good material choice?

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 14/02/2018 00:12:31

[MeunierParticipant @meunier]

Just done a rough measure, most with digi caliper, couple with 6in rule.

o/a length 73mm, width 19mm, 2.2mm thick material, adj slot 24mm long starting 6.8mm from L/H end, hole at R/H end about 10mm from end (best guess I could get with a slim ruler and MK1 eyeball )
Not the most accessible piece to measure so some minor parallax error on the caliper jaws inevitable but you have enough length of adj slot to compensate !
Your material choice sounds good
HTH
DaveD

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I love this forum…

Question: How do I fit this tri-leva attachment I bought?

Answer: Sell your lathe and the attachment and buy a new one.

Neil

[Billy BeanParticipant @billybean67480]

Neil – I like that answer.

For spare parts , technical advice, drawings, etc, you will find Myford extremely helpful.

myfordinfo@aol.com is the e-mail or 01422-885766

BB

[davebParticipant @daveb17630]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 15/02/2018 15:58:02:

I love this forum…

Question: How do I fit this tri-leva attachment I bought?

Answer: Sell your lathe and the attachment and buy a new one.

Neil

This is the place to come to for good advice.

[choochoo_balooParticipant @choochoo_baloo]

Posted by Meunier on 15/02/2018 15:05:54:

Just done a rough measure, most with digi caliper, couple with 6in rule.

o/a length 73mm, width 19mm, 2.2mm thick material, adj slot 24mm long starting 6.8mm from L/H end, hole at R/H end about 10mm from end (best guess I could get with a slim ruler and MK1 eyeball )
Not the most accessible piece to measure so some minor parallax error on the caliper jaws inevitable but you have enough length of adj slot to compensate !
Your material choice sounds good
HTH
DaveD

Brilliant, thanks a lot Dave.

[MeunierParticipant @meunier]

You are welcome, CC_B, I get a lot from this forum, happy to be able to give a little back.
DaveD

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