Building a hand drill press

[Steve WanParticipant @stevewan33894]

Hi Guys, Ian, Nigel and Nick

 

I found this youtube, this is what I called-Classic drilling! Definately this will be my next project after my mill project. Will combine my sliding plates drilling design with auto-feeding just like the pawl and ratchet in the video…cool!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyQCGVU-CGw

 

In case, anyone is curious about my mill project, visit the photo section-Steve’s Workshop.

 

This links to Classic German’s hand drill in the 1930s.

 

http://www.wkfinetools.com/hUS-borTools/zChuck/metabo.htm

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

Edited By Steve Wan on 09/05/2011 11:28:50

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

I’v got two drill stands, one Black & Dekker, and a Wolf cub combined drill stand and wood lathe, one I want to convert for a tapping rig, the other to take a two speed breast drill, I would like to fit a flywheel, but I’ll have to think about that. Ian S C

[Lawrie Alush-JaggsParticipant @lawriealush-jaggs50843]

Hi Steve

 

If you are interested and want to pay the freight, I can let you have this one for about $40.00 AUD

 

I bought it for my son to clean up and paint several years ago. Unfortuneatly he is not as interested as I thought and I am not either. I paid $60.00AUD for it.

Weight is about 10KG

Lawrie

I should mention though that it has a chuck to take square shank drill bits and so would require the fitting of a three jaw chuck.

Edited By Lawrie Alush-Jaggs on 09/05/2011 12:52:49

[Steve WanParticipant @stevewan33894]

Hi Lawrie

 

Thanks for the offer?

Before I decide, can I ask you some queries?

 

1) What’s the diameter of the verticle stand that’s attach to the base?

2) Does this comes with auto-feeding? Or any missing parts above the feed hand wheel? Looks like the pawl and ratchet is missing…

3) Can the main spindle be taken apart as corrosion may marry the joints.

4) Are you residing in Australia?

 

Steve

 

 

[Lawrie Alush-JaggsParticipant @lawriealush-jaggs50843]

Hi Steve

 

The pipe on which everything hangs is a peice of one inch water pipe. This machine ws designed to be shipped in bits and then assembled by the purchaser using whatever length of pipe he thought correct. So if you wanted it to drill something a metre long, all you have to do is change the peice of pipe.

It is designed to be used either as a bench drill or can be mounted on a post as many were.

There is no ratchet and pawl mechanism with this one and nothing is missing. The feed screw is a bit tight, as I said, I haven’t cleaned it up at all since purchase.

the paint is about %45 but there is very little rust on it. Most of the gunk you can see is saw dust. I have just finished building a bed for my daughter and quite a lot of the workshop is still delightfully coated in dust.

It does not autofeed. You turn the wheel with your right hand and adjust the feed wheel which is the round bit at the top. You get about 2 1/2 inches of feed.

The whole thing can be taken apart quite easily though you may have to send off to the nineteen century for a spanner to fit the bolt heads.

Yes, I am in Australia, Melbourne.

Cleaning it up would take about half a day and several days of waiting for the paint to dry at which time you will have a handsome and functional vintage post mounted drill.

[Steve WanParticipant @stevewan33894]

Hi Lawrie

 

Thank you for the kind help of selling your Post Drill…sorry I have to decline your offer as this morning I got the confirmed order of the 4 gears for my hand bench drill project.

 

Anyway, I’m sure others here will be interested. Since you did use for making bed for your daughther, I’m sure there’re more use of it later

 

Steve

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Steve, I have dismantled my 2 speed auto drill this afternoon, and will clean all the parts in my small parts cleaner tomorrow and take some photos of them.

 

In the meantime I’ll tease you with a photo of another auto-feed drill that originated on the other side of our western lake, Philadelphia to be more precise.

 

I was given this one several years ago for doing a simple 5 minuite job.

 

 

One like this, in much the same condition sold on eBay in Illinois for $250 just a while ago. If you Google Yankee drill press 1005, you should be able to view it, it’s five or six down on the results page.

 

Regards Nick.

 

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 11/05/2011 20:18:31

[Steve WanParticipant @stevewan33894]

Hi Nick

 

Thanks so much for your kind help! I will examine those photos you mentioned. What do you think of Lawrie’s Post Drill? It comes with a manual feeding just like the photo below on the left.

 

I have 2 options in my hand drill press design either to go with manual feed or auto. Yet to see and understand your cleanup parts whether I could make one or simply using back my compound slide method.

 

Also heard that smaller Post drill runs by friction feeding?

That’s new to me.

 

Steve

 

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Steve, I have uploaded photos of the drill head that I dismantled and cleaned yesterday. They are in the album called 2 Speed Auto Hand Drill. I have included a photo of E.J. Slzlumper’s design which I made for a drill of the same principle some years ago.

 

The drill spindle on this type of auto feed machine, is driven down onto the work, by the thread at the top of the drilling spindle, against a threaded portion inside the fly wheel shaft. The fly wheel remains stationary when there is no feedback pressure on the drilling spindle. Once the twist drill engages onto the work piece, feedback pressure increases the friction between the threaded portion of the drilling spindle and the thread inside the fly wheel shaft. This will start to rotate the fly wheel and most of the downward force on the drilling spindle is cancelled out. The amount of cancelling out can be reduced by increasing the pressure on the ball that acts on the fly wheel shaft by screwing in the pressure screw, thus increasing the amount of cut on the twist drill. If you stop the drilling action before completing the hole being drilled, the fly wheel will continue to rotate for a few revs, (depending on the amount of pressure on the adjusting screw) and lift the drilling spindle off the work piece.

 

One downside to this principle, is that the amount of friction on the threaded portion of the drilling spindle is not quite great enough to start the fly wheel rotating, and thus reducing the downward force on the drilling spindle when using the smaller twist drills and the result is that they break, this is what prompted E.J. Szlumper to come up with his design after reading letters in ME about others having this problem with this type of machine.

 

Regards Nick.

[Steve WanParticipant @stevewan33894]

Hi Nick

Wow!!! Just like winning the lottery! Nick I’m ever grateful for the comprehensive info you have given…I have printed all your photos and notes. Will sit down, figure out step by step. Then decide whether I can adapt your auto-feed (most prefered) or my compound slide feed method. My order of 2 speed gears will be in by next week. Yet to figure out your last improved spring and pillar design whether the spring coil is fixed to the hex bar or the base of the fly wheel? The hex bar is pushing downwards of the main spindle? Why is the hex bar given so much allowance?

Also I like to share with you that the Germans were good at making breast drills in the 1930s, some came with a flywheel in-built inside, given more torque just amazing!

Steve

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Steve, apologies if I’ve confused you, but the hex rod is screwed into the top of the drilling spindle in place of the original stop screw, and travels down/up with it. This hex rod passes through a clutch plate, which is a sliding fit, the plate being driven by the hex rod. The cluch plate is nipped between the bottom plate which sits on top of the fly wheel boss with a distance piece to clear all protrusions and the top of the drilling spindle when in the fully up position, and the pressure plate which is what the spring is pressing onto.

 

Below is a photo of the hex rod and clutch plate, and a simple sketch of the assembly. The spring and adjusting screws/rods are omitted from the sketch. A hex rod was not specified in the original article, but was left to ones own choice, based on the author’s own construction due to the number of different styles of this type of drill.

 

 

Hope this is not to difficult to understand, as its only a quick rough and ready sketch.

 

Regards Nick.

[Steve WanParticipant @stevewan33894]

Hi Nick

 

Many thanks for more info of the complete design of this machine! I think I discovered the basic function. I was confused by the frictional drive but infact the spinning drill spindle is based on 2 different threads used. The drilling action turns clockwise while the thread above the spindle and the flywheel turns anti-clockwise. Hence it will push the sliding drill spindle down when it engages the thread whether the drill did touch the job or not. The free turns of the flywheel before and after the cranking stops is due to backlash of the course thread.

 

The pressure of the improved spring plate above is to cut done the backlash of the flywheel. Hence the feeding action is promoted by the torgue of the weight of the flywheel and feed rate control by the pressure nut. I think one of the pic you did not fasten the lock nut of the flywheel. I think is hard to offset the gears axis if I were to make one. I noticed the biggest bevel gears was custom-made with teeth tilted so it can take the smaller bevel gear below.

 

Steve

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi Steve, I’m not sure that you have totally understood the action of the feed mechanism, as there is only the one thread on the drilling spindle that is engaged into the fly wheel at all times. When the fly wheel is rotating, it is in the same direction as the drilling spindle. The drilling spindle is only fed down when the fly wheel is not rotating, or is rotating at a slower speed than the drilling spindle. The slower the fly wheel turns, the greater the feed is on the drilling spindle. The fly wheel will continue to spin briefly after cranking stops, due to the inertia built up in it while in rotation.

 

Did you read the explanations below each picture in my album, the other thread that you may be mistaken to contribute to the feed mechanism, is probably the small stop screw in the top of the spindle with the left hand thread. This only stops the spindle from dropping out of the machine, and serves no other purpose.

 

The feed rate is controlled by the pressure screw by slowing the fly wheel down with respect to the drilling spindle. I did not put the lock nut and bottom bearing on the fly wheel, as I’ve only put it together loosely for the photo, as I will be repainting it before finally reassembling completely, with new pins to hold the gears in place on there own spindles.

 

Regards Nick.

[Steve WanParticipant @stevewan33894]

Hi Nick

 

Thanks so much! Perhaps I need to read more closely at your written texts. If I could find a youtube of this working machine will be great! Will come back to you again.

 

Hope you enjoy fully this coming Harrogate ME show! Pity I’m no where close to this place…

 

Steve

[Steve WanParticipant @stevewan33894]

Hi Nick (Nicholas Farr)

 

Good News! I bought all the necessary gears to build a 2 speeds hand crank-hand drill. But will prefers using a screw hand feed instead of the auto-feeding you had shown as it’s too complicated to make…sorry to disappoint you.

 

I’m ever grateful for your extensive photos shots which had guided me. Wonder possible you pte email me your home address so that I could send you a ‘Thank you Card’.

 

My email: stewan@gmail.com

 

I hear from you,

Steve

[Author]

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