David,
Below is a quick pic of one I have in pieces at present. If yours is like this then this is how it works. It is not sophisticated.
In the centre of the alloy pulley there is a steel boss with central collar and keyed onto the spindle. There is a tiny grubscrew in the collar which holds the key firmly in place on the spindle.
In the steel boss there are 2 socket cap screws and 2 threaded holes. Down these holes lurk 2 grubscrews which are used to keep a working clearance between the pully and the boss. Behind the pulley is the backgear spindle, with knurled top and with a hex nut on top to lock it. It is eccentric which may be why it looks out of line.
To use backgear, the 2 socket caps are removed, the grubscrews slacked off just a little bit, the hex nut on the knurled spindle loosened and the knurled spindle turned clockwise to engage the backgear. Hex nut tightened. backgear is thus engaged, pulley free to revolve on its spindle, and ready to go.
To return to normal, slacken hex nut, turn knurled spindle back anti-clockwise and tighten hex nut. Replace the 2 socket caps in their places (turn the pulley to find the holes of course) BUT DON'T TIGHTEN THEM YET. First tighten the 2 grubscrews so they are just firm, then tighten the socket caps. The grubscrews maintain the running clearance.
Should the running clearance be lost, then the pulley will have to be pulled up the spindle to restore it. this is where knowing about the tiny grubscrew by the key in the collar comes in, as it must be slackened first.
This is a lot easier to do or say than to write!! Obviously, there may be differences in the type of screws/bolts used.

Edited By Robbo on 20/11/2014 19:41:47
Edited By Robbo on 20/11/2014 19:44:11