Britannia buffer beam

[Clive HaynesParticipant @clivehaynes74488]

Hi I am building a brit and I note that the real thing and models I've seen has rows of rivets in the buffer beam but the drawings do not show this.

To copy the real thing is it best to put short rivets in and loctite them?

Clive

[Clive HaynesParticipant @clivehaynes74488]

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Clive Haynes on 27/02/2017 14:24:37:

To copy the real thing is it best to put short rivets in and loctite them?

Not quite. Put short rivets in and don't tell anyone you riveted them in.

Neil

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

A single centre punch blow in the back of the rivit is often enough to expand it in the hole, I did all the dummy ones on my Fowler hornplates and throatplate that way. But they are subject to more heat than a buffer beam.

[Phil H1Participant @philh196021]

Does anyone have a suggestion for adding a similar line of rivets if the back of the buffer beam is blind e.g., the correct position for a line of rivets might enter the web of the steel angle that is normally specified for engine buffer beams. I guess Loctite might be the only way to do it?

Phil H

[julian atkinsParticipant @julianatkins58923]

Hi Phil,

If the rivet heads are only cosmetic it is quite usual to loctite the shanks in place. This also hopefully answers Clive's point.

Clive's buffer beams are the least of his worries with the LBSC 3.5"g Brit design and quite superficial. There are far more substantial problems with the motion plate assembly and boiler design and much else besides!

Cheers,

Julian

[Clive HaynesParticipant @clivehaynes74488]

Hi Julian,

thanks for that reply, I guessed loctite might be the best solution.

It does however seem that I have problems ahead.

Clive

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