Height of your lathe

[Mike ClarkeParticipant @mikeclarke87958]

An engine crane would do it. I borrowed one from our local hire place and it was only about £20 – just make sure you observe change in capacity when extending arm. They will also have slings to loan if you need them.

I have no idea why they make lathes so low – I used to have an Emco that seemed designed for children.

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

I am 6ft tall and find that the most comfortable height for all my benches (including the lathe bench) is 36". This puts the lathe spindle centre (Warco WM 250 VF) 48" high approx. from ground level. Like some of you I also have spinal issues but at these heights I do not have to stoop when working – blessed relief!

Also, the lathe bench is now mobile so I can move it and the lathe away from the wall. Top heavy? Well a little maybe but with care and a little more stability thanks to the front castors in the "outrider" mode it has already paid of as the rear fuse had to be replaced recently.

I did wonder if those sticky out front castors might cause trip problems but I quickly got used to them protruding and so far have not found them to be a hazard.

Rik

[Bob Brown 1Participant @bobbrown1]

Concrete blocks would be my choice, cheap and easy to get hold of and well capable of taking the weight at 7.3 N/mm2 which in old numbers is over 1000 psi, even Celcon blocks at 2.9 N/mm2 should be strong enough, this assumes you spread the load with say a bit of flat bar. There are options to get it up, I raised my Boxford in steps one end at a time with a bottle jack and some bits of wood (4×2) but then not as heavy but not light.

Bob

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by fizzy on 28/03/2015 12:14:17:

any ideas on how to raise it given that it weighs 3/4 ton?

Same way you lifted it to get it into the workshop?

Lever it up and put in some cribbing, lever a bit more and add more cribbing , etc. You will soon have it 2-3 inches higher

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

I have the solution – sort of. Last week I unloaded my new (to me) small lathe from the car onto my hydraulic trolley. I whizzed it up and down a few times in moving and then looking at it.

I should have taken some pics then and now it is on the floor and too heavy to lift up again just for a photo. So please use your imagination to see the amusing picture below of a variable height lathe .

[ManofkentParticipant @manofkent]

Fizzy. Raising my L5 was done as follows: 1) the feet on the corners are threaded something like 3/4 Whit. Use these to get the lathe level first. 2) I used a big crowbar to lever the lathe up an inch, then put some wood under the end. Repeat as necessary until you can get the right height and something solid on it. The tail stock end tends to swivel when lifted due to the weight distribution.

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

What's the problem? My Bridgeport is 3 inches higher than usual and that weighs well over a ton!

[Peter G. ShawParticipant @peterg-shaw75338]

I'm 5'6" (1.67m) on a good day having lost a shade over 2" (50mm) off my back due to health issues. I suspect this may mean that my elbows are slightly below where they should be. Anyway:

When I set up my workshop 20 years ago, I set the top of the vice jaws about level with my elbow. The vice is a Record No. 3 which sets the bench height at 35" (890mm). And the lathe & drilling machine bench matches. Which means that the lathe bed is 8" (200mm) above that, ie 43" (1092mm) and the centre height a further 4" (105mm) above, ie 47" (1194mm) above the floor. All nominal, I might add.

Unfortunately, this is too high for me so I now use a box, 4.75" (121mm) high, to stand on when using the lathe.

Interestingly, I extended my drilling machine by 4" (100mm) to gain some extra daylight. I now have to use the box to comfortably operate that as well.

The milling machine is on a separate bench with the table about 41" (1040mm) above floor level. I find this quite comfortable to use.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Looks like there is some merit to the idea of setting the lathe height by reference to the spindle centreline and letting the controls fall where they will. Sounds like spindle height something around 45" off the floor works for folks a bit over 6 ft and 44" for those a little under. Presumably some pro-rata changes for folks rather taller or shorter.

When it comes to lifting levers aren't really suitable if you are working on your own as it gets very difficult to put anything much more than a levelling shim into the right place whilst holding the machine up. Engine cranes and the like are effective but space is a problem in most workshops especially as the legs really need to go under the machine. By the time its high enough for that you've pretty much solved the lifting issue anyway. The click-click-click clime up a beam ratchet high lift or farm jacks are effective, relatively inexpensive and stay put nicely given a little creativity. I've been known to add holes and bolt brackets onto both machine and jack tongue when I really want mine to behave. Proper thing is a toe jack but finding one of those at a sensible price can be hard, I finally managed but have never used it.

Car jacks work well and, being screw devices, are well behaved but need to be bolted into position for stability. I have 4 ex SAAB one with a selection of bolt on brackets and bars for various jobs. The big one I really need them for is lifting my Bridgeport up onto a large castored dolly whenever it needs to come out of its corner. One bar across the front with an L shaped one at each side so the machine column stabilises them against bending. Threaded insets in the bolt down holes to pick up on. My 1024, weighing in at around a ton and a half, needs to slide out away from the wall to check oil and coolant levels and re-fill if need be. I've made some widgets to fit four screw column type jacks in the lifting holes so it can easily be raised enough to slide some home brew 1 1/2" multi-wheel skates underneath to move it on.

If its on the makers cabinet stand the Harrison L5 is said to be fairly indifferent to level or flooring quality son long as it has a respectable amount of weight on each foot so heavy timbers should do fine underneath it. Wood is easier to handle than concrete blocks. No crumble problem either. Heavy duty pallets should supply some adequate material, centre parts rather than faces would probably be more appropriate. Or a sleeper from teh garden centre, new rather than reclaimed isn't silly expensive.

Clive

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I've just spent a couple of hrs in my man cave & measurement the height to the centre of my lathe cross slide handle is about 39", on its supplied cabinet and all the handles are within easy reach for me, but like many others I'm a short arse… 5' 6",… was 6' 12" when I was 21 but age has depleted my disc thickness over the years but as with others 'one must carry on' …& take some liquid pain relief…

George

[FMESParticipant @fmes]

Posted by Ian S C on 28/03/2015 07:38:58:

According to Lawrence H. Sparey in his book "The Amateur's Lathe". standing uprightagainst a wall with the arms extended downwards. Now bend the forearm upwards at the elbow and make a mark on the wall at the point where the bent elbow lies. It is at this height that the top surface of the topslide should be set.

Ian S C

I've heard this method before as well, and checking my elbows against my GH1330 that is just about the correct height for me, and I'm 6'4".

At work, we have sixty Harrison L300's all on original manufacturers stands and apprentices that have ranged from sub five feet tall to heading towards seven feet.

The only problems we ever have is that the littluns can't reach the top of the Bridgeports.

[Gray62Participant @gray62]

While I was in the workshop to day, I checked the height of my lathes, the Warco GH1330 top slide is around elbow height, for me that is around "46, the WM250V is a little higher at around "48 to the topslide, I find these a comfortable height, only suffer backache if I spend too long at any machine so I tend to take frequent breaks.

When I moved the GH1330 recently, I used a 3 tonne toe jack, manufactured from a car bottle jack, the advantage with a toe jack is that you only need about "1/2 gap to get the jack in, then you can lift an inch or two, put in blocks, reset, lift again, etc etc

Used the same jack today to re-position the Ajax Mill, this weighs around 2 tonnes and was no problem to lift and move.

Just to add, I'm 6' 2", the GH1330 sits on raising blocks, as supplied it was too low, the WM250V is on a purpose made bench, I looked at the manufacturers stand but this would have needed significant raising blocks to get it to the right height. I also don't think these 'cabinet' stands are not rigid enough for these machines.

Edited By CoalBurner on 28/03/2015 19:47:56

[Capstan SpeakingParticipant @capstanspeaking95294]

My lathe is the height of folly. It varies but I can always reach it.

[nigel jones 5Participant @nigeljones5]

I think all of the rule of thumb methods go out the window when you've got a bad back! Managed to raise it 3" today. Not brilliant but much better. Thanks all.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

I reckon cross slide handle should be level with your navel. To achieve this I mounted my last lathe (Colchester Chipmaster) on 6" solid concrete blocks. Put a bit of grout underneath to increase the surface contact area. Worked a treat, no rocking, why should it?

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