Carriage stop/dial gauge mount.

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

Morning All,

While looking on a well known auction site for a S/H Mitutoyo lever type indicator, I came across several of these for various lathes (including: Warco, Boxford, Harrison, Emco & Harrison). While they are made for dial gauge fitment, I'm sure they can be adapted to make a carriage stop. Not sure how they get around the differing vee angles that we experience. Yes, we can make our own, but for £25.00, and someone who hasn't got a mill (yet), it might be useful.

Not sure what it's made of, but I'm guessing it's aluminium.

"WARCO 240 & 250 Lathe Dial Indicator Gauge DTI Holder Clamp Mount DRO"

Sorry, but "cut & paste" doesn't seem to work for me.

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

Might be usefull?

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Posted by Bo'sun on 06/01/2021 10:30:44:…

Sorry, but "cut & paste" doesn't seem to work for me.

Can't help with the clamp, but browsers refusing to cut and paste with the mouse is a common security precaution. It's not a feature peculiar to this forum.

Problem is naughty hackers can write web scripts capable of imitating your computer's mouse cut, copy and paste commands. Thus they can paste their material on to your machine, or copy data from your computer back to base. The technique also works on any website you happen to be connected to, like your bank account.

The risk is prevented by blocking mouse commands. Then cut, paste, and copy must be applied from the keyboard (ctrl-x = cut , ctrl-c = copy, ctrl-v = paste) Keyboard commands are safer because they're applied by people rather than a script downloaded silently from the internet.

You might wonder what sort of website does this? Possibly reputable sites who have been hacked. This is most likely to happen to websites with lax security – not kept up to date etc. (Some site owners are naive about security and/or unwilling to spend money on it! Most common source though is dodgy sites – beware if you're into porn, illegal gambling, trolling, extreme politics, gossip, off-colour humour or anything else shady.

Dave

[Bo’sunParticipant @bosun58570]

Thanks Dave, but most of that has gone completely over my head, but I think I get your drift. Not into any of those things you mentioned at the end.

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

It's 3D printed plastic.

Tony

[Henry BrownParticipant @henrybrown95529]

My machine allowed me to cut and paste it ok. I had a look and downloaded an image – I might try to draw one in CAD to 3D print. Here a picture of one:

[IanTParticipant @iant]

Posted by Henry Brown on 06/01/2021 12:13:22:

I might try to draw one in CAD to 3D print.

And if you did Henry – I might try to print one!

Regards,

IanT

[Brian HParticipant @brianh50089]

Many thanks Henry, that looks very useful. If they are cheap enough I may buy one; otherwise it'll be a nice little workshop project.

Brian

[Clive Brown 1Participant @clivebrown1]

Couple of thoughts on the ebay items; I have a Boxford micrometer saddle stop, it's a fairly substantial chunk of metal which is clamped firmly to the lathe bed. It has to be so because the saddle can gve it quite a clunk at times,

I'm constantly moving it along the bed to suit the job in hand. The clamping mechanism needs to be robust and hard wearing.

The printed items, to me, don't look as if they'd be too rigid. OK for pressure from a DTI perhaps but not as a physical stop.

[Henry BrownParticipant @henrybrown95529]

Posted by IanT on 06/01/2021 12:50:21:

Posted by Henry Brown on 06/01/2021 12:13:22:

I might try to draw one in CAD to 3D print.

And if you did Henry – I might try to print one!

Regards,

IanT

LOL, my 3D CAD skills are very limited as are my 3D printing skills Ian, don't hold your breath! I did manage to draw up a small box for my tool tips (to go with the Multifix holders I downloaded from Thingiverse) to print yesterday…

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

Hi all

Did anyone get any further with this?

I know Im polishing a turd, but I would be interested in buying or making one of these for CL500M

It woudl be good to find 50mm long reach clocks also. I can find 2"

cheers

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

I made a clamp to mount onto the bed of my BL12-24, so that a Micrometer barrel could be mounted. It is used, when nrequired as a Saddle stop.

The mic is extended by the required travel and the stop clamped to the bed wsith bthe micrometer spindle against the Saddle. The Mic is then nretracted to the Zero position. AS the Saddle mapproaches the stop, power feed is disconnected, and the Saddle brought to the stop by hand feed.

In this way no mdamage is done, and the stop is not moved from it's position.

For a lathe with a dovetail bed, (Myford ML1,2, 3 ,4 , Clarke CL430 or CL500M ) a different form of mounting arrangement is required..

I'll try to put a picture into an album.

Howard

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

Posted by Danni Burns on 26/05/2021 12:54:39:

It would be good to find 50mm long reach clocks also. I can find 2".

Last time I went looking, Chronos (or maybe Linear Tools, their sister company) were sources for both languages of these.

You could always use a more standard 1" or 25mm travel indicator and a suitable 1" or 25mm spacer/gauge block/packer.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The longest plunger clocks that Arc Euro do in Metric is 0.01 mm x 30 mm travel. Otherwise, they have a 0.001" 2" travel imperial.one.

Range is important if using as a measuring instrument, rather than bringing a workpiece back to a Zero deflection condition.

For this, you are unlikely to need a long travel, and possibly the units don't really matter, since you are looking for Zero, or absolutely minimal divergence.

To measure long distances, you could use gauge blocks and a short travel clock, since you are only interested in stopping once the distance has been traveled, accurately.

(This is how distances are measured on Jig Borers!, or with Height Gauges and Height Micrometers. )

Howard

[Nigel McBurney 1Participant @nigelmcburney1]

dial gauges do not like soluble and other oils and the holder is usaually in direct llne with the chuck.Ok if only used wth dry cutting materials eg brass.A micrometer stop is better.

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

Thanks guys

I am just drawing now for Clarke bed. Im also in touch with the ebay manufacturer to have one made thereafter.

DC31K – Its not a bad idea as that would get me up and running without further expense (if I can find a spacer thingymabob), but Id still be limited to just that 1" or what ever (Im sure mine are not even that).

I have seen metric 50mm on ebay somewhere. I think its from Italy. Best part of £100 I think.

Nigel, Agreed clocks are delicate things so will need to be careful. Maybe I have found a use for my Lockdown condom stash. Obviously, dont try this guys if the mrs is partial to a nosey. I didnt know what a mic stop was until I googled. Looks like a plan also, BUT I still need the clamp.

Howard, Thanks again. Ive just seen the clamp pic. So thats a Mic stop – looks a belter. What Mic is required (special or internal)?

So I need to make sure mine is diverse enough to hold both.

Thats enough optioneering from me for one day. I think we've all deserved a glass of red.

cheers

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

If you are going to have one 3D printed, consider incorporating a slot and clamping screw so you could then add a 'rain deflector' made of clear perspex, which would assist with the issue pointed out by Nigel above.

https://www.linear-tools.com/product/2-dial-indicator-linear-code-dg-2s/

https://www.linear-tools.com/product/50mm-dial-indicator-linear-code-dg-50m/

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

DC31k – It's a good idea. But I'm sure sure of the type of fixing you mean (slot and clamping screw)? Can you please clarify (what and where it would fit) on below.

BTW there is a 2" on eBay now, by Chronos for £39.99 and a USED for £34; but I want 50mm.

If anyone has a used FOR SALE?

Cheers

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

 

I thought this was brilliant.

Edited By Danni Burns on 27/05/2021 13:06:22

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Have just posted a photo of the Micrometer saddle Stop that I made for my BL12-24 (Will fit a Taiwanese lathe such as the Warco BH600, 900 or Chester Craftsman ) into an Album, if anyone is interested.

There is also another Album showing a Saddle Stop made for a Myford ML4, but suitably upscaled can be used on any lathe with a dovetail bed. Adding a Micrometer barrel, or DTI should not be too difficult a modification to make.

Howard

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

Hi Guys

Below are my findings from Clarke CL500M

Ive even had a bash at designing a clamp with Splash-guard holding thingy (top hole of the Greyed out image).

Its tight down there, and that guard (see pink marker) will have to be cut down.

If anyone fancies printing me one, give me a shout, I'll gladly work with you to resolve any design issues.

cheers

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

Hi guys

I thought I would update on this, and hopefully save you some drinking time.

So, the clamp thing (in my opinion) waste of time. The Plastic printing guy (eBay – great guy and knows his stuff) doesn't think it will work but did provide an option with magnets BUT with his clock embedded.

Im not keen on a 30mm clock or buying another when I have a few old ones around.

Got me thinking about using a >100mm digital vernier instead of 50mm clock at silly money.

If I have to use magnets, then I can prob make myself easy – right?

Turns out YES. There's a YouTube clip somewhere of a US guy making one with iGaging depth gauge. Can buy in UK for >£50 but Amazon £40 imported from US.

So for magnets.

I did loads of research using couple of magnet sites. Nothing perfect.

Then, I went back on Amazon and found these (below) because they have a hole which I can attached to Saddle (Oil Guard thingymabob) and I hoped the vernier marking wheel would be sufficient for pulling the gauge. It does perfect.

Magnetpro 8 Pieces Strong Neodymium Rectangular Magnets 20 KG Force 40 x 13.5 x 5 mm with Countersunk Hole and Capsule, Household and Industrial Rare Earth Magnet with Mounting Screws

Also, I thought the 5mm height and 40mm length would be OK for under a base-plate: which is a 70mm piece of 40mm angle iron (maybe with some 5mm packing also to avoid any snatching when installing). Note that I'm using 5mm drills in pic for testing the height.

Sorry I haven't fitted these yet so cant show a finished pic.

Turns out I didnt need these specific (8 pack) magnets, but thought I would share that they are very good, so I'm sure I'll find a use for them – one day! I could have bought just 1 of something similar for under the base-plate. With hindsight I would get 1 magnet of similar quality and 5mm height, which is good height for hitting metal on the Saddle oil-guard.

Anyway,

I also found this magnet: Magnetpro 8 Pieces Strong Neodymium Rectangular Magnets 20 KG Force 40 x 13.5 x 5 mm with Countersunk Hole and Capsule, Household and Industrial Rare Earth Magnet with Mounting Screws

Turns out this has an M3 screw. But would this small thing really be strong enough?

Yep. Ive just tried it with steel ruler on my desk and it sticks like shit to a shovel. So, turns out adding an iGaging vernier is a piece of cake.

BUT as with all things with this Clarke lathe, its not all good news as it's going to be in the way of the Tailstock.

cheers all

Coming soon – How to make a Gin Still out of a Clarke CL500M

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

The CL500M (And the CL430 ) have Dovetail beds, (As do the Myford ML1.2, 3 and 4 ).

So it would be easy to make up a clamp which locks on to each side of the bed, with a tapping in one and a clearance hole inn the other so that tightening a knob would clamp the device securely to the bed. The front piece needs to have the means of carrying the measuring instrument (Drilled / reamed hole with tapping for screw to clamp the DTI )

The lower part of the front clamp needs to be high enough to clear the guard over the Leadscrew.

On my lathe, I made a clamp to fit the front prism way on the bed, suitably shaped, reamed, tapped to carry, in this case, a Micrometer barrel.

See my albums for pictures of the Saddle Stop for a Myford ML4, and the Micrometer Stop for my BL12 -24.

Howard

Edited By Howard Lewis on 18/06/2021 18:16:54

[Danni BurnsParticipant @danniburns84841]

Hi Howard

I guess your talking about your Tailstock stop type thing (below)?

Could do, Yes.

I just feel its a bit over-engineered/extreme and would be a pain to remove.

BTW for a Tailstock stop I would drill/tap into lathe bed and use a Bolt or make a Threaded pin.

I guess time, materials and machines/Tools to hand will influence how we design things.

I will probably use Plastic Angle section instead of steel.

cheers

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Hi Danni.

NOT a stop for the Tailstock, but for the Saddle.

That one was made for a Myford ML4, but there is no reason why the dimensions cannot be amended to suit another dovetail bed lathe, such as the CL430, or CL500M

The design can be amended to carry a DTI, or could be drilled and tapped, say 40 tpi, so that a 40 tpi threaded setscrew could be used to set the distance that the Saddle can travel before hitting the stop.

My Micrometer stop (See another of my Albums ) is used in this way.. The Micrometer barrel is extended to the required travel, and the assembly is clamped to the lathe bed, with the micrometer stem in contact with the Saddle.

The micrometer stem is then withdrawn (The Micrometer barrel is set so that the Zero coincides with the front surface of the clamp ) When the Saddle contacts the face of the clamp, the Saddle has travelled the set distance.

I always traverse the Saddle, the last few thou by hand, rather than risk a power feed forcing the stop along the bed, leading to an inaccurate result.

Howard

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