LATHE

[Lee GouldingParticipant @leegoulding74917]

Hi All

Do you get the same accuracy from boring at the tailstock end using a steady or via the headstock with the work piece through the spindle bore hole

Thanks

[Lee GouldingParticipant @leegoulding74917]

Using a Lathe

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

If your material is poking into the spindle it is hard to ensure that it is not drooping as the chuck is tightened. If it is poking out the end of the spindle then it can be held in that position by a cat head. For a long item that is not long enough for a cat head I think the steady and 4 jaw chuck option will give you a better chance of the bore being aligned to the rest of the workpiece. This makes some assumptions about what has already been done to the workpiece before the boring operation. I have not done any work of this sort to be sure, it just seems likely so any one with experience feel free to correct me if it is wrong.

Martin

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

How long is your workpiece?

In general terms it is harder to ensure the work is accurately supported by a steady, but it can be done.

Neil

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 10/03/2017 19:10:32:

How long is your workpiece?

In general terms it is harder to ensure the work is accurately supported by a steady, but it can be done.

Neil

Agreed, the adjustably between different designs makes it an uncertain centring procedure, however with 4 screws it's technically possible to have as much adjustment as a 4 jaw would give to you.

[Lee GouldingParticipant @leegoulding74917]

It's a tapered snooker cue and I've seen both methods online being used and I'm unsure if I need a 26mm bore lathe and use a steady rest to bore the butt out for weight or get a larger bore lathe and have the butt end in the 4 Jaw chuck

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Most people would put it through the spindle if they could (with tail end support if needed).

A steady is generally for things to large for the bore.

The problem with a cue is that a steady will mark the wood badly, even one with ball races on the fingers.

Neil

[Lee GouldingParticipant @leegoulding74917]

I'm surprised at that as there's a few top cue makers who use the steady method

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Posted by Lee Goulding on 10/03/2017 20:08:58:

It's a tapered snooker cue and I've seen both methods online being used and I'm unsure if I need a 26mm bore lathe and use a steady rest to bore the butt out for weight or get a larger bore lathe and have the butt end in the 4 Jaw chuck

Holding a tapered wood workpiece in a 3, 4, or even 6 jaw, is hardly an idea method. Since the grip lines of the jaws are parallel their corners are going to mark the surface. If the stock starts off cylindrical and is going to have its external taper cut later then the chuck method 'with the stock through the spindle' would be fine though.

I would not use roller fingers on a steady for the reason Neil mentioned, however but if you do use a steady use it to grip the OD of any suitable ballrace that is slipped on to the tapered cue.

Ian P

[Alan Wilkinson 1Participant @alanwilkinson1]

Make a tapered bush to fit cue then run steady on the bush easy

[Lee GouldingParticipant @leegoulding74917]

Hi Alan thanks for that so would you say it's worth spending the xtra money on a 38mm spindle bore like a new warco lathe or get a smaller 26mm bore lathe like the myford 254.. thanks

[Lee GouldingParticipant @leegoulding74917]

Thanks to all so far for replying

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