Need a Frame 56 size motor pulley

[RobinParticipant @robin]

[RobinParticipant @robin]

I cannot find a pulley to fit a frame 56 motor and I am starting to think the world hates me.

The spindle is 11mm diameter by 23mm long with a 4mm Woodruff.

I tried a 50mm taper lock but the screws are on the wrong end.

Surely to God I cannot be the only person on planet Earth who wants to do this

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Do you have a lathe, or is this the motor for it? It would be easy to get a pulley with a standard larger bore, say 13 or 19 mm, and make a little bush which you loctite in place.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

RDG Tools sells V belt pulleys with 6mm bore that could be bored out to suit. Cutting keyway is easy with a boring bar in the lathe with toolbit turned sideways and racked back and forth like a slotter. I've done it with cast iron gears so an aluminium pulley should be easy.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

The alternative to the RDG pulley is make your own…..

When I converted my WM290 clone to vfd/3ph motor, I made my own pulley to suit the new motor ( frame 90 size….)

Making the keyway is probably the most difficult operation but doable in the lathe….

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Robin

I don't follow your comment about screws on taper lock bushings being on the wrong end. When used with a motor taper lock bushes release by pushing the pulley towards the motor releasing the lock on the shaft so the assembly can be withdrawn. Has to be that way for screws to be accessible.

Clive.

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

Making your own pulley is a straightforward lathe exercise. Quicker than looking for the rare exact beast that you need. Boring or bushing standard pulleys is not difficult either. At a pinch you can cut the keyway with an appropriate tool held in the toolpost and traversing the carriage, if you don't have a slotting device.

I am no great fan of taper lock systems. They are not very accurate or repeatable, one was used on a 12" rotary spark gap. It was almost impossible to get it running true. Though it would be OK for a small pulley.

Andrew.

[RobinParticipant @robin]

Henry at Bearing Shop has just patiently explained to me that the problem is the smaller sized pulleys where there is not enough meat between the groove base and the taper lock bushing.

The shaft would have to be 37mm long to reach out through the pulley and then through the taper lock. They cannot overlap. I only have 23mm.

Apparently the first Z pulley that does not suffer with this is the 67mm and as Henry has no problem refunding my silly mistake I can shop with confidence.

Still not totally clear on what i have bought. I like the automotive belts, with the cross cut inside edge to help it bend. Unfortunately they give outside diameter, 595mm, the inside diameter, 544mm, but no PCD so it's a pig in a poke.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Not sure what your problems is. Henry will bore the pulley to size for you and add a keyway. Did he explain that a woodruff key would be in the shaft and your picture already shows a key in the motor shaft so you just want a keyway. Does get a bit expensive though. If you have a lathe but this is the motor you should be able to jury rig a handle, turn the hole, fit to the motor using the grugscrew while you make a slotting attachment to make the keyway.

[John RuddParticipant @johnrudd16576]

The alternative to cutting the keyway in the pulley is to drill and tap on centre, if the key is 4mm then use M4 grub screws….but dont let them bear down on the shaft. Cut some small 4 mm dia brass to fit flush with the key way.

This will allow you to lock the pulley onto the shaft without having to cut a keyway and protects the shaft from the grub screw, it also affords a degree of protection of overload too….the brass being soft takes the brunt…

Edited By John Rudd on 07/08/2018 12:42:43

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

One method of reducing the bore of a pulley, and putting a keyway in was in ME somewhere in the 1990s.Make a bush to fit the pulley, and bore it to the shaft size, then cut a slot along it to the width of the key. Next fit the bush in the pulley with a shaft lock adhesive, leave it over night. Drill for grub screws, I put one over the key, and one at right angles, ie 90* round the circumference.

Ian S C

[Ian AustinParticipant @ianaustin]

I have an SPZ taper lock pulley and bush here in hand.

I see from your photo that your bush is a 1008 11mm bore, and the SPZ pulley is two groove.

Ok, so mine is a little bigger – SPZ 1210 18mm bore, but still a 2 groove SPZ pulley.

The pulley is 28mm axial length, so I assume yours is too?

And the bush – although a bigger size – has an axial length of 25.5mm (with the 2.5mm recess on the motor side). So I would have thought you could get a 1008 bush somewhere that is also 25.5mm long, at the most. But because its more tiddly, maybe you'd even find a 1008 bush that's 22mm or so long.

Try googling around suppliers catalogues to see if you can't get a thinner bush.

[Ian AustinParticipant @ianaustin]

Look, here you go –

http://www.bearing.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Taperlock-bushes.pdf

1008 bush, axial length 7/8" = 22.25mm. Perfect.

EDIT:

Sorry, just realised you've got a single groove pulley (was about to ask why you needed a 2-groove pulley, looked again at your photo).

Not to worry. Have a look at this catalogue below, you'll see you can get SPZ pulleys for 1008 bushes that are also 22mm axial length. Yes these are Australian catalogues but you know where it all comes from, eh? If they're here, they'll be there close to you too.

http://www.bearing.net.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/SKF-Pulley-Catalogue.pdf

Edited By Ian Austin on 07/08/2018 13:47:36

[larry phelan 1Participant @larryphelan1]

My local supplier keeps pulleys in many different sizes,most of them blank,so that they can be bored to suit. He can arrange to have this done if required,not all that dear,and it gets the job up and running.

Dont bother messing around.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Robin,

You have evidently measured the motor shaft, so this is of no consequence … but I'm surprised:

So far as I was previously aware, frame 56 described a motor to NEMA standard, dimensioned in inches.

According to this list (just found) the shaft would normally be 5/8" diameter. **LINK**

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/nema-electrical-motor-frame-dimensions-d_1504.html

… perhaps the standard has been updated [?]

MichaelG.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

IEC 63 Frame is 11mm dia

Edited By JasonB on 07/08/2018 15:27:19

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by JasonB on 07/08/2018 15:24:59:

IEC 63 Frame is 11mm dia

.

Good point, Jason … but Robin mentioned 56, so maybe my confusion has shifted.

**LINK**

IEC Quick Reference Chart

MichaelG.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I wonder if it is Robin who is confused, as the 63 frame also has a 23mm long shaft, not the longer ones found on the imperial motors.

Would also expect a 56 to be about 7" O/A dia and that motor look less when compared to the callipers

Edited By JasonB on 07/08/2018 15:47:06

[RobinParticipant @robin]

Robin is always confused. If the 63 has an 11mm shaft it is probably a 63.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

50mm x 11mm Vee belt pulleys on e-bay, just cut your own keyway or do as mentioned above.

J

PS that is not a Woodruff key in your shaft either

[RobinParticipant @robin]

A bit expensive if I have to cut the keyway myself, and on a slow boat from China to boot.

Okay, not a Woodruff , an M4 whadda-ya-ma-call-it key.

Is there no end to my humiliation?

[Ian AustinParticipant @ianaustin]

You seem overlooked that I demonstrated the correct taper lock bush and pulley (i.e. 22mm 'long', to fit the length of your shaft) are available. Just call a good industrial supplier and ensure they understand the limiting factor is the axial length. The products are available. You just need to specify correctly.

[RobinParticipant @robin]

Hi Ian

Everything is available at a price but I could easily start to haemmorhage cash on this, and that is not a word I would usually attempt without a spell checker.

Here's an idea. I make a false nose for the motor shaft to extend it at a larger diameter and then Taperlock the pulley to that.

The new plan means buying an 11mm reamer and a 4mm broach but I can then change the pulley to fit the desgn rather than change the design to fit the pulley.

I need to get back in control of the design. Right now it is all drawing and shopping, I want to do some measuring and cutting.

Robin

[Ian AustinParticipant @ianaustin]

Ha, too easy to "engineer" in front of a computer screen! I know that one!

It just so happened that I bought a couple of taper lock pulleys only last week, so that's why I'm specced up on them. I was really surprised how cheap they were – from the major trade-industrial supplier here too – the one with the usually-scary prices. Two bushes and two pulleys (1210 size) for $40 which is about £23.

Better to have a reamer and broach hanging around than a disused pulley – good plan!

[RobinParticipant @robin]

Have you actually spun up a Taperlock pulley? Andrew Tinsley said they are neither accurate nor repeatable which is not encouraging.

The other pulley in the pair connects to a hardened and ground shaft with no trace of key, Woodruff or otherwise.

It's a grinder so load is minimal but accurate and repeatable are more than a bit desireable, Obviously I need minimal vibration, which is why I am fighting to fit this dinky 1/3 hp cap run motor.

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