New here, just bought myself a Myford ML10 :)!

[Higgins1994Participant @higgins1994]

hi, im new to the forum but not entirly new to machining. im a coded MIG welder by trade but do a bit of work on the lathe from time to time at work, i and ive got a little EMCO unimat 3 that although tiny has produced some very nice peices so i have taught myself a bit over the years.

ive wanted an old Myford since seeing some of the kit they had on their stall at the model engineering exibition at alexandra palace, always had my heart set on a super 7 but their way out of my price range unfortunatly but have just bagged a decent looking ML10 on ebay for £480 and am going to collect it at the weekend ! cant wait to get it home and give it a once over, i will post the results and some pics then.

cheer,

josh.

[Higgins1994Participant @higgins1994]

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Good luck with your purchase. You have achieved your ambition, so now onwards to make some larger items.

There is a good video on you tube, by a forum member, which shows the machine and lots of extras that you might like to own in the future.

[Brian HParticipant @brianh50089]

Hello Josh and welcome. If you ave any questions, but maybe not about MIG welding!, Just ask on here. There are plenty of people on here with ML 10s and other similar lathes who will be able to answer questions.

I good source of specific ML 10 info is:

**LINK**

Brian

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Welcome!

With a lathe, all sorts of jobs that were "impossible" are now withing your range.

Yesterday, SWMBO complained that the hose kept blowing off the bras Hoselock type tap fitting.

Few minutes with a parting tool, to move the locking face cured that problem.

So your lathe can bring domestic bliss as well as personal satisfaction.

Howard

[Chris CrewParticipant @chriscrew66644]

I don't want to dampen your enthusiasm because the ML10 will do everything it says on the tin, but I think you will find operating on it very inconvenient to the point of being a pain in the neck. I can say this because, although I am a Super 7 and Colchester user, I acquired a late colleague's ML10, mostly out of respect because I had no real use for it. Despite being in superb condition and very well equipped it was being left to rust and rot. Having had the opportunity to compare the two Myford machines I concluded the ML10 was not one of Myford's better ideas. Obviously built down to an entry level price with a lot of corners being cut, IMO it does not do justice to the Myford marque. A few days fiddling with the back-gear and change-wheel arrangements which does not include any sort of reversing mechanism, coupled with a guard that hangs off a stud and a belt guard that opens awkwardly forward forced me to the decision that it must be moved on. Clearly, there will be some people who will cherish their ML10 as much as I cherish my Super 7 and Colchester, and vehemently disagree with my opinion, but the ML10 is not a lathe that I could recommend to anyone despite mine being for sale.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

Welcome to the nuthouse Joshua

Your welding expertise will give you a huge advantage once you start knocking parts out

And don't worry about having a lesser unit in the early stages, I struggled along for 10 years with a very limited worn out machine until I got a proper full setup recently

I think a full power unit from day one would have done me a serious injury, they are not to be messed with

Edited By Ady1 on 09/06/2021 00:15:30

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

Hi Joshua

My old and much missed mate had an ML10, he turned out countless Stuart turner engines, a Rob Roy, Lion and a Pansy ( some jobs on this on an old Colchester I had) . Apart from a small drill press it was his only machine tool, he treasured the lathe and I never heard him complain about it. He was too busy using it!

So it may not have the convenience of some of the larger more expensive lathes but they are capable little machines, and like a lot of the smaller, cheaper machines that have been available over the years can turn out (sorry!) good work and provide much enjoyment.

Hope you have many happy hours with it.

Dave

 

Edited By Dave Wootton on 09/06/2021 06:09:34

[RedsetterParticipant @redsetter]

Joshua,

I have owned and used a variety of lathes over the years, and bought an ML10 recently when I had to downsize, It was the best option available locally at the time and ideal for my newly restricted space. I like it, and will be keeping it even if I have room for a second, larger lathe in future.

Like any machine it has its quirks and you have to get used to them, but it is an excellent compact lathe which will do most of what an ML7 will do. It is far better designed and built than the Chinese equivalents. ML10s have usually been owned by modelmakers or clockmakers, have only had light use, and been well looked after. This makes them a much safer buy for a novice than a 7 series, many of which have had an absolute pasting.

Usefully, they are easily dismantled into their main components for transport and can be reassembled again without loss of accuracy.

Two disadvantages – one is that some parts are relatively scarce and expensive. The other is that for some reason, there is always someone ready to pick holes in them.

[Jim GuthrieParticipant @jimguthrie82658]

The ML10 was built down to a price. It was Myford's attempt to provide a small lathe for model engineers with limited resources who couldn't afford Myford's larger and more expensive options. I got one almost fifty years ago when I could just about afford one and I've never regretted it, and it's still working fine. I can't remember ever needing a tumbler reverse on the gear train, and I've never had a problem changing a belt speed.

If you haven't already got one fitted, a leadscrew clutch is a good accessory to get – maybe difficult to access these days but it would not be too difficult to make one yourself. Another nice-to-have accessory is the longer cross-slide which gives a good bit more room to work in. On the shorter cross-slide it was almost impossible to leave a rear toolpost mounted semi-permanently when machining because of the lack of room.

Jim.

[Higgins1994Participant @higgins1994]

hi thank you all for the warm welcome looking forward to embarking on some more serious machining

interesting to hear the differing opinions of the ML10 haha im well aware that it is more of a budget machine but its definatly a step up from what ive owned so far, the EMCO is decent but tiny and before that i had an old Zyto with wrecked bearings haha im assuming itll be good to get to grips with machining on a simple machine anyway to start with and in the future when i can afford somthing a bit more advanced i can take a step up.

couldnt afford much more atm tbh and got a nice load of tooling, a Dickson QCTP, 2X 3jaws and a 4jaw, steady and a few 2MT centres so not too bad for the £££

ah after a bit of reading a lead screw clutch did appear to be the best upgrade to start off with and is now top of my list once its home and set up

counting down the days till saturday now and will post some pics when ive got it home and cleaned up

cheers

[Higgins1994Participant @higgins1994]

picked it up yesterday and very happy with it, im always nervous when picking up anything on ebay and had convinced myself the headstock and bed would be wrecked but was pleasantly suprised! as soon as i got it home i stripped/degreased and lubricated the saddle/crossslide/topslide and tailstock and adjusted the gibs and it is ever so slightly looser within the 'worked' area but was still able to adjust the gibs to remove any freeplay and still slide up and down with ease. the headstock spins nice and smooth with no freeplay side to side so am leaving the bearings as they are and just topped them up with H32.

it seems to have been looked after the guy who was selling it has never used it and he bought it from a local gunsmith a few months back so cant imagine its been abused too much, according to its serial number it was made between 1975 and 1985 but its not roller bearings so presumably pre 1978.

will get some pics up later on

[egaParticipant @ega]

Good luck with your new lathe!

I remember asking a Nottingham Myford representative why they stopped making the ML10 and was told, in effect, that they couldn't make them at a profit.

[Phil H1Participant @philh196021]

Josh,

I used a Myford ML10 in the early 80s for a few years. I bought it brand new with roller bearings and mine was absolutely superb – I couldn't fault it at all.

I actually liked its compactness. I am not using it now because I have a Myford Super 7 (my dads lathe). I am one of the people that completely disagree with Chris. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the ML10.

[Higgins1994Participant @higgins1994]

hi, well after a few days of getting it set up nicely and messing around i am loving it it may be simple but i cant see why anyone would fault it it terms of quality, bit of a learning curve in terms of tool grinding but a top of the range machine wouldnt change that haha

[Higgins1994Participant @higgins1994]

im just begining to make a leadscrew clutch today, the only thing ive noticed that i am slightly worried about is that there seems to be oil leaking from around the base of the oil cups. im not sure if their standard as there much bigger than they look in the factory photos on lathes.co.uk. i top them up before every use and check them often and they dont seem to go down particularly fast but there does seem to be a lot of oil on the headstock around their bases im assuming this isnt normal so going to wip them off to take a look later today.

From what ive read it would require modification to the belt guard but im thinking of fitting drip feeders, are they worth the effort fitting?

[geoff warner 1Participant @geoffwarner1]

hi i also had an ml10 and found it a very good lathe i sold it to a person who was just in to lathe work however if you look for myford boy on youtube you will see the capabilities of this machine so good luck

[Jim GuthrieParticipant @jimguthrie82658]

Posted by Higgins1994 on 18/06/2021 12:50:15:

im just begining to make a leadscrew clutch today, the only thing ive noticed that i am slightly worried about is that there seems to be oil leaking from around the base of the oil cups. im not sure if their standard as there much bigger than they look in the factory photos on lathes.co.uk. i top them up before every use and check them often and they dont seem to go down particularly fast but there does seem to be a lot of oil on the headstock around their bases im assuming this isnt normal so going to wip them off to take a look later today.

From what ive read it would require modification to the belt guard but im thinking of fitting drip feeders, are they worth the effort fitting?

The one problem I had with my ML10 early on was running the bearings in the countershaft. I had been fastidious about oiling the headstock bearings but had forgotten about the countershaft. I was able to repair the countershaft with the help of the mechanical workshop where I was employed but I didn't want the possibility of the same happening with the headstock. So I fitted a pair of wick fed lubricators to the headstock which did require cutting clearance slots in the belt cover. But at least I feel reasonably confident that there will be much less possibility of damaging headstock bearings on long running jobs. I suspect that your previous owner might well have had similar thoughts and fitted larger oil cups.

And the oil has to go somewhere on a total loss system. My ML10 headstock has a fair amount of oil around it and on it which needs a wipe from a rag every so often.

Jim.

[Douglas JohnstonParticipant @douglasjohnston98463]

Another very happy owner here (in my case a Speed 10 variant ). They are well made lathes and 20 odd years down the line my one is still as good as new. They are not perfect, but no lathe ever is, and this robust small machine will do a lot of things if one is realistic about size of work.

Doug

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Higgins1994 on 18/06/2021 12:50:15:

… i am slightly worried about is that there seems to be oil leaking from around the base of the oil cups. im not sure if their standard as there much bigger than they look in the factory photos on lathes.co.uk. …

Oil being slippery stuff leaks through miniscule gaps, so it's not surprising it escapes. Try wrapping the cup threads with PTFE tape and fitting a rubber washer.

Apart from the mess, the leak doesn't matter provided the bearing gets oiled. You could use the leak as a reminder to wipe down the bed and other metalwork regularly with a clean oily rag! It's a feature!

Dave

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember12892]

[This posting has been removed]

[RedsetterParticipant @redsetter]

Posted by Higgins1994 on 18/06/2021 12:50:15:

im just begining to make a leadscrew clutch today, the only thing ive noticed that i am slightly worried about is that there seems to be oil leaking from around the base of the oil cups. im not sure if their standard as there much bigger than they look in the factory photos on lathes.co.uk. i top them up before every use and check them often and they dont seem to go down particularly fast but there does seem to be a lot of oil on the headstock around their bases im assuming this isnt normal so going to wip them off to take a look later today.

From what ive read it would require modification to the belt guard but im thinking of fitting drip feeders, are they worth the effort fitting?

I have oversize oil cups on mine with wick feeds, and this works fine. No real advantage in drip feeds, you will not be working continuously, they are quite bulky and fragile, and some of the readily available imported ones do not work properly anyway. The plain headstock bearings are considered to be long-lived and should rarely if ever need adjustment. Don't forget the oil point on the countershaft.

Apart from the leadscrew clutch, I think it is worth adding a carriage stop and/or a graduated handwheel for the leadscrew.

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

I have found the graduated drum on the lead screw very useful.

I do recommend you fit one. It's use makes cutting to length very easy. In use i face off the work and then set the graduated drum to Zero, all traverse work done from that setting.

[Higgins1994Participant @higgins1994]

hi thanks good to be here its great to hear so many good accounts of them

ah good good i was worried that if its escaping/leaking the bearings will be running dry but tbh ive been running it on and off for most of the day and i reckon it would have worn out or seized if they had haha.

since seeing what can happen as with my old Zyto the headstock bearings are my biggest worry so i am very OCD about keeping all the oil cups topped up including the countershaft and motor

the cups that are on it are about 15-17mm diameter and have a wick down in the bottom

[Higgins1994Participant @higgins1994]

ah ok i may as well stick to the setup ive got then and try and seal them a bit better, as long as i know their getting oil to the bearings i shall rest easy ill have a look around for a dial for the leadscrew that is a good shout, myford have them but they are not resettable

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