MYFORD LATHE LUBRICATION, yet again !

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Having been asked what oils or lubricants should be used on a Myford lathe or where to buy such by a new owner and finding no thread on the point, I hope the following may be helpful ! It is gleaned from Myford published documents and my own experience !

For the oilgun, ISO 32 or SAE 10 oil. This can be a mineral hydraulic or engine oil and can be found at a hydraulics company or an agricultural firm, needless to say also any good oil suppliers. To avoid the extortion that is buying oil in 1Ls take a container with you, it MIGHT help to keep costs down.

For those parts where an ordinary oil can is used ISO 68 or SAE30 oil, once again mineral hydraulic or engine oil. There are speciallist slideway oils to this spec available !

In the absence of the above almost any mineral car engine oil will be better than nothing !

It has been said that grease should NOT be used, but I quote ! " For starred items, ROCOL MTS1000 or Castrol MS3 grease should be used !" This referes to the gear teeth of the back gear, change wheels, lead screw, rack and the cross slide/top slide feed screws.

If you are minded to change the oil nipples with grease nipples and use a grease gun with oil in it be VERY careful, as the way the gun chuck may lock on and in pulling it to one side to get it to release you may pull the nipple and small (2BA or 6mm) thread out. This is not the end of the world but does cause more work !

If using the back gear or change wheel trains remember to lubricate frequently ! The back gear nipple is not always easy to see or find and the change wheel bushes need the oil can.

If your motor has oilers, or grease nipples ONLY LUBRICATE VERY SPARINGLY. Over lubrication will cause unwanted heat and may well foul the centrifugal switch ! Be warned !

I have not named manufacturers or supplies as the list is endless !

I hope this may prove helpfull, Noel.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

the lubricants to be used.

[Bob McParticipant @bobmc91481]

Thanks Noel,

that's very handy to know as I have just refurbished an old Super 7, I am looking for an oil gun now with the right nipple connector but not sure which one… any ideas welcome

thanks .. Bob.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by Bob Mc on 05/03/2022 17:13:34:

Thanks Noel,

that's very handy to know as I have just refurbished an old Super 7, I am looking for an oil gun now with the right nipple connector but not sure which one… any ideas welcome

thanks .. Bob.

I got one from pressparts.co.uk that works well. No leaks. Cost about 20 quid. Only thing is the nozzle on it will not get into the back gear pulley nipple so I use an oil can with the brass fitting on the end turned down to a fine enough point to fit into the hole in the nipple where the ball sits. It works fine. One day, when I get a round tuit, I will make a slimmer nozzle to fit the oil gun.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Grease on the change gears is a bit messy and archaic these days.

I use spray can motorcycle chain lube, the clear no-mess teflon variety for street bikes. (Not the black, messy graphite off-road version!). Spray it on and let it set overnight or at least an hour before use and it stays in place without flinging off everywhere. Very tidy.

Other than that, i have always just used whatever leftover engine oil is in the bottom of the 5 litre containers after bike and car oil changes. Usually a 10/40 or 20/50 grade so in the ballpark. Seems to work ok. The old Drummond has been running like that since Dad bought it in 1954, with no adverse affects so far. It is still a very accurate machine.

There are those who worry about engine oils holding particles in suspension but that applies to microscopic engine wear particles and carbon more than swarf-sized lumps. And the oil in an ML7 is not recirculated. It goes in the top of the main bearing and flows promptly out around the edges so taking any wear particles with it, so I suspect suspension is moot. Same with carriage lube etc with the oil gun.

The main thing is to lube the machine regularly with something.

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

Fully synthetic engine oil. 21st century.

Anything else is futile.

Steve.

[DiogenesIIParticipant @diogenesii]

Posted by Steviegtr on 06/03/2022 01:43:55:

Fully synthetic engine oil. 21st century.

Anything else is futile.

Steve.

Can you explain why please…

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

SAME QUESTION AS ABOVE ? The machine was designed in the 40s/50s The oils I have mentioned are those the machine was built to use. Have you used sythetics in a car of the 50s ? WHY do most good oil manufacturers have a range of mineral oils for older machinery if it is not in your opinion needed ?

I take it you are an oils and lubricants specialist ! So.

3 questions ! Please give 3 answers with reasoning. Noel

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Modern engine oils, probably synthetics will contain additives which are not needed for slideway or shaft lubrication. (These applications will not to be proofed against high temperatures, oxidation, foaming and so on.

Unless they contain some particularly active ingredient, such as those in Hypoiid oils (liable to attack yellow metal bushes ) such lubricants may not be harmful, just a major overkill.

I tend to use the cheaper engine oils, which will have fewer additives, and be fairly freely available form supermarkets and motor accessory stores.

If "straight" oils of 10 to 30 SAE viscosity are available, at reasonable cost, they will be ideal.

With regard to getting the oil where it is needed, my choice would be a Reilang oil gun. They do not leak, and work at almost any angle. It was a huge relief after having used a genuine Myford oil gun for years . It looked like a grease gun, and probably was, but leaked oil..

Howard

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

Synthetic oil clings much better to all surfaces.

I am not an oil specialist. But having built quite a few performance engines in the past can confirm it is far superior to mineral oil.

However i guess a lot of people think some old mineral oil is better for there machines.

I think a lot of special oils are special for a financial reason. Not all are & there are circumstances where a certain viscosity is required

Quite often related to hydraulic valve trains etc. Also gearboxes.

I don't think old or new lathes are actually built around oil.

I will continue to use whatever is on the shelf.

Many years ago Mobil oil did an experiment using a brand new Nissan 200sx. The car was ran for 200,000 miles, only doing the services as stated by the Nissan motor company. Using Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil This experiment was overseen by recognised company Something the RAC. I don't remember which it was.

The engine was disassembled & all components measured. The parts were still in tolerance for a new part. However If you only have some mineral car engine oil on the shelf , then i am sure that will suffice.

I am talking about general lube on a lathe. If it has a gearbox then that is different. That will be a oil type recommended.

Steve. .

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